New chainsaw / Good used chainsaw?

[Bg357]

I have a question that I’ve been mulling for awhile...
I read people on the forums complaining about the new saws with their electronics and EPA requirements and so forth, and it makes ya think you shouldn’t buy a new saw, because they’re a pain, hard to work on, etc... not to mention the expense of a new saw that’s worth having.

On the other hand, buying a used saw is whole other barrel of problems. So I’m wondering, what would y’all recommend to a relative novice, who doesn’t want to have to rebuild/tinker with an old saw, but really doesn’t want to spend $5-700 on a new saw.

So far, I’ve gone the used route, and it hasn’t gone that swell, although I haven’t spent a lot of money either. I started with an old Husky 61 that had problems. I now have a Stihl 026 and an Echo CS670. I use the Stihl almost exclusively, but it’s not right. My Dad’s Husky 455 will cut circles around it all day long. I’m not a saw mechanic, and don’t want to waste money having someone else work on it. The Echo starts easy and runs great, but just won’t cut. I think it may have an oiler problem, but again, I’m not sure.

I’m not asking for help troubleshooting my saws, just looking for opinions on used saws vs. new saws. Should I bite the bullet and buy a new saw, keep looking for an older/simpler saw in good condition, or spend the money to fix what I have?

If it plays into your answer, I cut a few cord a year, less than five. Cutting Red Fir, Tamarack, Lodgepole, from the smallest up to an occasional 30” tree. Thanks for the advice.


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[ammoaddict]

All three of those are good saws, depending on what's wrong with them you would probably come out cheaper to fix them. I might be interested in the 61 should you decide to part with it.

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[Nathan Graff]

I got a few machines for cheap that 'weren't running right'. I got a Stihl FS130 brush cutter for cheap that was throwing sparks, bogging down, not reving up properly, etc. It just required some basic maintenance done. I burned out the spark arrestor screen (one of the biggest problems and possibly relevant to your issue), adjusted the valves which were way out by about 3/32" (not relevant to your problem), adjusted the spark plug gap (maybe relevant to your issue), cleaned out the carb (didn't even need a new kit, just rinsed out with carb cleaner, and that's possibly relevant to your issue), and adjusted the carb (also possibly relevant to your issue). These are all maintenance things. The inside of the engine was all carboned up, so I ran it hard off and on, and ran steam into the intake. That cleaned up the piston and cylinder. (Likely not relevant to your issue) It works like a champ now.

I have found that a bunch of people have sold things cheap that just required minor maintenance to get running properly. On your Stihl 026, have you checked to see if the spark arrestor screen is clear? Have you adjusted the carb on it? Have you cleaned up the carb if the saw is running poorly? Have you checked the spark plug? Might you have cracked fuel lines? On the Echo, have you replaced the oiler filter? Have you sharpened the chains and filed the rakers/depth guages on your saws?

I got a very desirable and hard to come by chainsaw for less than a quarter of market value because the guy thought it wouldn't cut. He was right. It wouldn't cut through hot butter. The chain was so dull that it wouldn't cut anything. I sharpened the chain, and filed the rakers using Stihls 2 in 1 file, and it cuts like a crazy thing now. It's a small saw, and in stuff up to 6-8", it'll outcut my bigger saw.

This might help you with the carb.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Reading between the lines, it sounds like OP needs a Stihl 026 PRO with an 16" or 18" bar that runs well. Like this one, for instance:

 

[Totembear]

Well, here I go...there are some new saws out there that will cut what you need for slightly under $500 (Echo 590 I think) but new saws get old some day. You dont want to waste money for somebody to work on your equipment? Then my suggestion to you is to LEARN how to work on your own stuff, because that way you're not paying somebody else to do it. Everybody started out that way. The 026 is a good saw, it like all other saws require maintenence. And, if you learn to work on them, you can pick up good deals from the less fortunate unknowing homeowner. Sometimes real good deals. Or you can spend more money buying new stuff or complaining when the stuff you got doesnt run right. Why not challenge yourself and try to at least master the basics of maintenence. Not splitting cases but looking at pistons, mufflers, pressure testing the saw, seeing if the saw oils, rebuilding carbs, etc. Its not hard to do if you want to do it. If you run into something you dont know, ask!! I'm sure somebody will have an answer for you. If you dont, put your saws up for sale in the classifieds and I am sure somebody will buy it for cheap. My 2 cents.

