New Beginner Chainsaw

[Wreckage]

Hello,

I am in the market for a chainsaw.

I did as much reading as I could over many places before deciding to ask here.

I am interested in either a Stihl or a Husqvarna.

Living in Australia I looked at the different spec models available for similar prices.

I understand there is a 50/50 split who likes what and why, so I am not looking at that.

What I am trying to gauge is which is going to cut faster. At the end of the day thats what matters, am I going to be cutting for 1 hour or 2 hours because the saw was slower.

Having this in mind... I am trying to understand these specs:

Example:

Stihl MS180 - 1.5kw, 4.10kg. $299
Husqvarna 120mk ii - 1.4kw, 4.85kg. $350

Stihl MS211 - 1.7kw, 4.30kg. $599
Husqvarna 435e series 2 - 1.6kw, 4.40kg. $699

etc etc.

My point is what I am tryng to figure out is these numbers.

If I buy a stihl for the same cost or cheaper than a husqvarna all the models at the same price range the stihl is always lighter and has more KW.

Look at professional models or anything such as the XP husqvarna 572 vs Stihl MS 462 (Stihl lighter more kw) or the Husqvarna 440 e series 2, 1.8kw while stihl MS 251 has 2.2kw and so on.

It seems based on like for like (cost wise) there is always more KW in the stihl for the price of the husqvarna, with husqvana you gotta spend more to get the kw.

Now the only thing I do notice is that the Huskies all come with more CC but less KW than stihl. So larger engine but less power.

Looking at buying a first time chainsaw, there is no"which one dis you grow up using" or whatever. Its simply which cuts faster.

mS Stihl 180 with 1.5kW or Husky 120mkii with 1.4kw?

What about if i go ms211 or husky 435 etc?

Just trying to figure out which ones giving me more for less $. Based on paper Stihls giving more kw and lighter saw for same or less cost than husqvarna is... But as everything in life there may be more to what makes a saw cut faster/slower and those numbers may not mean anything and that is why im here trying to figure out do i buy stihl or husqvarna.

Being in Australia Ill be cutting Iron bark and yellowbox etc which are all one of the hardest/dense woods in the world.

 

[mikerudder]

If you are cutting hard dense wood you are going to want to get way more saw than an MS211 or husky 435.

How big of wood are you going to cut? What size bar do you need?

 

[Wreckage]

Well... that would come into the whole "size, power etc", at the moment... I am only cutting small stuff, that are all just random gum trees. (Thick branches that fall off the tree) and its taking me all day with a hand saw. So I figured a cheap chainsaw will save my arm. I am not chopping trees down, Just cutting the stuff for firewood that I am collecting around the property. Later in life when I find myself doing much more of this work (if that happens) then I will concern myself about size of bars, size of wood wanting to cut etc.

For now... I am just trying to figure out where to start, Husky or Stihl (as original post reasons) and when I get to chopping trees, or doing stuff more often and larger, then I will be back to ask about bar sizes etc

I guess what brought this question was that every website I been reading is saying that the Husqvarna are targeted at the professional (loggers etc) more while Stihl is more targeted at the home owner because the same (equivalent) model Husqvarna comes with a stronger engine etc... yet the specs to me are saying the Stihl is always having more KW even if the CC is lower. So thats where I am trying to work out what is what

 

[TreePointer]

With your approach, at best you're going to waste your time compiling a spreadsheet of data to determine whether Stihl or Husqvarna is marginally better, on average, based on price/Kw or power-to-weight ratio across entire product lines. It will give you an interesting statistic that doesn't help you get a saw in your hands and cutting wood.

(Example: An automaker can have have a better aggregate rating/score across its entire fleet, yet still not have the best performing half-ton pickup truck in the market or the one that best fits your needs.)

Both Sthil and Husqvarna are well respected chainsaw makers. They both have professional product offerings that pros swear by. You'll find some regions of the world in which most pros use Stihl saws and others where they prefer Husqvarna. It has less to do with which brand is the top performer and more to do with regional availability, price after taxes/import costs, and regional or professional traditions.

