That's a YOU SUCK. Great score for 20 bucks!!!
Homelite Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
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Fellows,
I need to make up some throttle linkage for XL-76/130's. Looking for advice on suitable material/rod. TIA.
I need to make up some throttle linkage for XL-76/130's. Looking for advice on suitable material/rod. TIA.
sweepleader
Chainsaws and Fire Trucks, perfect.
Welding filler rod is available in 3 ft lengths in many sizes from too small to too large and in any weldable material. You can get it anywhere welding supplies are sold. A welding shop might be best if you only want one length cuz you will likely have to buy a pound or 5 in a package.
WIW: 1050 gear drive in average runnable shape.[emoji848]
I don’t have a clue. [emoji57]
I don’t have a clue. [emoji57]
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If it's s gear drive it should be an 1100 or 1130. The 1050 is direct drive.
1XX0 is what I can see.
And, a wonky bucking spike. [emoji2960]
Drptrch
Addicted to ArboristSite
spike looks upsidedown, from a dd homelite
I saw a xl with a grinder on it at a saw shop Was told it is for Rail Road to prep the rail for welding a copper lug on it for signals and ? I was surprised to see a 40 year old tool still in service for BNSF
1XX0 is what I can see.
And, a wonky bucking spike. [emoji2960]
Same color scheme as my XP1100,which is same displacement 6.11 cube/100cc & a year or two older 1965-66.
ML12
ArboristSite Guru
Stainless steel tig filler rod. Its strong and hard (wont bend under throttle load) and is usually close to the stock sizes. If you are down in the lower mainland I could get you a couple 3ft lengths
2broke2ride
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I am working on this old blue homelite ez. I got the saw in "barn fresh" condition about 3 years ago when I first started getting into saws. It had good compression, spark, and would fire on prime. I put a carb kit in it and never could get it to.run on it's own. I got frustrated and shelved it.
Fast forward to yesterday. I dragged it out, put new crank seals I it and converted to an atom module while I was there.
I opened the carb back up and found the metering lever looked all wonky and thought maybe it wasnt opening the needle so I reset it and same result, fire on prime and Peter out. Back in the carb again, i have fuel in the metering chamber so I know the needle is working, dig deeper, high speed check is working right, now I'm not sure if I have the right separator plate gasket in it can someone tell me which one should be in there. The one I had in there is at the top. If that is correct I'm open to advice here.
Fast forward to yesterday. I dragged it out, put new crank seals I it and converted to an atom module while I was there.
I opened the carb back up and found the metering lever looked all wonky and thought maybe it wasnt opening the needle so I reset it and same result, fire on prime and Peter out. Back in the carb again, i have fuel in the metering chamber so I know the needle is working, dig deeper, high speed check is working right, now I'm not sure if I have the right separator plate gasket in it can someone tell me which one should be in there. The one I had in there is at the top. If that is correct I'm open to advice here.
What diameter? You can get rods in many diameters and alloys here.
https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-steel-rods
Thanks guys. Diameter is 0.090". I figure 2.2mm rod would work. I'll try and track something (stainless) down locally.
ML12
ArboristSite Guru
Got the XP-1100 back together, but the carb needs more attention, I think the needle valve is leaking, typical HL.
Anyways, how do I tune one of these with the accelerator pump and the weird air valve. Does anyone have a manual? What should the settings be to start with?
this combo was found on XP-1020's and XP-1100s for a brief time.
Anyways, how do I tune one of these with the accelerator pump and the weird air valve. Does anyone have a manual? What should the settings be to start with?
this combo was found on XP-1020's and XP-1100s for a brief time.
ML12
ArboristSite Guru
Thank you so much!
In that excerpt it says that the saw shouldn't have an idle speed adjustment, but mine seems to have the standard adjustment screw that bottoms out on the butterfly.
I will re-build the carb and try it with the settings as mentioned and let you all know how it goes.
I am working on this old blue homelite ez. I got the saw in "barn fresh" condition about 3 years ago when I first started getting into saws. It had good compression, spark, and would fire on prime. I put a carb kit in it and never could get it to.run on it's own. I got frustrated and shelved it.
Fast forward to yesterday. I dragged it out, put new crank seals I it and converted to an atom module while I was there.
I opened the carb back up and found the metering lever looked all wonky and thought maybe it wasnt opening the needle so I reset it and same result, fire on prime and Peter out. Back in the carb again, i have fuel in the metering chamber so I know the needle is working, dig deeper, high speed check is working right, now I'm not sure if I have the right separator plate gasket in it can someone tell me which one should be in there. The one I had in there is at the top. If that is correct I'm open to advice here.
Hi Kevin,
Is that an HDC 44?
I use music wire (piano wire) available from hobby shops. It's pretty hard but will take bending as long as you don't keep changing the same bend.
Try Finescale models in your town. Open until 6 pm
(250) 493-4367
Carb is probably not original then. In any case, in the pic you posted, you can clearly see the hose is split where the connects to the idle air valve, the other side connects to the cylinder. This would be a major air leak, and will never run right, or at all till that is corrected.
