Husqvarna 357xp issues

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I went out and tried backing the adjuster screws out and it made zero difference. So I'm going to be ordering a different carb. And possibly a new gasket for the head since I pulled it a few days ago to get a good look at everything, and yes it was doing this before I pulled it and I already knew I was going to be ordering a new gasket. Where should I order parts from? Keep in mind I don't make money with saws, I will just be using it while hunting to cut stuff out of the way, and once in a while to cut some firewood for camping.
I don't make money on saws either. I order a lot of parts from my local Husky dealer.
 
Ok I'll do that. Thanks for all the advice I'll take all I can get. Not too proud to admit I know very little about working on saws. Last one I had was an 028 Stihl I bought for 100 bucks and only thing I had to fix was the pull rope that broke. Had it 6 yrs and I'll admit that it was mistreated.
 
No it's got the manual decomp with blue button. Chain does race after I start it. Chain doesn't spin when pulling the rope. It dies when I try giving it any throttle. After looking into it more, I think it's a carb for a 350??? It might not be pumping enough fuel. Plug is bone dry when I pull it out so it's not flooding, I honestly think it's lack of fuel. Do the carbs for the 350 not put out as much fuel?
Ok I wrote this out but you couldn't wait for my slow azz...haha.

No perfect a read your post's. No worries man. I think that's what you did.
I would go backwards and forwards with the low but if your idle isn't responsive on a cold saw then it's a rap.

That's all I am getting at below
You got the answer already a believe. A have had lots of those saws with Walbro carbs and what is common is when you are lacking idle adjustment or low they are F—ed. They will do exactly that.

The Cylinder? Many 'leaks' wont show up unless you pour the heat into the saw.
Some could sell you a saw and tell you it's the best and you put it to the test and it could have three leaks. Hardy little saws those. They will take leaks like London takes bombs...like a sponge. I'm here to tell ya.

===============
(you can read this anyway if you like.)

You said it would remain racing until you throttle?

So yeah 100℅ it is all lined up under the clamp. I seen guys that do it for a living and I've gone back into them and they were mushed together.
I am not sure if you are just on a fast idle settings that is activated by your choke and released by touching the trigger? It would race with fast idle set. so it runs.
If you can warm it that way then it stalls make sure higher idle is off by trigger and don't choke.
Take your idle way way up and see if it runs without the trigger. Now do you have any control on your idle firstly? If it is racing hard and running then ajust down a bit till it almost stops racing. Responsive? (Make sure chain is loose)

If so then..
take your low jet 1/4 to the left slow if it will go (limiters probably) go as far as you can then. That should bring your revs down some. Responsive? try the trigger and and set your idle. If not try the other way and see if the idle will pick up as you go clockwise.

then go the other way slowly and see if revs pick up. Once it's at it's peak rev and runs smoothest then go back 1/4 turn. Then set idle
 
What website is everyone getting their parts from? I'm looking for a Zama carb but I type in Zama c3 el42 and a bunch of fake Zama carbs show up. They are only about 15 bucks so im getting the feeling they aren't legit Zama carbs? I'm going to be ordering a carb, a gasket for where the cylinder bolts to the saw, a new intake boot and metal clamp. And I found that the decomp valve is bent and it wasnt sealing all the way, but I might just use a bolt and block it off.
 
What website is everyone getting their parts from? I'm looking for a Zama carb but I type in Zama c3 el42 and a bunch of fake Zama carbs show up. They are only about 15 bucks so im getting the feeling they aren't legit Zama carbs? I'm going to be ordering a carb, a gasket for where the cylinder bolts to the saw, a new intake boot and metal clamp. And I found that the decomp valve is bent and it wasnt sealing all the way, but I might just use a bolt and block it off.
Here is the carb you want to order...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-Wa...309331&hash=item419f72cfc3:g:WIQAAOSwbsBXmO7U
 
Plug up your decomp and I deleted the base gasket on my 357xp with the help from people on here. Took my blown up junk to a hardwood shredder in a few days.
 
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