Crankbearings to change them or not to?....

[Huskybill]

I took the cylinder off of my second 2100. The crankbearings didn’t feel that bad. Now I removed the crankbearings and they feel like grit is in them but there clean. Not much play in them. But I can tell they won’t last much longer if I left them in there. My point is when the crankcase is together the crankbearings may feel ok but they could be bad. It’s worth changing them out anyway and add new seals too.

 

[drf255]

I’d swap them out. 90% of that job is labor, and you are there already.

Rolling a bearing in your hand is actually a pretty precise method of testing. They should be smooth. Any grittiness on a clean one means no bueno to me.

 

[Huskybill]

I’m just saying because many think the bearings are ok. But there not. They didn’t feel gritty till they were out of the case.

I learned on the old husky dirtbikes to rebuild the bottom end too. While the top end is being rebuilt. I feel it will bite you again if you don’t do thebseals and bearings. The most important thing is finding out why it seezed. If you don’t change the bearings and seals then leak test it. The problem should show up. Then you get to disassemble it again. Fun is. Do it once, do it right.

 

[Gord404]

Pretty sure they are the same seals and bearings as a 394-5 and a few other big bearing models, when in doubt change them out- speaking from experience.

 

[Ax-man]

Gotta question. Never worked on a Husky engine either. Are the crank bearings easier to change out on a Husky verses a Stihl ? I have done some Stihl but no Husky and it is just a job I try to avoid unless it is big saw worth the time and effort.

I recently got one of those Farmertec clutch side crankcase splitter and crankshaft puller for Stihl saws even though I don't have anything to take apart it would just be nice to have around. I played around with it on a 024 crankcase I had and it worked slick , saves time for sure. I know this won't work for a Husky but I am going to get the Husky tool some day.

After playing around with it I got on a case splitting kick to see if there are accessory tools to do advanced case splitting and bearing installation and pulling crankshafts into the bearings after you install them. I got some good pointers from the video site but the one thing I noticed was that most of those vids for case splitting was for Husky saws and very little Stihl . The 372 Husky seemed to be the one featured in those vids for changing out bearings. I have no idea if a 372 is prone to bearing trouble or not but it was suppose to be an easy job for novice chainsaw enthusiasts. Does that same apply to most Husky saws?

 

[Gord404]

You will probably find splitting Husqvarna cases quite easy making sure you find all the bolts and remove them, I did however widen the fingers a little bit to accommodate for 395s and 2100s, most saws I do are from 365 and up and usually takes me about 3/4 of an hour to have a complete saw apart cases and all, you do enough of these and you get to know them well.

 

[Huskybill]

I never split a husky case till I helped out my dealer I did a 2100 first. The built another 2100 from parts to race at the fair. The hardest thing is splitting the case. I have the tools to use in my press to get the crankbearings off the crank. A little heat will get the bearings out of the case. With the case splitter I made.

I split more dirtbike cases than I can count. Mainly older huskys. Suzuki’s, Honda’s, Yamaha, cajiva, ect.

 

[Ted Jenkins]

On dirt bikes a engine failure could be a life or death issue, but with chain saws the worst thing that could happen is you have to grab your spare or two. On dirt bikes at least every 100 hours all bearings have to be replaced and look for any worn gears or clutch parts. If I know a saw motor has really high hours then I consider putting in a new crank with a new con rod and bearings. I have a 056 that I put all bearings in it 20 years ago and was still running strong two years ago the last time I used it. Thanks