562xp warm start trouble, air purge stops working for a while

[CrufflerJJ]

@Solrael - If your local shop is lazy, they may very well overlook an air leak that could kill your saw's new top end. You might insist that they do a pressure/vacuum test on the saw BEFORE tearing it down.

 

[CoreyB]

If the rebuild expense is just as much as you paid for the saw, why not a new one else with warranty?

 

[Cycledude]

Rather than pay new price to fix old saw I would just buy another new one with the four year warranty, and sell the old saw cheap to someone that enjoys fixing them.

 

[sunfish]

I've had a hot start problem lately.

Too hot to start any chainsaw!!!

 

[Solrael]

If the rebuild expense is just as much as you paid for the saw, why not a new one else with warranty?

Ahh unfortunately my statement was both true and also not the whole story. The saw was an import from the US bought by a mate who was travelling at the time, so the price I paid then was about 60% of the cost of the local new saw. To buy the same saw new today is literally twice the price of the repair.

If I get it back and it works flawlessly I'll use it for the 3 months their repair warranty covers then think about selling it on to buy a new one to start fresh. It looks almost new so I shouldn't have too much trouble as long as everything's working as it should.

@Solrael - If your local shop is lazy, they may very well overlook an air leak that could kill your saw's new top end. You might insist that they do a pressure/vacuum test on the saw BEFORE tearing it down.

Hmmm, I may be too late on that. I did ask them to do a pressure/vacuum test when I brought it in to them (hoping that it wasn't too late for my top end). Their procedure for the rebuild involves doing a pressure/vacuum test after it's assembled, but I got the feeling they'd already decided the problem was my fault and didn't want to waste more time testing. Parts were due last week so the rebuild may be in process already. Would a pressure/vac test on the reassembled saw be sufficient? If it's a faulty decompression valve or something and they use the same valve it would show on the final test wouldn't it?

 

[CrufflerJJ]

... I did ask them to do a pressure/vacuum test when I brought it in to them (hoping that it wasn't too late for my top end). Their procedure for the rebuild involves doing a pressure/vacuum test after it's assembled, but I got the feeling they'd already decided the problem was my fault and didn't want to waste more time testing. Parts were due last week so the rebuild may be in process already. Would a pressure/vac test on the reassembled saw be sufficient? If it's a faulty decompression valve or something and they use the same valve it would show on the final test wouldn't it?

By doing the pressure/vacuum test before the saw was taken apart, that would have ruled out a leak as the cause of your piston/cylinder scoring.

If they do the test after the saw is rebuilt, it should make sure that there's no leaks in your newly rebuilt saw. There HAD to be some reason why your saw died. If you were using fresh fuel/oil mix, that should have not caused your saw to die.

 

[Derrinx]

I dug this thread up. I picked my 562 xp up July 2015. I am a homeowner who wanted a mean saw for firewood gathering. I cut and split about 2 chords of wood per year. I usually buck and split enough wood to fill 2 full yutrax X2 cart loads, and then I'm done for the day. Fallen shag bark hickory, locust, and red oak mostly. Last year I was clearing some pines from a field on a 95 degree day and these symptoms started. Cut some down, and turned the saw off to pull some logs around. 20 mins later went back and it wouldn't start. Primer bulb was empty and when pumped would do nothing. Saw wouldn't start. Put it away a few hours later it started back up no problem. ALWAYS used ethanol free gas and synthetic two stroke oil.

Took it to my dealer. Had researched this vapor lock issue while I was still under warranty and was hoping the dealer could resolve it. All I was told was "the saw starts fine and I tightened your chain for you".... THANKS

Was bucking a monster 26 inch oak this past weekend. Got about 6 rounds off it, and then the saw gave up.

I don't think I ever touched the decompression

After reading through this whole thread I'm thinking to just sell it......

 

[Andyshine77]

I believe the check valve in the carb quits in the heat and that's that. Maybe a new carb would help, but that's not a cheap or easy fix because of the AT needing to be programmed to match the sync the carb and coil. These saws are garbage in my book.[emoji111]

 

[Deleted member 117362]

Look at a new top cover and will see heat vent on clutch side. I cut a similar one in my cover. May help, also could have it reflashed. My el46 runs and starts just fine. I like that garbage saw. Tank vent or muffler screen plugged?

 

[Derrinx]

No nothing plugged its clean as a whistle. I am just realyl defeated over having spent so much on an unreliable saw....

Look at a new top cover and will see heat vent on clutch side. I cut a similar one in my cover. May help, also could have it reflashed. My el46 runs and starts just fine. I like that garbage saw. Tank vent or muffler screen plugged?

 

[Andyshine77]

Look at a new top cover and will see heat vent on clutch side. I cut a similar one in my cover. May help, also could have it reflashed. My el46 runs and starts just fine. I like that garbage saw. Tank vent or muffler screen plugged?

Non of that normal stuff works. The best thing to do is drill a bunch of holes in back of the cover behind the air filter, helps vent heat and allows cool air in while running. In cool temps these saws run better, just can't deal with heat whatever. It's clear the 550, 562 were never tested in warm water, and is why they have been redesigned. I consider these saws disposable and not really serviceable for the average Joe.

I know some guys love these saws, but I have to call it as I see it.

 

[Deleted member 117362]

No nothing plugged its clean as a whistle. I am just realyl defeated over having spent so much on an unreliable saw....

You need air to move over cylinder, holes in back of cover will not change much, direct it over cylinder fins. Carbs can be changed, leaving chips intact, then reflashed. Quiting is no fun, send it here. Put an el48 or 55a on it.

