346xp Frustration

[SpaceBus]

Hello, I just made an account, but I've lurked for a few years.

I recently bought a used 45cc 346 on ebay for probably $100 too much, but definitely too much since it's given me nothing but issues. For the last year or so I've been bucking and felling with a Husqvarna 460, but I got tired of what felt like slinging an anvil around. My local Husqvarna/Stihl/Tractor dealer just had a total staff change out and can't seem to get their head's out of their behinds. This means they don't have any Husky saws and their Stihl selection is completely lacking currently. So in comes the used 346xp. It came with a 3/8 drive sprocket and 24" bar which I changed out for a .325 .50 66 dl chain with an ultralight 16" bar. For about three tanks of fuel this saw was awesome, but then it started idling funny and not wanting to run. I figured the 75f ambient temp and full sun was the culprit and decided to take a break anyway. Now the saw won't start at all.

The reality of a bum deal on the saw was always on my mind, so a backup plan has been in the works. I was hoping the saw would live a little longer because I wanted learn how to rebuilt the whole thing myself, maybe buy a spare "long block" so to speak for learning porting and polishing. Right now I'm elbow deep in rebuilding my house, so no time to mess around with the saw. After running a few tanks in the 460 and bucking up some logs I marked ahead of time has me wanting the 346 fixed. Now comes in more issues: Every single person I've found that has been mentioned as a good saw builder has been too busy or no longer does the work. Can someone please get me in touch with a good work saw builder? I'm sure it would be cheaper to just fix the 346. However, if I'm spending any more money on this saw, it needs to just last me many more years and be as good as a 550xp I could have bought by the time the 346 is hypothetically returned to a new OEM state mechanically.

Pardon my rambling and venting. It's been a long four days rebuilding the Eastern wall of my house and I haven't been able to deal with the saw since this all went down a week ago.

 

[BJD85]

Theres is alot of really helpful people on this site. Be patient some one will offer you a deal. Ive never used anyone here because I'm learning to do all work myself but everyone seems really competent in their their craft. You might want to think about trading the saw for one thats already been fixed up and maybe pay a little on top. Maybe that will help get Something a bit lighter and save some valuable time. I was offered a beauty of a saw last night but I just bought one.

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[SpaceBus]

Theres is alot of really helpful people on this site. Be patient some one will offer you a deal. Ive never used anyone here because I'm learning to do all work myself but everyone seems really competent in their their craft. You might want to think about trading the saw for one thats already been fixed up and maybe pay a little on top. Maybe that will help get Something a bit lighter and save some valuable time. I was offered a beauty of a saw last night but I just bought one.

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I would be willing to trade plus some cash for a reliable saw of equal weight and power, but my dealer won't be able to facilitate that for quite some time. I don't don't have any brand loyalty and my equipment shed houses Stihl and Husky products. A dive into the manual and a little diagnosis will probably help and maybe get me a better deal. Part of this is the lack of current dealer support while they figure out their staff. If nothing works out maybe I'll be learning how to do this myself as well.

 

[JohnT34]

What year is the 346xp
Does it have the orange or grey clips on the top cover ( orange is early model grey is later model)
From what you are describing it sounds like an air leak if it has erratic idle - is the saw racing at idle or what is it exactly doing
Does it currently run or not and does it have compression
The symptoms could indicate an air leak at the intake clamp or pto side bearing from my experience as these are primary culprits for failure in the 346xp
If you have a major air leak of course the damage to the piston and cylinder would be a major concern
I’d rebuild it for you no problem but I am in Ireland



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[JohnT34]

Early model 2005 to 2009 I bet


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[SpaceBus]

I believe it to be an earlier 346 since it has the orange clips and clutch cover. The saw does not currently run and it had no issues prior to a weird idle (saw would cut off, but start just fine) after running most of a tank of gas on a warm sunny day and then refusing to start an hour later. Allegedly the saw had 140 psi of compression (verified via photo) before coming to me. Did I kill the saw by not adjusting the carb? It ran perfectly fine so I didn't really think it needed to be tuned or anything. Unfortunately I don't have a compression tester (I should get one though), but the spark plug looks pretty normal. Would a photo of the plug be helpful?

 

[Andyshine77]

Yeah check the intake boot clamp, they fail and will cause an air leak. A temporary fix can be done by using a wire tie to tight the plastic clam and prevent the clip form slipping. A pressure/vac test is definitely in order. The 346 is a great saw, buying used always comes with a risk, it's also a 15 year old saw now.[emoji111]

 

[computeruser]

Plugs tell you nothing. The only time I pull one is to stick a rope in the cylinder to use as a piston stop when pulling a clutch.

Perhaps try baselining carb settings and starting from there.

Pull muffler and inspect piston condition.

 

[SpaceBus]

Yeah check the intake boot clamp, they fail and will cause an air leak. A temporary fix can be done by using a wire tie to tight the plastic clam and prevent the clip form slipping. A pressure/vac test is definitely in order. The 346 is a great saw, buying used always comes with a risk, it's also a 15 year old saw now.[emoji111]

Indeed, it is old for a saw. I'll do a little more digging after my hands stop hurting from working on the house. The air filter fits tightly, but how do I know if it is actually tight enough? This is the first time I've ever done more than sharpen a chain, so far my saws have been flawless but also bought new.

 

[SpaceBus]

Plugs tell you nothing. The only time I pull one is to stick a rope in the cylinder to use as a piston stop when pulling a clutch.

Perhaps try baselining carb settings and starting from there.

Pull muffler and inspect piston condition.

Thanks for the advice, I'll check it all out and set the carb to base tune as well when I get some time.

 

[SpaceBus]

I will say, the pull cord doesn't have the same feeling as it did before the issues. I am also suspecting a total loss on the rotating assembly. At this point I can only really assume it's a parts saw and would like to send it to a professional to have it ported with a 50cc jug or something similar. However, I'm just salty since I spent $350 on the saw for it to fail on me really fast. I'm probably looking at ~$300 or so for a decent running saw either way, but that's what it would cost just to get it ported, much less with new engine stuff. At least my house is fixed.

 

[blsnelling]

45cc is the OE version. If the topend need replaced, OEM 50cc is <$100.

 

[JohnT34]

Really the first point of call is to remove the muffler and inspect the condition of the piston
Depending on what you see there you can make an informed decision on the next steps and potential costs that would be involved



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[TRTermite]

Pull muffler and inspect piston condition.

for sure

 

[SpaceBus]

It's pissing rain right now and I don't have a covered work area currently (the existing tiny shed is full of remodeling stuff), but I did order a compression testing kit. I'll pull the muffler when the rain lets up a bit. Are there any good books (real ones with paper) I can read about small two strokes and/or porting?

 

[TRTermite]

It's pissing rain right now and I don't have a covered work area currently (the existing tiny shed is full of remodeling stuff), but I did order a compression testing kit. I'll pull the muffler when the rain lets up a bit. Are there any good books (real ones with paper) I can read about small two strokes and/or porting?

Reading these forums have helped me more than books but that is my Opinion.

 

[SpaceBus]

Reading these forums have helped me more than books but that is my Opinion.

Indeed, but books work without electricity, my router does not.

 

[SpaceBus]

Thanks for all of the replies so far!

 

[TRTermite]

Indeed, but books work without electricity, my router does not.

I read a LOT but tor me I stumble onto answers that are hard to find in a book because you have a lot of contributing advice continuously evolving

 

[TRTermite]

Indeed, but books work without electricity, my router does not.

And the right book is sometimes evasive to find