372 XP hard start cold

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TexasRedNeck

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Piney Woods of East Texas
Gents, read quite a few of the hard start threads. I have a nearly new 372XP with 28 inch bar. It has maybe 5-6 tanks through it since new a year ago.

Recently its been a real bear to start cold. I yanked until I was ready to shoot it and verified the choke was working, filter is clean, fuel is fresh, I pulled the plug and it seemed wet and smelled flooded.

Normally I pull the choke, pull once or twice until it tries to fire, then switch off the choke and it fires right up ready to rock.

So after I pulled the plug, I blew it out with compressed air. Then it tried to fire right up. Pulled plug again after unable to start and blew it out and it did fire up.

What might be causing a flooded hard start cold event? I'd like to think I've babied that saw and have the freshest possible fuel.
 
Or take on a hobby like bodybuilding [emoji28].
That way, you'll start to apriciate the pulling.
An other help would be simple stuff first.

Try a new can of premix fuel
New sparkplug (and check the strength of the old agains new in the proces).
Maybe you are running the thing to rich.
If fuel/spark/fuel ratio isn't the issue thr fun stuff starts, or take it to a repairshop.
When it is not freezing, 2km above sealevel etc. Any recent saw should run in 4 pulls max, if setup correctly.


Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G955F met Tapatalk
 
A Hardened or stiff diaphragm resting on the metering lever. Quickest way I have found to start a badly flooded saw is to remove plug, turn saw upside-down and pull the starter cord at least half a dozen times to get rid of the excess fuel then dry the plug or put in a dry one pull choke rod out and push back in to set carb on high idle and pull on the cord.

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Thanks guys, good advice. It runs like a beast once running. I need to learn more about properly setting the fuel. I just recently got good at sharpening chains and I can replace bad parts, but haven't yet learned much about setting carb adjustments.
 
Do what @old guy said. Assuming it is an xtorq? All the ones I has started won't fire before flooding. It is strange and the only saw I have ever started that does that. I cold start with the decompression in and pull it twice and push choke in and never had issues on starting a half a dozen that way. Try that first. How about warm starts. Does it start first time or two without choke?
 
A Hardened or stiff diaphragm resting on the metering lever. Quickest way I have found to start a badly flooded saw is to remove plug, turn saw upside-down and pull the starter cord at least half a dozen times to get rid of the excess fuel then dry the plug or put in a dry one pull choke rod out and push back in to set carb on high idle and pull on the cord.

Sent from my H8216 using Tapatalk

This was what I was going to recommend, after sitting for a year the needle seat is probably dirty and or the diaphragm could have gone bad.
 
@Westboastfaller , yes it starts first pull on warm starts and it is an XTorq. I hate to discount potential carb problems, because I know it can happen but I've been extremely careful about using fresh fuel and it's not sat more than 2 months without being run even if I just got it out to run it a few minutes.

Its always started according to the instructions I received from the dealer, which is: Choke in, pull until it gives indication that it wants to start, choke off, then pull to start. never taken more than 5-6 pulls cold that way.

I'm going to get some pre-mixed fuel and use process of elimination including the advice to pull twice on choke then pull off choke. If it keeps up then I'll start investigating carb problems.

Is there a primer/tutorial somewhere on chainsaw carb basics? I'm extremely handy and have rebuilt pretty much anything mechanical over the last 50 years but I've not had a great deal of experience with chainsaw carbs.

Thanks again. TRN
 
@Westboastfaller , yes it starts first pull on warm starts and it is an XTorq. I hate to discount potential carb problems, because I know it can happen but I've been extremely careful about using fresh fuel and it's not sat more than 2 months without being run even if I just got it out to run it a few minutes.

Its always started according to the instructions I received from the dealer, which is: Choke in, pull until it gives indication that it wants to start, choke off, then pull to start. never taken more than 5-6 pulls cold that way.

I'm going to get some pre-mixed fuel and use process of elimination including the advice to pull twice on choke then pull off choke. If it keeps up then I'll start investigating carb problems.

Is there a primer/tutorial somewhere on chainsaw carb basics? I'm extremely handy and have rebuilt pretty much anything mechanical over the last 50 years but I've not had a great deal of experience with chainsaw carbs.

Thanks again. TRN
Yes, I caught that in the OP as it has seemed to have had ' changed it's religion' . The written of the book has never worked, as said in my experience. I am actually surprised it says that because it never worked with that model in my experience. Maybe the fuel was slightly different? IDK. For some reason people say not to use the decompression with it when starting. Different rituals it seems.
I am sure it was @ferris076 was talking about an interesting starting ritual some time ago. Fuel changes all the time. There is 28 winter grades in the US alone. I have gone to camps in north Canada and I have heard they still had a few hundred gallons of diesel in the bottom of 5000 gallon tanks when they fill them. I can smell it. I wouldn't worry about overly fancy fuel, that's crazy. Yes quality oil always. Process of elimination means doing one thing at a time. That always being the easiest thing.

Should be lots of carb tutorials on YouTube for any future reference. If it starts warm first pull then it doesn't have a inlet needle 'drip down' I am sure. That's why I asked.

I'm sure it's 'turn- key' ready to go
 
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