 

[Bg357]

Thanks for the suggestions. I’ve put new chain on both, so that potential issue has been eliminated. I’ve replaced the bar on the Stihl, so it shouldn’t have any problem there. The Echo has the original Echo bar, and it looks fine to me, so I haven’t replaced it. I didn’t know the Echo had an oiler filter, where would that be? The Echo has a manual assist oiler button. On the first push, it feels like the resistance you would expect pumping oil, but subsequent pushes have very little resistance, like maybe nothing is happening. I don’t know if that means anything, but it might be significant.

I have tried to adjust both carbs. The Echo has limiters and I notice very little difference in the whole range of adjustment. I’ve read some places that you have to remove the limiters to really get maximum performance out of the Echo, but I don’t feel very comfortable adjusting the top end. I’ve watched several videos on it, but I have a hard time hearing the top setting, maybe I’m deaf... [emoji849] The consequences of getting it wrong may be holding me back.

I’ve removed the spark arrestors from both saws, but haven’t done any other muffler mods to reduce restriction. Also replaced the spark plug on both.

I feel something is wrong with the Stihl because I’ve never been able to adjust the carb to the point where I feel it’s running properly. It likes to bog off idle, or idle high (and the idle screw has little effect). It also will idle fine but want to die as soon as I pick it up or put the bar to wood. It seems to “know” when it’s being picked up or set down and it’s behavior changes. That seems odd to me. I’ve adjusted the carb countless times and somewhat resolved one or another of these issues, but getting everything right has been illusive.

I have a hard time making straight cuts with the Stihl, which seems utterly ridiculous, but it’s just a fact. I think the A/V parts might be worn out, causing the handle and bar to misalign too easily. Is that possible? I’ve experienced this with a brand new chain, so it’s unlikely to be poor sharpening, also a skill I’ve failed to master... [emoji2955]




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[old CB]

Good question. But it's a tough call.

If you're not up for diagnosing and treating issues on your saw(s), then you're a good candidate for buying new and leaving those matters to your local saw shop or neighborhood mechanic. But only if you have a competent, reliable saw shop or mechanic. In some places you might have to travel an hour or two to find such folks. The auto-tune gizmos can be a great help or a giant headache, but mileage varies between this saw or buyer and the next.

An older model saw--a 346xp, 359, or 372xp, for us Husqy fans, or a 44-something or 66-something for Stihl people--can be bought for less money. And will serve like an '85 Ford F150, somewhat bulletproof as long as you get a good proven unit to start with and you're careful to maintain it. A Makita 6400 that's still healthy and strong might turn up after being sold from a Home Depot rental center. Echo or Dolmar or other brands have some great running machines. But you might need luck or someone knowledgeable to guide you toward the right one. If the stars align right and you find someone honest who's selling one of these babies at a reasonable price (and the right someone might advise you after the sale), these older units can be golden. There are some good saws for sale in the trading post section of this site that can be good values if you can be confident in the seller.

Furthermore, for what you're cutting, you could do well with one of the better homeowner saws. A Husqvarna 455/60 rancher or Stihl homeowner saw could serve, as your use is not terribly demanding. The Poulan 5020 gets good reviews for a mid-range homeowner saw.

Probably the best thing you can do before buying or running ANY saw is to learn some basic mechanical skills--tuning, etc.--or find a friend or brother-in-law who can help you out. It'll save you lots of headaches over simple things. 'Cuz simple troubles almost always intrude when you run saws.

 

[Nathan Graff]

There are screens inside the carb that could be plugged on the Stihl. That's as simple as taking the carb off, taking the plate off, and scraping out with a piece of wire. I can't remember if it's a plate with 4 screws or the plate with one screw. Take that plate off, clean out the screen, reassemble, and give it another go. Probably have to retune the saw.

Also check the fuel filter and the fuel lines. It's like a 30 min job to replace.

AV can go bad on any saw, and is quite likely not expensive to fix.

Have you checked your air filter?

On the Echo, the bar oil tank should have a filter on the inside of the tank. It may be plugged.

 

[Snowchaser]

Where are you at in N idaho? I am west of Sandpoint about 15 minutes in the wrenco loop area. Would be happy to check them out for you.

 

[Bg357]

There are screens inside the carb that could be plugged on the Stihl. That's as simple as taking the carb off, taking the plate off, and scraping out with a piece of wire. I can't remember if it's a plate with 4 screws or the plate with one screw. Take that plate off, clean out the screen, reassemble, and give it another go. Probably have to retune the saw.

Also check the fuel filter and the fuel lines. It's like a 30 min job to replace.

AV can go bad on any saw, and is quite likely not expensive to fix.

Have you checked your air filter?

On the Echo, the bar oil tank should have a filter on the inside of the tank. It may be plugged.

Is the filter on the end of a pickup line like the fuel filter?