 

[Deleted member 117362]

Non of that normal stuff works. The best thing to do is drill a bunch of holes in back of the cover behind the air filter, helps vent heat and allows cool air in while running. In cool temps these saws run better, just can't deal with heat whatever. It's clear the 550, 562 were never tested in warm water, and is why they have been redesigned. I consider these saws disposable and not really serviceable for the average Joe.

I know some guys love these saws, but I have to call it as I see it.

Don't think they where designed to run in water. It's mechanical an can be made to run. Tree service friend owned several of those el46's and seen a lot of use during hot weather. Ran just fine. You don't care for them, I get it. Can't stand Stihl saws, expensive junk to me.

 

[CentaurG2]

I purchased a 562xp when they first came out. I have beat the snot out of that saw and it has never let me down or failed to start. Stihl now makes pure junk and charges you a fortune for it. I would regale you to the trouble I had with the vaulted ms361.

Now I will agree with you that manufactures are moving toward throw away saws. Around here, you cannot find anyone to work on saws. If you do, the prices they charge are often more than the value of the saw. You do it yourself or throw it away.

 

[Andyshine77]

I'm a Husky guy mostly, own 10 of them in fact, it's not a brand thing. May guys have the same problem, it's not rare and comes up every year when the weather turns warm. The 550, 562 series of saws were just not designed well, when tgey run properly they make a nice saw, but whether or not you can get one to run correctly is hit and miss.

 

[Oregonsaw]

From what i understand, once it’s warm, there is no need to choke or purge at all. Just pull. Husqvarna tech told me that it should idle for 2 minutes before shutdown when the saw has been running hard like cutting.

 

[CentaurG2]

I'm a Husky guy mostly, own 10 of them in fact, it's not a brand thing. May guys have the same problem, it's not rare and comes up every year when the weather turns warm. The 550, 562 series of saws were just not designed well, when tgey run properly they make a nice saw, but weather or not you can get one to run correctly is hit and miss.

Funny, but I also own an 550xp. Not as much mileage as the 562 but it too, has been phenomenal. New 572xp is in the house. While I dislike the cheap, thin rear handle, so far, no problems.

 

[Andyshine77]

It serms as though guys in cooler climates have far less problems, when temps are 85+ the 550 and 562 are useless for 30 minute or so after you shut them off. And if you're in direct sunlight forget about it.

My 2014 550 was DOA, leaking transfer seals and improperly installed intake boot. Fixed those issues than the saw had a stumble off idle, replaced the AT1A carb with an AT12 and it runs fine most of the time, still doesn't like restarting in the heat, but it will eventually start. The 562's won't even pull fuel until they cool down, local tree guys had the same issues.

Again do some searching this has all been covered here before, quite a few YouTube videos demonstrating the issue as well.[emoji111]

Good news is Husqvarna is finally addressing the issue, it just took them a little too long, and in my opinion these saws should have been recalled until a proper fix was had. Husqvarna lost a lot of credibility and busness with the 5-series saws. The 572 will hopefully be a solid model, so far so good, as the 550 and 562 had problems pretty much immediately upon release, we just haven't seen that yet with the 572.[emoji106]

I'll stop beating the dead horse now.[emoji4]

 

[Derrinx]

You need air to move over cylinder, holes in back of cover will not change much, direct it over cylinder fins. Carbs can be changed, leaving chips intact, then reflashed. Quiting is no fun, send it here. Put an el48 or 55a on it.

My only problem is the uncertainty of whats wrong. It's a bit of a mystery box. Chainsaw wizard said change the purge valave, others say decomp leak and scrap the saw (again i dont think I EVER started it with the purge valve), others say change the carb and take it to the dealer to reflash..... I guess i should check if the cylinder is scored before I do anything.

 

[Cycledude]

Sounds like your 562xp has barely cut 5 cords of wood so far, it’s practically a brand-new saw with a relatively minor issue that a good Husqvarna dealer should be able to fix for you. Don’t give up to easily, take it back and complain some more, if that dealer doesn’t want to fix it take it somewhere else.
Had a new carburetor or whatever you call it put on my 562 under warranty the first year I owned it and it has run and started about perfect since. I have been cutting roughly 10 cords per year and other than some bar and chain wear my 562 is like new.

Do you use the fast idle feature for starting it when it’s hot ? I do and that seems to help a lot.

I dug this thread up. I picked my 562 xp up July 2015. I am a homeowner who wanted a mean saw for firewood gathering. I cut and split about 2 chords of wood per year. I usually buck and split enough wood to fill 2 full yutrax X2 cart loads, and then I'm done for the day. Fallen shag bark hickory, locust, and red oak mostly. Last year I was clearing some pines from a field on a 95 degree day and these symptoms started. Cut some down, and turned the saw off to pull some logs around. 20 mins later went back and it wouldn't start. Primer bulb was empty and when pumped would do nothing. Saw wouldn't start. Put it away a few hours later it started back up no problem. ALWAYS used ethanol free gas and synthetic two stroke oil.

Took it to my dealer. Had researched this vapor lock issue while I was still under warranty and was hoping the dealer could resolve it. All I was told was "the saw starts fine and I tightened your chain for you".... THANKS

Was bucking a monster 26 inch oak this past weekend. Got about 6 rounds off it, and then the saw gave up.

I don't think I ever touched the decompression

After reading through this whole thread I'm thinking to just sell it......

My only problem is the uncertainty of whats wrong. It's a bit of a mystery box. Chainsaw wizard said change the purge valave, others say decomp leak and scrap the saw (again i dont think I EVER started it with the purge valve), others say change the carb and take it to the dealer to reflash..... I guess i should check if the cylinder is scored before I do anything.