Anyone seen cylinder work like this?

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This cylinder is off a husky 372.

I would remove the camel humps and make the area level with the base gasket area.
Make the center ridge in the transfer port sharp. Feather the angles downward into the port.
When Porting is done correctly it’s all about increasing the flow. Making the ports so the flow can follow the path easier. There’s a big difference when it’s ported correctly than no porting at all.

Example. Lets say you build an high performance engine. You add headers and a four barrel carb. You expect a big difference but it’s lacking in preformance. You add a hp cam. It’s a tad better. Now you port the heads and Properly tune it, now she comes on like gang busters.
My point is when building a engine we need to do it all if we expect to see big changes,
 
I would remove the camel humps and make the area level with the base gasket area.
Make the center ridge in the transfer port sharp. Feather the angles downward into the port.
When Porting is done correctly it’s all about increasing the flow. Making the ports so the flow can follow the path easier. There’s a big difference when it’s ported correctly than no porting at all.

Example. Lets say you build an high performance engine. You add headers and a four barrel carb. You expect a big difference but it’s lacking in preformance. You add a hp cam. It’s a tad better. Now you port the heads and Properly tune it, now she comes on like gang busters.
My point is when building a engine we need to do it all if we expect to see big changes,

So how does porting for reducing turbulence versus porting for reduced turbulence and greater airflow differ in performance?
I ask cause I’m tempted to smooth out all the transfers on a cylinder and make sure that transitions are at the best possible angle. Not looking to open the port up any bigger, what kind of gains can I expect from this?
 
So how does porting for reducing turbulence versus porting for reduced turbulence and greater airflow differ in performance?
I ask cause I’m tempted to smooth out all the transfers on a cylinder and make sure that transitions are at the best possible angle. Not looking to open the port up any bigger, what kind of gains can I expect from this?

Nothing you would notice, not likely to even register on a stopwatch timed cut but you would be getting your feet wet at port grinding.
 
I remove the roughness out of the ports first. The intake gets lowered and widened, the exhaust port gets raised and widened. If the transfers are down to the base gasket I open them up to the size of the base gasket or square the angles then match the case to the cylinder transfers. I try to taper the transfers on the cylinder ports like a funnel as they go up. I knife edge the rib and feather that up into the cylinder.

You can’t change one thing and expect the saw to be an animal. Every change works together they all add up. It’s like adding only headers on a car. There’s hardley any change. But add all the other high performance stuff then you can feel the change.

When porting for the first time plan it out what your going to do. For ideas watch the two stroke porting videos on you tube. Just go slow.
 

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