New guy needs first big one

[computeruser]

Oh goodness. Didn’t know that. The 271 feels and handles like crap, that I do know, though. That is not good.

 

[Dph1256]

Oh goodness. Didn’t know that. The 271 feels and handles like crap, that I do know, though. That is not good.

Hey I own one of those 271s. I haven't ever owned a pro 50cc saw so I can't compare the handling. However it always starts and it cut a lot of wood way to big for it before I bought a bigger saw.

 

[canamkayaker]

461 is worth every dime.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[rarefish383]

You said you are tending a plot of land. I grew up around farms, and a plot, was a kin to a building lot. What are you doing to tend it? Get standing dead wood on the ground. Clear trails? Thin under story? I'm not a good source for recommendations. I was raised in a fourth generation tree care family. Dad used all Homelites. Our climbers used Super EZ's, ground men XL12's, and Dad and I did most of the felling. We used XL900 series saws with up to 30" bars and Super 1050's with 36" bars. Dad bought saws for all of the men. They weren't actually assigned, but when he got a new one, and handed it to someone, it was their saw. Somewhere around 18-20 years old I got tired of ground men grabbing my XL12 and running it in the dirt, then sticking it back in my spot on the truck. I got one of the 100CC Super 1050's and put a 24" bar on it, and used it for my ground trimming saw, no one ever took my saw again. To me a saw is a saw. A few years ago I bought a new 660 as a mid size saw. I kept telling a friend how mild mannered it was, and he could use it no problem. Put the 25" bar on it and let him try it out. HOLY COW WAS I WRONG. What I take for granted scared the bejeebers out of him. If you are felling 48" trees and all you have run are saws you can hold at arms length with one hand, you are biting off more than you can chew. If you are working in the woods and want to fell a dead tree that is 100 feet tall, and you get lucky and put a perfect notch in it, get a perfect back cut, and the tree starts to tip in the perfect direction, the air resistance can be enough to snap the top 20 feet off and it will collapse and fall dead on top of the stump. I used the word 'Dead" on purpose. If you didn't know that, your first fell could be your last. Any body can buy the equipment to do the job. Do a self check, pending on what you are doing, you may be the wrong person to do it. My recommendation for the saw? I've run saws up to 180CC's, so I'd go with the 660 and 25" bar, it's the smoothest mid size saw I own.

 

[FlyingDutchman]

I'd rather have a 661 and a couple different length bars than waiting for a 461 in really big cuts if you think you are gonna make em'. Although that 3120XP deal looks better every time I happen past it.

This reminds me back when I was financially stable enough to think about buying something like that.

 

[rarefish383]

I'd rather have a 661 and a couple different length bars than waiting for a 461 in really big cuts if you think you are gonna make em'. Although that 3120XP deal looks better every time I happen past it.

This reminds me back when I was financially stable enough to think about buying something like that.

When I bought my 660 I walked into the dealer with cash in hand for an 880. While waiting for him to finish with someone else, I looked the saws over. I got to thinking how often would I really need the 880 with a 60" bar? Decided to save $1000 and got the 660. I have around 40 saws, and I've used 100cc saws up in trees. The OP has never used a saw over 50CC's. I was half saying the 660 tongue in cheek. It is a smooth mild mannered saw. But, compared to what he's been running, by the time he pulled the trigger on the 028, the 660 would be through the log and in the dirt. That 3120 is a smokin deal, but I think we are leading the OP down the wrong path.

 

[Hambone]

You said you are tending a plot of land. I grew up around farms, and a plot, was a kin to a building lot. What are you doing to tend it? Get standing dead wood on the ground. Clear trails? Thin under story? I'm not a good source for recommendations. I was raised in a fourth generation tree care family. Dad used all Homelites. Our climbers used Super EZ's, ground men XL12's, and Dad and I did most of the felling. We used XL900 series saws with up to 30" bars and Super 1050's with 36" bars. Dad bought saws for all of the men. They weren't actually assigned, but when he got a new one, and handed it to someone, it was their saw. Somewhere around 18-20 years old I got tired of ground men grabbing my XL12 and running it in the dirt, then sticking it back in my spot on the truck. I got one of the 100CC Super 1050's and put a 24" bar on it, and used it for my ground trimming saw, no one ever took my saw again. To me a saw is a saw. A few years ago I bought a new 660 as a mid size saw. I kept telling a friend how mild mannered it was, and he could use it no problem. Put the 25" bar on it and let him try it out. HOLY COW WAS I WRONG. What I take for granted scared the bejeebers out of him. If you are felling 48" trees and all you have run are saws you can hold at arms length with one hand, you are biting off more than you can chew. If you are working in the woods and want to fell a dead tree that is 100 feet tall, and you get lucky and put a perfect notch in it, get a perfect back cut, and the tree starts to tip in the perfect direction, the air resistance can be enough to snap the top 20 feet off and it will collapse and fall dead on top of the stump. I used the word 'Dead" on purpose. If you didn't know that, your first fell could be your last. Any body can buy the equipment to do the job. Do a self check, pending on what you are doing, you may be the wrong person to do it. My recommendation for the saw? I've run saws up to 180CC's, so I'd go with the 660 and 25" bar, it's the smoothest mid size saw I own.