It's the same for homeowner saws. They both have homeowner offerings that are top performers for what they're intended to do, and they both have saws that are perform below other models in a particular class. There is no clear winner with respect to manufacturer. The point is when you determine what class of saw you want/need, the next step is to compare models within that particular class--across all manufacturers.

 

[TreePointer]

A lot of questions get answered when you visit dealers and get the saws in your hands. You might find that they all feel like they're in the same weight class, so weight won't be the determining factor. It's possible you'll find that the heavier saw (based on specifications) actually is less bulky and better balanced, and therefore just feels better.

 

[Wreckage]

Well I figured I would start with something cheap, use it for what I need, and as time arose for needing more, then I could buy more in future.

I understand statistics don't cut wood, I do, but when you need to spend some money, what I didn't want to do is, go out there buy the MS180 for example (stihl) and only realise, if I spent that same money on a Husqvarna I would of been saving time cutting because it cut better/faster (or vice versa).

I wanted to get a feel for all the offerings I was interested in (the now and future) to see which brand seemed to appeal to me more in the cheap area, the middle of the road, and, the professional range, so as the need arises to upgrade to a more professional saw, I won't be changing brands and having to 'get used to it'.

Regarding what is available, I haven't been anywhere in Australia where you can't buy either a Stihl or a Husqvarna, so to me both are as readily available as each other, making that a no-difference choice.

So all the stuff I looked at that interested me was:

Low Range:

Stihl MS-180 - 1.5kw/4.1kg/31.8cc --- 1.5kw/4.7kg/38.2cc - Husk 130

Mid Range:

Stihl MS-251 - 2.2kw/4.8kg/45.6cc --- 2.1kw/5.1kg/45.7cc - Husk 445-e series II

Pro Range:

Stihl MS-462 CM - 4.4kw/6.0kg/72.2cc --- 4.3kw/6.6kg/70.6cc - Husk 572 XP

If I bother even looking at the 661CM vs Husk 390XP or the MS880 Magnum stihl vs 3120XP husk... The results on 'paper' seem the same, Stihl always has a little more KW and a bit less weight.

So from the ranges I am looking at to the pro range, the pattern seems the same.

Only one where I found the CC to be very different yet same power outut was the MS180 vs Husk 130. Both 1.5kw, but stihl is 31.8cc while husk was 38.2cc (also stihl was 600 grams lighter).

So that is what I am trying to gauge, do those figures mean a damn thing in the real world, or in real world the husqvarna (the models I am comparing above in that order) is going to cut faster than the compared stihl models I put even though the stihl models have more kw and lighter weight?

That is what I want to know because whichever I buy is pretty much what I will stick with, so I don't want X amount of $ going on a 'slower' cutting machine.

Those models I compared:

Stihl - Ms 180 vs Husk 130
Stihl MS-251 vs Husk 445-e Series II
Stihl MS 462cm vs Husk 572 XP

all cost within $50 of each other and ability to buy stuff etc is identical between both. I can just as easily buy Huskies as I can Stihl's as they are both everywhere here and comfort wise I never used either one, so whichever I buy will be a "getting used to it" factor, so again, I don't know if that will matter either then.

So which ones will cut through wood faster, the huskies with slightly less KW in each comparison and more weight, or will the stihls? Me standing outside for a longer period of time with the same amount of money spent = bad. So that to me is the deal breaker. I spend $500, I want to be out there 1 hour not 2 hours due to 'slower' machine that cost the same.

 

[Ryan'smilling]

The one that will cut faster is the one with the sharper chain. Learning how to sharpen your chain is the single most important factor in having a saw cut correctly. If you're new to saws, I'd suggest buying one from the dealer that's the most patient and friendly, who has a good supply of parts in stock. Until you get to the 50+cc pro saws, none of the saws you're looking at will be fast. They'll get the job done though.

 

[Natster]

A sharp chain, will always cut better.

