Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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Wowsers, I bought a bunch of odds and ends of the chains, bunch of files and holders and 4 pieces of the safety gear. The chain saws were sold for more than they were worth, the girl helping me said that they were very very happy with the prices they got. Have to add the premium on those prices too, it adds up quickly. I was interested in the pole saws to replace the older one I have, they went more than I was willing to pay for open boxes and old stock. For only $100 less than new I would rather give my buddy Schmidt's in Bluevale the business.
 
Wowsers, I bought a bunch of odds and ends of the chains, bunch of files and holders and 4 pieces of the safety gear. The chain saws were sold for more than they were worth, the girl helping me said that they were very very happy with the prices they got. Have to add the premium on those prices too, it adds up quickly. I was interested in the pole saws to replace the older one I have, they went more than I was willing to pay for open boxes and old stock. For only $100 less than new I would rather give my buddy Schmidt's in Bluevale the business.
HAPPY BIRTHDAY !!! @cantoo. Have a good one buddy.
 
The 450 is a little heavy but built like a tank. It's my favorite when cutting 6 to 16 inch diameter wood.
Since husky added all the weight to the 550 ne you can say "the 450 is heavy because it's built like a tank", it's now a positive thing because husky did it, but husky was just copying some of stihls older designs lol.

Scored a good find, a local guy with a portable sawmill. Basically getting big butt ends, slabs, etc. But I ain't picky. Question whilst I'm here, I have an old 266 XP, the thing will rip your arm off lol, anyway, last year before winter for the 1st time I actually emptied completely the gas tank. Today I needed it for those big butt ends. I put a tiny bit of gas in it just to fire it up while still at home, I poured the fuel & filled the bar oil. Got side tracked & when I picked up the saw gas was all over the underside. My 1st thought was wtf, I drain the gas last year & what, did the gas tank crack? But then I got thinking the fuel line probably failed. As far as I know its all original. Basically my question is, there's no way it could be a cracked tank right? Any thoughts. Here's some pics of butt rounds & my growing pile of other wood to be cut/split. There's pine there also, I didn't take any today, but I have before just for the fire pit. Have good safe week guys!
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Nice score, certainly getting into 60-70cc wood although a 50 with an 18 should have no problem, especially a newer pro saw!
My first though was did you put the gas cap back on right :laugh:, it's funny, but many here have experienced getting gas or oil dumped down their leg because of a cap not properly secured :sucks:.
I'm more inclined to think it's the fuel line between the tank and the case or the fuel line where it goes into the tank has shrunk and is leaking. A nice trick for feeding the fuel line is slit the first inch of the hose in half and then cut one of the halves off at an angle, put that end of the hose through from the top and down into the tank, grab that end of the hose with a hemostat and pull it thru. Now all you have to do is cut the inch off and install the fuel filter and hook the other end to the carb.
A carb kit would probably help the saw to run better if it hasn't been done since you bought it, even if it seems to be running well now.
Let us know what you come up with.
The fuel leak could be the tank, the line, or the carb. I'm guessing when you drained the fuel, the gaskets dried out, so my bet is the carb. It is why I don't drain my saws!

Let us know when you figure it out. I have also seen a lot of cracked tanks, often under the motor where you can't see the crack!
Maybe ethanol fuel shrink the old fuel lines, and now it's leaking where it goes through the tank, I'm not a fan of ethanol :nofunny:.
Yes, no need to drain them if you use efree, also fire them up once a month if possible to keep the diaphragm and gaskets covered in fuel as it will evaporate even if it's efree, but it won't absorb moisture like ethanol :baba:).
I might go up to a 24, but wouldn't run a 32 in hardwood; maybe it will oil it, I'm not sure.
Here's one with a 20", the first wood is cherry the second is a hard chunk of ash. Great running saws, I sold that one, but have a 268 now(open port standard 268, the 268xp is closed port).
 
Yes the remote would be sweet for the use your talking about, and that's the main purpose I use mine for as it is.
I use a step cut for them, but there is still a bit of pucker factor(clenched buttcheeks :surprised3:) while doing bad ones as the hinge could break in certain circumstances although I've never had that happen(at least doing this :rare2:). First I set my winch cable in the tree(you need to pull directly against the lean or the chance of the hinge breaking goes up greatly), then I pull it with the winch to be sure I can overcome the lean, then I release the tension on the cable and just snug the cable up(you don't want to pull so hard it breaks the holding wood, but it should be pulled enough to hold the tree in place), then I notch the tree, bore it and set up my hinge, then step down and make my back cut anywhere from 2-8" depends on many factors which you will have to experiment with and it's best to do this on low risk trees :D. There will be holding wood between the bore cut and the "step cut" that helps keep the tree from setting back. It's as safe as I've found for pulling leaners as it leaves a lot of wood, the hinge and the holding wood, but as I said lots of experimenting on "safe trees" will prepare you for the tough ones. I also like using a pulley if there is a tree to secure to that's directly against the lean as I can then park my tractor right next to the tree or at least closer to it.
Hope this helps.
and unbelievably expensive. I have a goal to learn the basics before next Summer. The bigger goal is affording the gear. Yeah, yeah, can't put a price on safety, blah, blah. When I hear purveyors of nose-bleed-inducing expensive gear start down that line I turn off straight away. Even second hand gear here is expensive. For the occasional climbing need it's almost impossible to justify. That said, if I was all about the money to justify the gear I have I would have stayed staring at a computer and never ventured into the woods.