I’ve checked and cleaned the air filter regularly. It’s a felt covered job that looks like it’s seen better days. It’s $20-30 for a new one and it seems alright, so I haven’t replaced it.

Regarding the Echo not cutting, what I mean by that is it will cut pretty well as you start into the cut, but once you’re deep into a log, it just doesn’t cut. It’s not bogging down, you can stop it with too much pressure, but that’s not what’s happening. And this is with a relatively new, sharp chain. When this happens, and I pull it out of the cut, the bar seems pretty hot, which is why I suspected an oiler issue. I pump the manual oiler in the cut too, but it doesn’t make any difference. It’ll fling oil off the bar when testing it though, so that puzzles me.


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[Bg357]

Where are you at in N idaho? I am west of Sandpoint about 15 minutes in the wrenco loop area. Would be happy to check them out for you.

That’s nice of you to offer. I’m just south of Spirit Lake, so not too far from you.

Do you know Jason Rasor from the NI wood cutters Facebook group? He’s been highly recommended by members of that group, but I’ve not met up with him yet. He’s aways north of Sandpoint.


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[Nathan Graff]

I'd guess the clutch in the Echo. If there's an oiler filter, it should be on the end of the pickup line.

 

[Snowchaser]

I have not. My name is jason as well though. Didnt know about the ni woodcutters either, but i dont facebook.

 

[Huskvarna hotellgäst]

Here in Australia, my general advice to anyone who can use a chainsaw properly but has no interest in any of that technical/repair mumbo jumbo is to get a new saw from a retailer that gives a replacement warranty (e.g. 51cc Ryobi for about USD200 with 2 yr warranty)
One of two things will happen.
Either the person will keep taking it back if something goes wrong - or - they'll get to like the saw and be motivated to actually fix things that might need attention rather than give back their "toy".

 

[rmh3481]

Want to sell the Echo?

 

[Colt Marlington]

After buying three brand new saws (all at below msrp), I started buying used ones when I found a deal. Some were great runners with no issues, and some were just so cheap that I figured they'd be interesting to play around with or just to decorate the shelves.

To start, I'd buy something new or in near new condition to have something dependable without working on it.
And a couple of extra new chains along with the appropriate files.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Going back to the original thread title, here is one of my favorite used saws:

A simple adapter allows this Echo CS-670 it to run Stihl bars. It's a Heckuva saw.

 

[Bg357]

Going back to the original thread title, here is one of my favorite used saws:

A simple adapter allows this Echo CS-670 it to run Stihl bars. It's a Heckuva saw.

I would love to say it’s one of my favorite saws, but something’s not right with it, and I haven’t been able to figure out what it is. Its great how it consistently starts easy, and it sounds great too, but when it won’t cut wood, it kinda defeats the whole purpose.

When something is wrong with my car or truck, and I can’t figure it out, I take it to my mechanic. I have enough invested, that it makes sense to spend the money to find out what’s wrong and get it fixed. I also usually learn something in the process that I can apply down the road.
I have a really hard time with these saws, because I have so little invested, I don’t want to throw money away trying to find out what’s wrong with them, especially when I don’t know a trustworthy saw mechanic. I could really be throwing money away if I go to the wrong person, and quickly spend more than I have invested in the whole mess.
So I fiddle with them myself, replacing this or that, hoping I’ll stumble onto whatever the problem is, but that’s a frustrating endeavor when nothing seems to help.

Even more frustrating, I use one of my Dad’s saws occasionally and am suddenly and acutely aware of the total crap I’m dealing with... [emoji2957] He’s got a Husky 181 he bought used 30yrs ago. The logger he got it from said it was worn out and he was done with it. [emoji15] He’s used that saw a lot over the years, and it still cuts like a raped ape! And it’s not like he’s a wonder with saws, I’ve possibly learned more about saws from this forum than he even knows. Either he’s the luckiest guy to ever own a saw, or I’m the unluckiest, I’m not quite sure which...



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[rupedoggy]

Your bars are shot. Wiggle the chain in the slot. See how they move side to side. Not good and they will either cut a circle or stop half way through. The rails may be uneven also and that only makes things worse.

 

[Bg357]

Your bars are shot. Wiggle the chain in the slot. See how they move side to side. Not good and they will either cut a circle or stop half way through. The rails may be uneven also and that only makes things worse.

Thanks for the suggestion; I'll take a look at that. I have a new bar on the Stihl, so I wouldn't think that's a problem there, but maybe the Echo. Speaking of bars, what brands are a good value, considering moderate use? Are there one's to avoid?
'Wood Doctor' posted earlier about using an adapter to mount Stihl bars on the Echo. Why would you want to do that? Are Stihl bars really great, or is it just the advantage of compatibility with other saws?