 

[holeycow]

You standing outside rather than inside is always good

Don’t get caught up in “faster”

Spend a little more and buy a professional quality saw

Brand doesn’t matter

 

[Franny K]

Those kw figures are max figures that occur at a specific rpm. They may or may not give a good comparison as to how they seem to cut in reality. I have a couple of 1.7 kw saws and one cuts better than the other. Dolmar 351 vs Husqvarna 338xpt. I got a Stihl 251 because of the sprocket choices, there is a 7 tooth rim drive kit for their picco 63 class chains.

Generally Husqvarna stuff you can buy on line point and click. Stihl I need to go in person and may get stuck in line. And may have to return after what I want comes in.

 

[Haironyourchest]

If I understand correctly, this is your first time doing serious chansawing....if so, I would go for a cheap no-name box store saw, or a working but cheap used saw of any make. Chances are, you will subject the saw to a lot of abuse (unintentionally) as you learn the ropes. Sub-optimal chain sharpening, over revving, under revving, forcing, running the fuel tank dry, forgetting to fill the oil tank, not cleaning the bar oiler holes, over/under tentioning the chain, getting dirt in the nose sprocket, rocking the chain, goosing from cold, sudden shutoff when hot, not cleaning the air filter, getting crap in the intake when you do clean the air filter, not cleaning out the internals....not saying you will necessarily do any or all of these things, but there is a good chance that you will - I certainly did. And they all contribute to premature wear and failure. My thinking is it's better to make the mistakes with a cheap saw, and invest money when you are ready for a good one. I ruined a thousand euro saw because of one simple mistake (underrevving) and I'd been doing this for years.

 

[bowtechmadman]

I'd keep looking if speed is your top concern. What size wood are you cutting? Right tool for the job always important so if you are cutting 32" logs/trees with an 18" bar being pulled by a Stihl MS180 you will be there 3times longer than if you were running a 36" bar on a ported Stihl 661 or Husky 395.

 

[holeycow]

If I understand correctly, this is your first time doing serious chansawing....if so, I would go for a cheap no-name box store saw, or a working but cheap used saw of any make. Chances are, you will subject the saw to a lot of abuse (unintentionally) as you learn the ropes. Sub-optimal chain sharpening, over revving, under revving, forcing, running the fuel tank dry, forgetting to fill the oil tank, not cleaning the bar oiler holes, over/under tentioning the chain, getting dirt in the nose sprocket, rocking the chain, goosing from cold, sudden shutoff when hot, not cleaning the air filter, getting crap in the intake when you do clean the air filter, not cleaning out the internals....not saying you will necessarily do any or all of these things, but there is a good chance that you will - I certainly did. And they all contribute to premature wear and failure. My thinking is it's better to make the mistakes with a cheap saw, and invest money when you are ready for a good one. I ruined a thousand euro saw because of one simple mistake (underrevving) and I'd been doing this for years.

And this is good advice too!!

 

[Ryan'smilling]

I'd keep looking if speed is your top concern. What size wood are you cutting? Right tool for the job always important so if you are cutting 32" logs/trees with an 18" bar being pulled by a Stihl MS180 you will be there 3times longer than if you were running a 36" bar on a ported Stihl 661 or Husky 395.

Probably more like 10x as long if you're talking ms180 vs ported 90+cc saws.

 

[TreePointer]

Where I am, surrounded by northeastern USA hardwoods, most folks who regularly make their own firewood eventually end up with two saws and sometimes three that get regular use.

1. Start with a decent 50cc saw with a 16-18" bar. Cut with it and you may not ever feel the need for a different saw. If I had to get rid of all but one of my saws, I'd keep the 50cc saw, as I use it the most. If you get a pro or pro-like model for the saw you use the most, you'll be happiest IMO. Never buyer's remorse.

2. If you later need something bigger, add a 70+cc saw to your stable.

3. If you later realize a small limbing saw would help your back and arms during long cutting sessions, add a lightweight 30-40cc-ish model.