When the climbing gear is more expensive than my ute, it becomes a significant barrier to adoption. I figure I've got about 4 months of bargain hunting to see if I can come up with enough good gear to get a few lessons and experiment safely.

If anyone reading this stumbles upon any bargains, please can you PM me? Thanks in advance.
I did a lot of buying and selling of lots and sold the saws(from the lots) to get all my gear but my ascender, rope wrench(descent device for single line), and a few other bits for under 500 freedom dollars, I'm set up for srt as well as ddrt and have a bunch of ropes for rigging, climbing, I literally have like 3 large bags of equipment(and more I don't bring with), what's funny is I can hold the 500 worth in one hand :crazy:. Single line will be the easiest to do for anyone who's a bit older or out of shape.
I think the best way for a new guy to get into it is buying a full kit as it will have everything you need to get started. A good way to start getting ready without spending as much is to buy a bigshot, throw line, and a few throw bags, as well as some nice bull rope, you can use them for setting lines in trees for pulling and they will be needed to set climb lines anyway, that's about 200 here in the states.
Here's a vid that shows the basics. It also says they are used all over the world so it will probably work there :laugh:.

Here's one with mods done by the climbing arborist. Open that on youtube and follow him, he has his own webpage as well as blogs and he's an excellent resource for newbies(I'm still here) as well as those with many yrs under their belt.
 
Wowsers, I bought a bunch of odds and ends of the chains, bunch of files and holders and 4 pieces of the safety gear. The chain saws were sold for more than they were worth, the girl helping me said that they were very very happy with the prices they got. Have to add the premium on those prices too, it adds up quickly. I was interested in the pole saws to replace the older one I have, they went more than I was willing to pay for open boxes and old stock. For only $100 less than new I would rather give my buddy Schmidt's in Bluevale the business.


Yeah I was looking at the Kombi hedge trimmer, and edger attachment. i was looking around tying to figure out if there was a buyers premium on there but couldn't find it, Good thing I didn't get to far into it and went all in I guess
 
Nice find thank you. That's weird though, I went back to the mill where I get those oak butts. Chain relatively new & cut was crooked as a banana. And it seamed like every now & then nothing was cutting like the saw was just burning the wood. Then I'd kinda manhandle saw & it would start throwing chips again. It cut best when I'd push tip into wood, then I'd adjust & use the dawgs to dig in the back & fine sawdust. So I figured bar was bent. So I stopped at a place that sells husqvarna & the kid didn't even know the saw. "Sure its not a 262" he asks me lol. Anyway he looked it up & said they don't recommend over a 20. So I bought the 20. But its nice to know I can go bigger still. Thanks again for your help.

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couple hours down the road its 55. Perfect windows cracked sleeping weather.
I’m probably not much more than an hour, and we have the windows open. I haven’t check the temp, just enjoying it. Some one told me it’s supposed to get hot tomorrow. I’m riding up to WV to see how my contractors are doing.
 
Nice find thank you. That's weird though, I went back to the mill where I get those oak butts. Chair relatively new & cut was crooked as a banana. And it seamed like every now & then nothing was cutting like the saw was just burning the wood. Then I'd kinda manhandle saw & it would start throwing chips again. It cut best when I'd push tip into wood, then I'd adjust & use the dawgs to dig in the back & fine sawdust. So I figured bar was bent. So I stopped at a place that sells husqvarna & the kid didn't even know the saw. "Sure its not a 262" he asks me lol. Anyway he looked it up & said they don't recommend over a 20. So I bought the 20. But its nice to know I can go bigger still. Thanks again for your help.

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Saw sounds dull. My buddy just retired from the counter at the saw shop, 76 years old. He said guys come in almost daily and say their bar is shot because it cuts crooked. He’ll ask if they were cutting stumps or hit metal in the wood. They always say no. Then he would show them all the teeth on the down hill side dull from dirt. They still say it’s the bar. He said he finally got tired of arguing with them and just sells them a new bar, and throws in a new chain for 10 percent off.

