Stihl 026 questions

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Look forward to seeing them, muffler mod is my next thing to do after I get parts I'm waiting on. Thanks
Be careful... If this saw is pre-1996 (which I think it is) your existing muffler is already modded... by the manufacturer! Mufflers have been getting more restricted due to EPA requirements which didn't yet exist when your saw was born. Your existing muffler cover will probably look like the the 4-holer in the photos below. Opening it up more probably won't gain you much in performance but likely increase the noise level a LOT.
 
Be careful... If this saw is pre-1996 (which I think it is) your existing muffler is already modded... by the manufacturer! Mufflers have been getting more restricted due to EPA requirements which didn't yet exist when your saw was born. Your existing muffler cover will probably look like the the 4-holer in the photos below. Opening it up more probably won't gain you much in performance but likely increase the noise level a LOT.
Be careful... If this saw is pre-1996 (which I think it is) your existing muffler is already modded... by the manufacturer! Mufflers have been getting more restricted due to EPA requirements which didn't yet exist when your saw was born. Your existing muffler cover will probably look like the the 4-holer in the photos below. Opening it up more probably won't gain you much in performance but likely increase the noise level a LOT.
15618403335558026655423759865223.jpg 15618403335558026655423759865223.jpg 1561840415948501268469635214302.jpg
 
Other muffler I should source?
I think that you might get more bang for your buck with some carb work. Based on the inside of that muffler the saw is either running way too rich, bad/cheap oil, or too much oil.

Face it... that saw is 25+ years old. A carb kit would be cheap. Next on the hit parade would be rotting rubber whose failure can burn up your saw when it develops an air leak. Likely candidates:
- fuel line
- impulse hose
- intake manifold
- crankshaft seals
 
I think that you might get more bang for your buck with some carb work. Based on the inside of that muffler the saw is either running way too rich, bad/cheap oil, or too much oil.

Face it... that saw is 25+ years old. A carb kit would be cheap. Next on the hit parade would be rotting rubber whose failure can burn up your saw when it develops an air leak. Likely candidates:
- fuel line
- impulse hose
- intake manifold
- crankshaft seals

Agree completely, been doing this and that as $ allows. For sure pulling carb off for a look see and prob a kit. Will ask around here if anyone has one for sale, as getting them shipped up here in AK can take a while. It's also spitting too much bar oil, havent gotten clutch off yet to see what's up down there. Prob a cracked line. All tips welcome. I'm doing this rebuild to learn, not to try and master anything.
 
Agree completely, been doing this and that as $ allows. For sure pulling carb off for a look see and prob a kit. Will ask around here if anyone has one for sale, as getting them shipped up here in AK can take a while.

Will need the carb model # to get the right kit. Probably a WT-22 or WT-194. Both kits should be readily available either locally or Ebay. BTW, ONLY use genuine OEM kits!

It's also spitting too much bar oil, haven't gotten clutch off yet to see what's up down there. Prob a cracked line.

These can do that since you likely have the early version with the engine driven pump. Pumps oil as long as the engine is running... not just cutting. This is why I don't like this version. Half of your oil ends up in the wood and the other half all over the saw!

Oil line is also cheap and readily available. Pickup is reusable. Output hose can be standard Stihl 3.1x5.7mm fuel hose as long as you still have the brass output nipple.

P.S. check your PM inbox.
 
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