Cutting veneer walnut

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Woody912

Addicted to ArboristSite
AS Supporting Member.
Joined
Jan 11, 2013
Messages
1,151
Reaction score
921
Location
Crawfordsville, IN
Top blew out of brothers tree and I was pretty certain it would have a veneer log in it, watched a jillion vid's of guys cutting no hinge, bucket cut etc and really was not comfortable with any of them. Decided to put a beavertail in the center and snip the sapwood on the edges and then just cut it with a very short hinge. Worked out pretty well, should have widened the beavertail a little and snipped a little more sapwood but no fiberpull. Is there a better way that still allows some control of the log when it comes off the stump? 25" bar on the 036, as much tree as it wants. And yes, it did get bought as veneer. DSC01940.JPG DSC01941.JPG
 
Yeah if it is high value as I understand it is then dig a bit and clean with your axe then cut in through the front or bore in underneath your holding wood even use another saw with a beater chain if needed. Just don't do it on the high side if it is under much tension obviously. Roger? An interior Faller/friend taught me that one about 10-11 yrs ago for making wedging much easier. Even at 8-10" below the cut and it can sure make things easier to wedge if needed.
Just sayin' if you can get down 4" and you can leave full holding wood with an undercut then you should get control if balanced. At least when it pulls, it will give insurance that it will pull from the stump.
Even if you bore down on an angle to get deeper under the hold wood? why not?
I just never had to do it.
Looks like you had weight on the bar tip side as I see a beaver tail patter in closing your back cut.

This obviously is not the walnut you were talking about on a hill at your brother's a few months ago?

OK and what is veneer? Prime saw log grade? I hear of Veneer mills/ veneer wood in Canada now and then but it isn't used as a harvesting grade in my experience.
 
Yeah if it is high value as I understand it is then dig a bit and clean with your axe then cut in through the front or bore in underneath your holding wood even use another saw with a beater chain if needed. Just don't do it on the high side if it is under much tension obviously. Roger? An interior Faller/friend taught me that one about 10-11 yrs ago for making wedging much easier. Even at 8-10" below the cut and it can sure make things easier to wedge if needed.
Just sayin' if you can get down 4" and you can leave full holding wood with an undercut then you should get control if balanced. At least when it pulls, it will give insurance that it will pull from the stump.
Even if you bore down on an angle to get deeper under the hold wood? why not?
I just never had to do it.
Looks like you had weight on the bar tip side as I see a beaver tail patter in closing your back cut.

This obviously is not the walnut you were talking about on a hill at your brother's a few months ago?

OK and what is veneer? Prime saw log grade? I hear of Veneer mills/ veneer wood in Canada now and then but it isn't used as a harvesting grade in my experience.

Veneer is not sawn, it is sliced after being cooked I think. Plywood is made from rotary veneer but I think hardwood is cut in two and then sliced on the open face into slices maybe 1/8" thick. Got $4/bf for the 21' log and let them decide where to cut it, top log was sawlog grade with the limbs. Fall was easy but we put a line on it due to proximity of power lines, top wt was in the direction of fall. Have not cut the one on the hill yet, probably wait till late fall to get it, been raining here everyday. FYI, highest price I saw paid in Indiana last year for walnut veneer log was $15/bf. Sawmill guy told me they sometimes hire a climber to top them if they are worried about splitting the tree on impact.
 
Top blew out of brothers tree and I was pretty certain it would have a veneer log in it, watched a jillion vid's of guys cutting no hinge, bucket cut etc and really was not comfortable with any of them. Decided to put a beavertail in the center and snip the sapwood on the edges and then just cut it with a very short hinge. Worked out pretty well, should have widened the beavertail a little and snipped a little more sapwood but no fiberpull. Is there a better way that still allows some control of the log when it comes off the stump? 25" bar on the 036, as much tree as it wants. And yes, it did get bought as veneer. View attachment 738029 View attachment 738030
not much of a verneer cutter myself,

But what you did is basically what I've heard called a post cut, face it, bore the guts of the hold wood, bore the back cut leaving a post, then sever that final post to tip the tree.

On walnut seems most folks don't care much about the sap wood, they just want the dark center wood, so anything you can do to preserve it is a bonus.

reality around these parts is just face it and dump it as usual, but a good cutter wont have much pull wood anyway, so its just not an issue most of the time
 
not much of a verneer cutter myself,

But what you did is basically what I've heard called a post cut, face it, bore the guts of the hold wood, bore the back cut leaving a post, then sever that final post to tip the tree.

On walnut seems most folks don't care much about the sap wood, they just want the dark center wood, so anything you can do to preserve it is a bonus.

reality around these parts is just face it and dump it as usual, but a good cutter wont have much pull wood anyway, so its just not an issue most of the time

I just made a conventional back cut on this one, power line was close by and I wanted a wedge in the back for a little help if needed. If you watch some of the vid's on YouTube you will see guys pretty much walking around the tree cutting without a hinge and the butt flying anywhere when it tips. Wanted no part of that. For those not familiar with veneer, this is what it looks like. At least in the far East.
 
Don't nip the sapwood. Leave that as your hold wood and cut all the brown out that you can.

Veneer is peeled also. They have knives that take a thin layer off as a continuous sheet as the log rolls.

View attachment 738283 View attachment 738284

looks like we are on the same page, yes I should have cut more brown wood. Rookie mistake. Love my 036's but I see why guys want more cc's for felling work.
 
looks like we are on the same page, yes I should have cut more brown wood. Rookie mistake. Love my 036's but I see why guys want more cc's for felling work.

mo powah

Its nice for general cutting making thing faster etc

Where it really shines is when you need to chase the back cut in a big damned hurry, dog in and lean on it cause she's goin sideways are trying to chair
 
mo powah

Its nice for general cutting making thing faster etc

Where it really shines is when you need to chase the back cut in a big damned hurry, dog in and lean on it cause she's goin sideways are trying to chair

I have started doing a lot more bore cuts for just that reason, gives me the time to set my hinge and then stand up and trip the backstrap. ( I cut everything at clutch cover thickness and I am on my knees) caveat emptor: Just a guy who cuts trees, I have no pretensions of being an actual logger!
 
Back
Top