346xp early model squish problems

[Wornkknobby3]

So I’ve been searching and what I’ve come up with is the squish around .019-.022 that guys say Ian a safe spot.
Well I’m measuring right now with no gasket and I’m getting .065 all around... is maybe the solder I’m using not soft enough to mush enough?
It’s 50/50 lead core. Thanks guys

 

[old guy]

Yeah that's hard, probably too big also, I use .031 solder.

 

[Wornkknobby3]

Ok I’ll see if I can find something thinner. So those measurements I have seem way off? The solder did flatten on both sides to mic it out but just seemed too high of a number.

 

[JohnT34]

For sure squish will be down to 20 thousands on a 346xp on an early or late edition after a base gasket removal
Is the cylinder oem or aftermarket


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[Wornkknobby3]

Looks to be oem

 

[Mad Professor]

Get some thin lead solder used for small electrical work

 

[Wornkknobby3]

Ok sounds good, I’ll try that and get back. Was initially replacing the old plastic clamp on the intake and had to pull the cylinder since I got the new boot and clamp, figured while I was there I might as well check squish and possibly bump up compression slightly. Warm was about 150psi. Rips good but once that boot started leaking she would lean right out.

 

[Mad Professor]

Ok sounds good, I’ll try that and get back. Was initially replacing the old plastic clamp on the intake and had to pull the cylinder since I got the new boot and clamp, figured while I was there I might as well check squish and possibly bump up compression slightly. Warm was about 150psi. Rips good but once that boot started leaking she would lean right out.

Check your ring gap while you are in there. It's only another $10-15 for a ring and then you know that is fresh.

 

[Wornkknobby3]

Ok, what’s spec on ring gap by chance

 

[cuinrearview]

For the price of a ring(a caber on Ebay is less than $10), I'd just do it since you have it apart. That said, when I measure them I start to think about replacing once they're over about .010.

 

[Mad Professor]

For the price of a ring(a caber on Ebay is less than $10), I'd just do it since you have it apart. That said, when I measure them I start to think about replacing once they're over about .010.

What he said.

Square ring in bore using the top of piston, to push it into the bore. Then feeler gauges

 

[Wornkknobby3]

Sounds good guys. I’ll measure it just to see where it’s at and get some fresh parts on order.

 

[Wornkknobby3]

Meteor piston kit $28.00 no brainer might as well like you guys said. Cheap enough.
New carb kit installed and some anerobic gasket sealer I was going to use on the new intake boot.

 

[JohnT34]

Just a quick question
When you used the solder which measured at 0.06 did you actually turn the engine over fully to ensure your squish measurement was accurate
I.e. you didn’t just run the piston up until it jammed solid and then took that value as the squish clearance


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[Wornkknobby3]

I ran the piston up and down about 10 times in all 4 quadrants but was using that thick 50/50 solder. The flat part measured the .065

 

[Wornkknobby3]

Back at it guys, squish measured using the thing solder and no base gasket got me .032”. I’ll measure up the stock gasket and see how much I’ll loose if I decide to delete.

 

[Wornkknobby3]

Gasket is about .020” as a used gasket. I’ll delete and put the new top end in and report from there.

 

[Andyshine77]

Make sure to take your measurement at the very tip of the solder.

 

[Wornkknobby3]

Good call. .028” at the very tip

 

[Andyshine77]

That's still .010" more than normal, get yourself some more appropriate solder and recheck.[emoji111]