My MS 170 would only cut if I started the cut with the tip of the bar. Threw OK chips, but when it got halfway through a 10 inch limb it went to fine dust. I grabbed the file. I’d been cutting little Cedars back from the drive, and was too hot and tired to make an effort to keep the tip out of the dirt. I do it too.
 
Wowzer, the premium at Rockford is 13%. With taxes that's 25% more than your bid and no warranty and buying from a few pictures. Jutzi in Breslau does not have a premium and sells lots of stuff too. It's on site bidding only though.
Amish auction is on June 08th near Chesley. Sometimes good stuff there too, of course I will be there keeping everyone honest. I'll be driving my white dodge and 16' trailer, my anniversary is coming up so need to get her something. I need some chickens for the coop I'm building, they sell small animals there too. Maybe another firewood conveyor or a splitter or 2?
 
Nice find thank you. That's weird though, I went back to the mill where I get those oak butts. Chain relatively new & cut was crooked as a banana. And it seamed like every now & then nothing was cutting like the saw was just burning the wood. Then I'd kinda manhandle saw & it would start throwing chips again. It cut best when I'd push tip into wood, then I'd adjust & use the dawgs to dig in the back & fine sawdust. So I figured bar was bent. So I stopped at a place that sells husqvarna & the kid didn't even know the saw. "Sure its not a 262" he asks me lol. Anyway he looked it up & said they don't recommend over a 20. So I bought the 20. But its nice to know I can go bigger still. Thanks again for your help.

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The description of how that chain cut is typical of chain that has been rocked or a poor filing job. Rarely is it the fault of the bar. Just went through it again with a chain I rocked so badly that it took 20 strokes per tooth to get it back to 'almost'. Cut crooked (same symptoms as yours), refiled three times and still went crooked. Nothing but slivers of teeth left by then so I pitched it.
 
aheeejd, check your rakers, maybe they are too high and not allowing it to cut. I do some really hot cutting when I'm cutting logs into rounds. I use a 460 and never shut it off except to fuel and oil. I actually dump oil on the bar to lube and cool it down. I do about 500 cuts in just a few hours off a stack of logs. The logs are all about the same size so it usually destroys the end of the bar and at the dogs where the bark cut line is. Very seldom does it cut crooked even with the bar having chunks out of it. I would bet it's your chain.
 
I live in the land of the oak tards. Most people around here would walk past soft maple. If I had room I'd keep it. Works fine for when your around to keep the stove loaded and saves the better wood for over night or when your not home.
I burn near anything that burns! Basswood, pine, tamarack, cedar, poplar, kids toys, soft maple, hard woods are nice but reality..........
 
Saw sounds dull. My buddy just retired from the counter at the saw shop, 76 years old. He said guys come in almost daily and say their bar is shot because it cuts crooked. He’ll ask if they were cutting stumps or hit metal in the wood. They always say no. Then he would show them all the teeth on the down hill side dull from dirt. They still say it’s the bar. He said he finally got tired of arguing with them and just sells them a new bar, and throws in a new chain for 10 percent off.

My MS 170 would only cut if I started the cut with the tip of the bar. Threw OK chips, but when it got halfway through a 10 inch limb it went to fine dust. I grabbed the file. I’d been cutting little Cedars back from the drive, and was too hot and tired to make an effort to keep the tip out of the dirt. I do it too.
It was the bar. I thought the bar that was on it was an 18". In my other post I said I stopped & got a 20", kid said no bigger then a 20". So this morning I go to put new bar on & it is the same length. Bar on saw is a 20. So, the new bar would not fit on. The adjuster holes just wouldn't let it work. The bar that came off, the adjuster holes are oblong. I take new bar & chain & the saw back to where I bought it. Told the kid that I found I could put a 32" on it. He said no way. But anyway, he had a 24" bar & the adjuster holes lined up perfectly. So for another $22 I got the 24" bar & chain. Brought home slapped it together & the saw cut grea

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The fuel leak could be the tank, the line, or the carb. I'm guessing when you drained the fuel, the gaskets dried out, so my bet is the carb. It is why I don't drain my saws!

Let us know when you figure it out. I have also seen a lot of cracked tanks, often under the motor where you can't see the crack!
Saw is not leaking anymore. I know I didn't spill any cause I put gas in it on my work bench. Anyway I'm thinking the gaskets in carb shrunk & luckily adding fuel swelled them again. I don't know man, lol. Was leaking & now its not. Ran 3 tanks through this afternoon. Filter came today & fuel line coming Friday so at least I'll have them on hand.

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