Chain sharpening.

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The link wont open I'll check Amazon and see if I can find it

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Practice doing it by hand.

IMO,

Unless you are doing this for a living and are sharpening a TON of chains daily...... just do it by hand.

Chain “generally” will last longer because you can get away with taking less off. If you want to, run a skip chain. Less sharpening




Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
Skip is quicker to sharpen......but you have to sharpen more often.
Lol
 
Also, what really helped me learn how to sharpen is the Husky guide. Pretty hard to not file correctly with it. It also has the raker gauge with it. Raker height is very important as well as sharpness. You can make a good cutting chain with the guide and raker gauge without really knowing how to sharpen. If you get one and need help with understanding how to use it feel free to PM me. Took me a bit to figure it out and youtube wasnt all that helpful

https://www.amazon.com/Husqvarna-531300082-325-Inch-Pixel-Chain/dp/B0035AKJLC/ref=sr_1_4?crid=GB33ZNFYWF6I&keywords=husqvarna+file+guide+.325&qid=1560976543&s=gateway&sprefix=husqvarna+file+,aps,199&sr=8-4

Seeing as I have two of those guides and gave up trying to see how they work (I'm sure it's user error), I don't suppose you'd be able to describe it? I am happy-ish with my hand filing, especially as I have to manually drag everything out of the way to a burn pile when I'm done, so it's not like I'm cutting a huge amount. So a break to go through and sharpen while drinking (water) is a welcome respite.
 
The file & guide does the upper edge of the tooth at the correct angles. The gullet in the picture of your chain, you need to file lower towards the chain link. I even file the gullet a tad under the tooth like almost a fish hook. Any file n guide will work with any size chain the size of the file matters.

Try doing the gullet on 3/8” chain with a 7/32” file. Then put a 4.5mm file in the file n guide to file the upper edge of the tooth. That’s my secret to my speed cutting race chain. The chips are curling without hitting the top of the gullet. Try it. I set the rakers around .035”
 
Has your wife seen her coffee table yet?

Just, either one of my vices, would squash that table. My vices are lagged onto a 3" X 12" X 2 1/2' piece of oak and through bolted onto my work benches.

The oak is nice as the vice won't move and bolts screw up the bench, and you can put things on the oak, and beat the crap out of it not hurting bench. I'll try to get some pictures....
 
Before and afyer pics of my gullet
2e48272bfdeaef6a73a9ac6bb162cfa3.jpg
433407c80ee11a07c05c070b7f5bf2bb.jpg


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These are some old pics. I don’t use the guide anymore but it helped with learning.
100CA68A-514E-4AC8-B748-C855FA47CE63.jpeg CD3809BC-773F-4F97-8AF6-4BDA7BDE7A23.jpeg
 
You got a perdy gullet boy.......

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That thing looks really helpful and only 19$

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So,how important is the edge of the gullet or do I just need a good hook?

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Just, either one of my vices, would squash that table. My vices are lagged onto a 3" X 12" X 2 1/2' piece of oak and through bolted onto my work benches.

The oak is nice as the vice won't move and bolts screw up the bench, and you can put things on the oak, and beat the crap out of it not hurting bench. I'll try to get some pictures....
My bench top is 3" by 24" by 7', Red Oak. That bugger was heavy getting up on the ends. You can beat the devil out of it.
 
My bench top is 3" by 24" by 7', Red Oak. That bugger was heavy getting up on the ends. You can beat the devil out of it.

Yes, for some reason, on a bench, or next to/worked on a vice, parts sometimes just need a good WACK! Even though hard the oak won't bugger up the metal part. I keep some 1" plate steel handy when it needs real beating, but not quite on the anvil.

P.S. Rarefish, you must be a Mopar guy? My best friend has a 67 formula S 383, and a 70 440 4-spd, Dana, track pack.
 
My new work bench is on hold. I’m thinking about a new kitchen table made from the laminated rock maple bench tops. Buy the top and make legs for it.
 

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