Dafydd Hewes
New Member
I have a Stihl MS 310 with a 20” bar. Am looking to find out what chain I can buy, what the specs should be? Am looking to buy a couple of skip chains. Can someone point me to the correct chain? tx
Stihl MS 310 Skip Chain Question
- Thread starter Dafydd Hewes
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jnance
ArboristSite Member
Should be stamped in the side of the bar. If it’s still has the stihl bar. Contact baileys or on of the other site Sponsors they can make you skip chain.
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Skip chain on a bar that short will only leave you a couple teeth. I've used my MS290 with 20" bar for milling 6X6 beams and it works well with out of the box Stihl chain.
Ancient One
ArboristSite Operative
I have full comp chisel on a 455 Husky with 20 inch bar. Cuts very well. The secret is to keep the chain sharpened and well oiled for long chain life.
My big saws (32, 36 and 42 inch bars) all have skip tooth chisel. Works great.
If your saw is lugging, bogging, or cutting slow the chain is dull.
Call Baileys or Madsens and talk, they will fix you up.
If you do not sharpen your chains, learn how. You will have better luck that sending the chains out to sharpen. I have several loops of chain for each saw and keep a sharp chain on the saw, they are easy to change out when you are sawing.
My big saws (32, 36 and 42 inch bars) all have skip tooth chisel. Works great.
If your saw is lugging, bogging, or cutting slow the chain is dull.
Call Baileys or Madsens and talk, they will fix you up.
If you do not sharpen your chains, learn how. You will have better luck that sending the chains out to sharpen. I have several loops of chain for each saw and keep a sharp chain on the saw, they are easy to change out when you are sawing.
Since I grew up in the tree business, and my chains are always sharp, that's the first thing I miss when talking to others. My BIL kept complaining he was getting bad chains. One day he got his saw with a brand new chain on it, cut through the log, and ran it two inches in the dirt. I think he just does not believe me that dirt dulls a saw. So, yes, make sure they are sharp.
Ancient a chain saw will actually run much much faster with a dull chain becuase there’s less resistance, you can actually blow it up becuase theres no load and it will rev very high , but cutting slow is very true, sometimes won’t cut at all lol.
20” bar I’d be leaning toward a semi skip chain, anything bigger I like full skip also becuase I don’t like filing that much.
20” bar I’d be leaning toward a semi skip chain, anything bigger I like full skip also becuase I don’t like filing that much.
Wow, In 50 years that's a first for me. I've never heard you could over rev a saw because it's dull. I run full comp out to 45". I don't particularly like filing either. I keep sharp chains hanging on one peg, and dull ones on another. Then wait for a rainy day and set up the filing bench and have a get em sharp day. I hand file with no guides or handles, just the file. My hands have a bit of nerve damage from running saws for 50 years and some arthritis. After a couple chains they start to cramp up, so I'll go tinker with some project saw for a while, then come back to sharpening. I might mill up a couple Red Oaks today, looks like it's going to be overcast and rainy.
Of course you can over rev it if it’s dull. There’s nothing for the chain to grab, so it will rev up and bring the saw to max rpm becuase there’s no load and it will blow up trust me.
It’s like doing a burn out on ice vs pavement. The pavement has a lot of traction not letting the tire spin and it won’t spin very easy because there’s lots of resistance meaning the rpm won’t come up for the same throttle being applied. At say 1/4 throttle
On ice there’s no resistance and your tires will spin extremely easy. Your engine will start gaining rpm if you were at that same 1/4 throttle and the rpm would come way up.
That’s why you gota take off slow or else the tire will spin out of control from no load/ traction.
Same thing with your chainsaw chain there’s not much difference.
Make sense?
After hitting a nail while milling the saw will rev way up very easy because the cutter head is dull and it will not wanna grab into the wood, instead just slip over it and actually start going faster because it doesn’t have to bite in
Here’s a video showing how a dull chain will over rev. The chain ain’t even that dull it’s still throwing chips but look at the up cut at the 27 second mark. It literally stop cutting and just revs to the moon. This will blow up a saw. There’s no work getting down and just high rpm reving. Just imagine a super dull chain lol
It’s like doing a burn out on ice vs pavement. The pavement has a lot of traction not letting the tire spin and it won’t spin very easy because there’s lots of resistance meaning the rpm won’t come up for the same throttle being applied. At say 1/4 throttle
On ice there’s no resistance and your tires will spin extremely easy. Your engine will start gaining rpm if you were at that same 1/4 throttle and the rpm would come way up.
That’s why you gota take off slow or else the tire will spin out of control from no load/ traction.
Same thing with your chainsaw chain there’s not much difference.
Make sense?
After hitting a nail while milling the saw will rev way up very easy because the cutter head is dull and it will not wanna grab into the wood, instead just slip over it and actually start going faster because it doesn’t have to bite in
Here’s a video showing how a dull chain will over rev. The chain ain’t even that dull it’s still throwing chips but look at the up cut at the 27 second mark. It literally stop cutting and just revs to the moon. This will blow up a saw. There’s no work getting down and just high rpm reving. Just imagine a super dull chain lol
I was expecting to hear it go WOT then pop, maybe on the next one?
Luckily he let off
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