Best type of clamps for low pressure side of log splitter pump?

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sevensandeights

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I have a TSC County Line 25 ton splitter. I bought it 3 years ago so it is not the same as the current generation. I think mine is made by Speeco.

Anyways, I have small leak from the line that goes from my tank to the pump. There are Oetiker type clamps on each end of the hose. The hose will not come off the nipple but rotates around easily. There are no obvious holes in the line and the leak is very minor overall but is worse when the fluid is hot.

EcorWf7.jpg


I would like to replace the clamps - any suggestions? I have regular hose clamps but am wary of the worm gear tearing the hose. I also have CV boot clamps with the tension tool.
 
You should drain the HYD. tank and change the barb fitting and the hose plus a better clamp,check out Surplus Center...
 
That one likely has no adjustment and the tubing has changed in three years.
I'd first try to cut that one off and go with a standard (wider) radiator clamp with a 5/16 or 3/8 adjustment head. You dont need to drain it for this exercise. I hear those clear hoses do not last long in the sun, so when you change it out, you can change to a barbed fitting.
 
A T bolt clamp is what to use on proper suction hose. Like 100r4 line.

Probably could just try that on the clear hose, though I'd consider replacing it with proper hose.

Not sure what that clear stuff is. I'd guess it's "good enough and cheap" hose.
 
My splitter is stored inside so minimal chance of sun degradation at this point. I will definitely keep an eye on it though and upgrade when the need arises.

T-bolt clamp looks like it would be perfect for now. Thanks for the suggestion.
 
My DHT 22 ton splitter uses the same type of hose for that location/function. It seeps a very small amount of hyd. oil, no matter how tight you make the clamp. (I put a high quality worm gear drive clamp on mine.)
It still seeps, a little. It probably only amounts to about a dozen drops of fluid over a 2 month period.

I believe the issue is with the spiral anti-collapsing wire, internal of the hose. The clamp cannot make a complete seal against the hose and barb. Metal wire on metal hose barb.

What is the proper hose one would replace this style with?

Is this the stuff? https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Hose-and-Hose-Assemblies/Return-Suction-Hose/
 
I would try a couple new clamps first.
Typical gear clamp may work, or may bite into the vinyl and distort it.

Gear clamps or t bolt clamps made for soft hoses have a continuous metal layer inside of the gear teeth part, so the layer in contact with the hose is a smooth continuous metal strip. Keeps the hose material from extruding into the gear teeth slots. Typically used for silicone or other soft coolant hoses.

The clear hose may have the spring internally so it makes a bump.
The spiral is needed to keep hose from collapsing, especially when the vinyl is warm.
Hose can take vast pressure but almost no suction when not reinforced.
True hydraulic suction hose has the spiral molded in between the layers, so the inner tube is a smooth layer.
 
Before you tighten the new clamp down. Soften the hose with a propane torch. It will help it seal into the barbs better. Like said above you shouldn’t have to take the hose off. Just warm enough so that it is soft and playable.
 
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