 

[SteveH]

For years I cut all our firewood with a 50 cc Stihl. These were mostly 6 to 12" diameter trunks. Then I moved up to a 60 cc Stihl. Either size is a really good all-around saw, not so heavy that cutting up limbs is hard on the arms, big enough to cut up the occasional 20" tree. I use an 18" bar on the 50 cc, 20" bar on the 60 cc.

Then a big windstorm hit in 2011, 115 mph, took down a bunch of 25-30" trees. I bought a 70 cc Stihl with a 25" bar.

The two smaller saws will do 90% of what I need. As others have mentioned, a sharpened chain will make all the difference, whichever saw you get. I often tell people who ask about how big a saw they should get, that a sharp chain is worth another 10 cc. of engine size. I made that up, don't have exact evidence for that exact number, but probably close.

If I were you, I'd look at something in the 50 cc size, or if you know you'll be needing a bit more, maybe go for the 60 cc, such as Stihl 362.

Haven't used a Husky, but lots of people love them, so you're probably good either brand.

 

[computeruser]

Get a decent 50-cc saw with a 15-16” bar and you will be set. Skip the little saws (ms180, 211, etc) if you can - they are ultimately less versatile and will cut slower than I think is tolerable once you get into wood >6”.

 

[Wreckage]

So, you suggesting I get 50cc +/-, which would be something like either a:

Stihl MS-291 or Husky 450 E-series 2?

Thing about that... it goes from $300-$400 up to $1000-$1100. (Then need all the related gear with it to price on top).

Looking at my situation... this is the first time I got myself a wood heater, need to chop wood because buying it is damn expensive (feels like electricity would be cheaper) and this place where I am living has more than enough wood lying around the property (small stuff like 4-5" max with the occasional 15cm log to use.

Having been cutting all this with 1: Handsaw thats rusted, 2: a power saw that is designed for 2x4 carpentry type work, I figured even a $250 MS170/MS180 would be a FAR better improvement and cheap enough to just go tomorrow and get it and start using it, learning the ropes, learning to sharpen, learning to take care of it etc.

That is why I wasn't thinking the 'better off with bigger' because I think with my situation its probably better to see how often I need to use it and to learn the ropes, in which case the smaller/cheaper is probably better for me until I know what I'm doing and how often I really would be using it rather than having a $1000 saw sitting in the garage for 8-10 months a year collecting dust because I thought it was going to be cool using it but in end just didn't work out that way.

Regarding buying some no-name brand, I can go to bunnings here and buy some random whatever they call them homelites, ozito stuff $100-$150, but how that will feel/design etc... I figured better of putting that 100-150 towards $300 and get stihl/husqvarna and just avoid whatever headaches would come with one of those, maintence, servicing, parts etc.

 

[MountainHigh]

So in summary, you want a good runner, least expensive saw that will cut 4 inch to 5 inch sticks to speed up the task of gathering firewood.

I`d suggest buying a Stihl MS 251 when on sale, with a 16 inch bar - or - a Husqvarna 445 when on sale with a 16 inch bar. Both are decent little consumer grade saws but will cut a lot of firewood, more than you need now, they will cut many cords of wood should you start looking at larger sticks in the future - These are nice learning saws, not too intimidating for first time users, have more power than you need for 5 inch sticks, are not too expensive, yet will grow with you as your skill level and likely future desire for gathering larger wood increases.

I would avoid any larger heavy and bulky consumer grade saws like the 271 or 291, as once you get to the place where you need that bit of extra power, you want to go with a pro level saw.

On the other hand, if you are absolutely sure you will never want to cut anything larger than 5 inches, then get any tiny saw you like off the shelf like an MS180.

Either way, even a little saw can sever an artery and kill you, so study up on safe usage technique and wear safety gear.

 

[lil171]

I like the suggestion of an MS 170 or newer MS 171 saws if you are going the cheaper route to see if you need more and to get experience. A MS 171 was my first quality saw, but upgraded to a 16" .050 bar and chain. I went in to get the 170, but for the few extra $$, I went with the newer design for a few nicer upgraded features. It has been very good so far, and I am also new to the wood cutting game for personal use bonfires.