What do you think about my slab stacking frame?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Mar 25, 2017
Messages
934
Reaction score
1,756
Location
Portland OR
It’s on some gravel. I was thinking about putting sand under the blocks to be more stable on the 1.250 gravel. It’s spread 2’ in between the 4x4’s here but I’m going to get another and do about 16” or so. There 4’ wide. And I got some 6 mill plastic I wanna lay down or that may not be needed on gravel? I’m going to do 2 slabs wide on this frame.Got this stuff and about 10 more slabs or more to stack FB92B60A-2394-4912-9B79-85E69A41375F.jpeg 07917526-B585-40DF-9399-8EACF1043986.jpeg
 
If you put the holes in the block the other way they would not sink in as much. Maybe does not matter for what you describe being under it. Are those all called slabs some look more like blocks to me. When one makes lumber one is supposed to not even have bark on the stickers. I do not do slabs but wouldn't it be desirable to get them up to insect killing temperature at least before stacking? At some thickness a slab must be like a log as to the insects getting in under the bark.
 
Moto, the blocks should be stronger that way, in a load bearing sense, Franny's comment was regarding settling, with the holes in the blocks horizontal, you will have greater surface area against the ground, with better support, reducing settling.

You will have to evaluate, what is more important in your case, load bearing strength, or load bearing surface area.

Being a Portland Native myself, I know that load bearing surface area CAN be a serious concern in (Y)our area.


Doug :cheers:
 
Why not go all the way and do this?
IMG_7527s.jpg

The log is a small Swamp Sheoak (Obesa Casurina) noted for "small log pretzeling" which is why I used this clamping frame. As the wood dries the wing nuts can be tightened - didn't help much - I think I got 2 reasonable boards out of it. The main reason was probably that I kept the top cut of the log - next time I did it I ditched that and made sure it was contacting across the wider board.
 
That’s a good idea bob! I’ll try it this way first. This walnut is cracking kinda bad but only on the side I hand planed it. Maybe the high and low spots are acting like a stress riser and that’s what I figured would happen but maybe it doesn’t have to do with it, it’s still flat tho, some of my stuff warped so I tossed it somewhere else.

Are people into wood if it has some decent checking like this?C611E67F-E286-44E5-83BE-74DF8F18C632.jpeg 0A1A7654-FCA8-4B32-B485-3D11D5444BAA.jpegBF236F96-F4CE-441B-ACA9-654DA508D31B.jpeg1DEDD1B1-57B5-4436-82DF-07BACBFF667C.jpeg
 
And the blocks did get filled with concrete. Had sun for about 2 weeks, now says a week of rain. I’d like this tarp up all the time anyways to give me more shade. Might put some concrete in a bucket with a metal pole coming out of it to hold the rope for the tarp. It’s got some 2x4’s under the tarp E36A76A3-64C7-4DDB-9EC0-9372BC699D3F.jpegFDCF91F6-31AD-4591-AE86-93117FBB4865.jpeg
 
That’s a good idea bob! I’ll try it this way first. This walnut is cracking kinda bad but only on the side I hand planed it. Maybe the high and low spots are acting like a stress riser and that’s what I figured would happen but maybe it doesn’t have to do with it, it’s still flat tho, some of my stuff warped so I tossed it somewhere else.

Are people into wood if it has some decent checking like this?View attachment 735820 View attachment 735821View attachment 735822View attachment 735823
You can fill those cracks maybe to hide the crack.
Or build a stream/river style blank with it by filling in the cracks with a coloured epoxy resin after it dries fully.
Or use a router to mill out the crack and then fill in with a beautiful epoxy.
I saw some beautiful tables made this way.
 
Why not go all the way and do this?
View attachment 735187

The log is a small Swamp Sheoak (Obesa Casurina) noted for "small log pretzeling" which is why I used this clamping frame. As the wood dries the wing nuts can be tightened - didn't help much - I think I got 2 reasonable boards out of it. The main reason was probably that I kept the top cut of the log - next time I did it I ditched that and made sure it was contacting across the wider board.
Great idea Bob. Good idea about taking out the rounded slabs too.
Maybe pick the best slabs and then lock them nice and flat in your contraption and just put the lesser slabs in another stack.
I still have 5 Red Oak logs to mill. Each is about 5-10' long and about 16"-24" diameter.
I will use that idea to make one or two of my own slab holders.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top