Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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SVK, even before I read the replies I was going to say I just replace it when it starts to look worn.

Actually, for the cost of it, I got a whole new rope and puller and brought the old stuff up to the cabin for use up there. No power lines or houses to worry about up there!

Generally, things break when you either pull too hard, or the tree starts to move in the wrong direction. When you get a feel for how tight to make this thing, nothing it going to snap, and if you tied it high enough (unless there is a real big lean the wrong way) this stuff just pulls if over nicely. When you multiply the pull force with the leverage, it will move a heck of a big tree.

Just never cut through your hinge, and if your tree is dead double or triple rope it so you are not relying on your hinge.

The weakest link is the rope sliding through the puller, so if I'm worried about it, I wrap the rope a few times around after I make it tight.

Couple it with a pulley that lets you work angles and there is not much it won't do.

Congrats on the Thread Clint, please chime in if you are out there, I like seeing your Avatar!
 
Groan. After last year I told the local 'middle-aged do-gooders club' of which Cowgirl is secretary that I wasn't going to build another community bonfire (I had done three, but they pizzed me off last year at which point I retired from bonfire making). So they had 12 months to get themselves organised for this year and it is scheduled for Saturday after next. Last week, Cowgirl started getting up in the mornings before me and this only ever happens when she's worried about something. Sure enough, they have organised everything they needed for the bonfire night except the actual bonfire. The only good news is that they had talked the local arborist into delivering about four cubes of green peppermint six months ago which can be used for the bonfire core. I started cutting it into manageable pieces and lumping it down to the site.

7th May 1.jpg

I haven't told Cowgirl what the 'fee' will be yet, but you can be certain it will be plenty :surprised3: :heart: :sweet:.
 
Groan. After last year I told the local 'middle-aged do-gooders club' of which Cowgirl is secretary that I wasn't going to build another community bonfire (I had done three, but they pizzed me off last year at which point I retired from bonfire making). So they had 12 months to get themselves organised for this year and it is scheduled for Saturday after next. Last week, Cowgirl started getting up in the mornings before me and this only ever happens when she's worried about something. Sure enough, they have organised everything they needed for the bonfire night except the actual bonfire. The only good news is that they had talked the local arborist into delivering about four cubes of green peppermint six months ago which can be used for the bonfire core. I started cutting it into manageable pieces and lumping it down to the site.

View attachment 734481

I haven't told Cowgirl what the 'fee' will be yet, but you can be certain it will be plenty of :cheers::drinking::cheers::drinking: :surprised3: .
Whay I'm thinkin cowboy.:)
 
If it’s a paying job I totally understand reinvesting a portion of the profits into equipment. Should be good for many years.

@Philbert @MustangMike do rope systems have an expiration date? Wondering how long those ropes are good for if they are kept out of the sun and elements.
That's what I'm saying, I've been in the reinvestment stage for a long time, I don't think it ends:crazy2:. It should be good for many yrs of business use as well as personal use :clap:.
So what I can tell, there is no date, it is all based on visual inspection. Makes sense, I think.
Visual inspection is a portion of it also passing the ropes through your hand and feeling for defects is another part of it. You can feel a piece that has been over-stretched when pulling it through your hands very quick.
When snatch blocks, pulleys, etc are involved I always worry about them failing, but I suppose if you are using new equipment and not hand me downs they are just as strong as the rest of the system.
Just as with most everything there are way more accidents that happen because of human failure vs mechanical :rare2:. I do like to know where this type of equipment has been and what kind of forces have been put on them though, it's probably more a feeling of control even when I could very easily make a mistake myself :omg:.
Tractel Tirfor for the win !!!
https://www.tractel.com/ca/series.php?id_serie=47

And Spruce on page 2000 :)
I always forget about that one :).
Have you used any of them, they move very slow from what I see in the specs, can you imagine one on a double line :D.
 
SVK, even before I read the replies I was going to say I just replace it when it starts to look worn.

Actually, for the cost of it, I got a whole new rope and puller and brought the old stuff up to the cabin for use up there. No power lines or houses to worry about up there!

Generally, things break when you either pull too hard, or the tree starts to move in the wrong direction. When you get a feel for how tight to make this thing, nothing it going to snap, and if you tied it high enough (unless there is a real big lean the wrong way) this stuff just pulls if over nicely. When you multiply the pull force with the leverage, it will move a heck of a big tree.

Just never cut through your hinge, and if your tree is dead double or triple rope it so you are not relying on your hinge.

The weakest link is the rope sliding through the puller, so if I'm worried about it, I wrap the rope a few times around after I make it tight.

Couple it with a pulley that lets you work angles and there is not much it won't do.

Congrats on the Thread Clint, please chime in if you are out there, I like seeing your Avatar!
Which ones do you have Mike, Masdaam's.
It's amazing what a little pulling power can do, it's a real game changer for the $.

One bit of caution I'd like to make for guys with little experience; if you are trying to pull a tree and want it to fall against it's natural lean you should pull 180 degrees against the lean(unless your trying to swing it which is another topic), if you pull to one side or the other the hinge can break and the tree will fall in an unintended direction, ask me how I know :dumb::lol:.
 
Yes, and if the lean is too the side, tie an additional rope to the other side if it is important.

Know your trees, and what you can do, different types of grain act differently. If I need to pull a bit to the side, leave the high side of the hinge a bit thicker and force the tree over with wedges before it goes on it's own. You can also insert a block on the low side of the wedge, and make extra relief cuts under the high side, but that gets tricky!
 
One bit of caution I'd like to make for guys with little experience; if you are trying to pull a tree and want it to fall against it's natural lean you should pull 180 degrees against the lean(unless your trying to swing it which is another topic), if you pull to one side or the other the hinge can break and the tree will fall in an unintended direction, ask me how I know :dumb::lol:.
Yes, yes, and yes. Yes
 
My lunch break scrounging, the fun fact is that I work in suit, I always carry spare clothes as there's no wrong time for chainsaw work !! The other funny fact is that the log was 10fts long and about 20-24" diameter, so too big and heavy to put them in the pickup bed and not enough time to noodle them. Plus I only had my small 026 in the truck so noodling would have take me forever. So I let the wood there.:dumb: At least I smell a bit of 2 strokes.

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IMG_2239.JPG
 
I have had enough side leaners break the hinge to know never to try it. Even on a species of tree that will hold it's hinge, a decent side lean will still pull the tree 15-30 degrees off the intended fall. In the woods that may end up causing a hanger or damaging a healthy tree. In a yard that means broken stuff.
 
My mate pulled the new (1.5hrs of running time) Husky 460 rancher apart and both the crank bearings had callapsed! It hasn't been run hot or no or low oil (no signs of that at all) not sure why they'd fail so early but that's what's happened.:oops:
New like you guys bought it from the dealer? Or new being a previous owner said they did not run it?

Regardless something major was wrong there. A straight gassed saw would sieze long before the bearings would fail.
 
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