Pioneer chainsaws

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Also still having trouble with the damn recoil. Catches when it feels like it last start, ripped the cord out. What a crap design.
For the recoil, its a Fairbanks style, so if the cup on the flywheel is worn then the teeth on the starter won't grab it consistently.
Also it needs to be clean and not oiled on the friction washers.

I usually find those two things are common issues. I bore out the cup on the lathe and then turn an insert for it, usually about a 0.005" interference fit on diameter, then mill some slight grooves and they grab every time.

If you don't want to order replacement friction washers, you can make them, but its a pain.
20160319_130524.jpg
 



Pioneer 425076---CR6541
Pioneer 425077---CR6582


Clutch seal Dichtomatic or TC 17x40x8TC.
Mag seal TC 17x32x8TC.
Crank bearings SKF 6203-2Z/C3GJN
One of each for the RA, 600 series, J series, and 800.

Look here for info IPL's and manuals

https://www.mediafire.com/?sharekey=dc217a780ab47e4eab1eab3e9fa335cadf247fc782d61f10
Is the seal the next part immediately following the washer behind the clutch drum? It looks that way in the IPL but what I'm seeing in front of me doesnt really look like a seal.
 
Morning guys
Just surfing this morning and saw this thread
My local husky dealer just bought out a old guys pioneer parts etc.
lots of nos stuff and some cases.
Pm if interested and I’ll hook you up with him [emoji106]


Sent from Hoskey Hills
 
Does anyone have a list of bar mounts that are compatible with the D007 for the large P/P's? Looking to convert a P62 from 3/8's .050 hardnose to same in a sprocket tip. Not afraid of some slot filing/spacers or drilling/dremeling to get the slot and oil holes right. I see Bryce has a 32" D007 with chain on the bay but I'm leaning toward a 36" and hoping for other mounting pattern options (with minimal modification) to widen the selection choices a bit.

TIA as usual for any enlightenment.
 
Does anyone have a list of bar mounts that are compatible with the D007 for the large P/P's? Looking to convert a P62 from 3/8's .050 hardnose to same in a sprocket tip. Not afraid of some slot filing/spacers or drilling/dremeling to get the slot and oil holes right. I see Bryce has a 32" D007 with chain on the bay but I'm leaning toward a 36" and hoping for other mounting pattern options (with minimal modification) to widen the selection choices a bit.

TIA as usual for any enlightenment.
D009 is pretty easy to convert over. Just open the slot a little, and could open the oil holes a little.
 
'Preciate it, Pete. Very nice!

Truth be told, it looks like my P62 may be going to a new home where it'll get used a lot more by someone who will really appreciate it. He's a little green and wants it for milling but has a pretty good idea what he'll be getting. It's got a 32" 3/8's hardnose on it now that tends to run pretty warm as it is and I'm highly recommending a sprocket nose bar to replace it. He wants to go 36" and stay 3/8's. Just trying to help him along the best I can.
 
'Preciate it, Pete. Very nice!

Truth be told, it looks like my P62 may be going to a new home where it'll get used a lot more by someone who will really appreciate it. He's a little green and wants it for milling but has a pretty good idea what he'll be getting. It's got a 32" 3/8's hardnose on it now that tends to run pretty warm as it is and I'm highly recommending a sprocket nose bar to replace it. He wants to go 36" and stay 3/8's. Just trying to help him along the best I can.
I know only what I read here about anything except a FarmSaw. Is it possible to increase the bar oil on that saw? If yes has he tried that?
I'm really surprised at how little both of my Husqvarna saws use and the adjustment has been altered, it's no longer infinite, now you can choose high, medium, or low. Both have been on high since I picked them up at the dealer.
 
It has a manual aux oiler for longer bars. Should flood a 36" b/c with just the regular oiler. And I haven't let it go just yet. Have some 28" ~ 30" red oak to buck this weekend and hope to give it a nice farewell workout. It's had a tendency to run a bit warm and I'd like to sort that out before selling it. Hoping it was just a dull chain and the hardnose bar heating it up the last time I ran it. Don't have a sprocket nose bar to try so will just put a little more slack in a fresh ground chain and see how it behaves with the hardnose again.
 
A hardnose definitely requires more slack, I run a few of them. On a broken in chain, I adjust just until there is no droop when cold.
 
On the model 600, how does one go about changing the main bearings? They seem a bit rough so I figured I should do them. The ipl makes it look like they kind of just come out the same as the seals but somehow I doubt it is that easy.
 
What that is describing is nothing like the way this saw is put together. I do appreciate the effort though.
 
They are far from easy to change out, it becomes evident once one is torn down.
Based on how far I currently have it torn down, it looks like the mag side bearing comes out with the Mag housing/engine side cover. I am assuming the crank would need to come out next in order to drive out the clutch side bearing from the the mag side. Dies this sound correct?
 
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