To answer your first question, a super majority of the big wood I’ll be working with will be natural falls. I know I’m not near the experience level to drop big timber. However it is something I need to learn. There’s a few men in my life who have 30+ years experience each that are willing to teach me. It won’t be a trial by fire scenario. One in particular had years of time in with the big boys out west in Utah. He’s the one who will be doing most of the instruction.

As far as what size of tree I’ll be starting with my 028 can handle. But I’ll be gradually working up in size. A lot of the felling that will be taking place will either be dead wood or thinning out the land for the health of the bigger trees. I will be staying below the 80cc saws until I get years of experience.

 

[Hambone]

When I bought my 660 I walked into the dealer with cash in hand for an 880. While waiting for him to finish with someone else, I looked the saws over. I got to thinking how often would I really need the 880 with a 60" bar? Decided to save $1000 and got the 660. I have around 40 saws, and I've used 100cc saws up in trees. The OP has never used a saw over 50CC's. I was half saying the 660 tongue in cheek. It is a smooth mild mannered saw. But, compared to what he's been running, by the time he pulled the trigger on the 028, the 660 would be through the log and in the dirt. That 3120 is a smokin deal, but I think we are leading the OP down the wrong path.

Bingo, I’m simply trying to decide between the 391 or 461 as my first “big” saw. I will be purchasing a 291 to replace my 028 for standard ground work.

If I’m going to upgrade to a 70cc+ down the line. Should I just pull the trigger now while a non m-tronic is still available locally.

 

[FlyingDutchman]

I have only used the 660 and the 460 for brief periods doing tree service work on idiot proof cuts.

The 660,once the spikes were set it is not an exhausting saw to use. Super smooth and no real perceptible weight difference except for the bar. I hated the 460. All the heft of the 660 without the power and not as predictable. Both about as hard on the tendonitis to start.

I honestly don't know anything about the 3120 all I see are the numbers. If it's not as smooth a runner as the 660 class... Agree. Forget it. But close in price.

 

[ericm979]

The 261 and 362 are too close to buy both. While the 362 will pull a 24" bar in soft wood, it's not fast and even at max the oil pump puts out less than I'd like. It's ok for sporadic use. The saw works much better with a shorter bar. I have 18" but 20" would be good too. When you build up to cutting the large trees, look for a decent used large saw like a 460 or 461.

The pro level saws are lighter, more powerful and nicer to operate (better AV, decomp, ergonomics). If you are cutting a lot and have the cash, they're worth the extra cost. If you take care of it a saw will last many years.

Your fear of m-tronic is unwarranted. Failures are very rare. I have tuned many carbs but with M-tronic I never need to, it's always just right.

 

[Hambone]

When it comes to the m-tronic system I’ve read that people are having issues with cold and hot starts. Is this a lack of knowledge on their part or a Stihl issue? Also, how water resistant are they? If it’s raining or your working in a creek and your bar hits the water will it kill the computer?

Side note, I understand that if someone has an issue they’ll post it all over the internet. Has Stihl gotten the bugs worked out?

 

[irhunter]

I work on a crew which runs six m-tronic saws; they are between 2-years-old and new. It seems, at any time, there are one or two of the saws at the dealer getting "fixed." I can't tell you if all those saws have taken a trip to the dealer...or, if the older ones keep going back.

The saw I used this season, was a 362 cm, and it was fantastic in all respects...never in the shop, lots of yank for a 60cc saw (in oak and hickory with a 20" bar), perfect starting behavior.

To me, it seems the OP would be best served by a pro 50cc saw (e.g., 026, MS260) combined with a pro 70cc (e.g., 044, MS440).

Very handy combo...and, not too big a jump from what he's used to.

Roy

 

[Husky Man]

Hey Doug this guy has been running an 009 not a 090. Let him get a little time under the belt before he jumps to the 3120. Mike

I don't understand Stihl's numbering system, other than the Bigger the #, the Bigger the CC's. The 009, I understand is a Small saw, Top Handle?
from what I gather the 029 is around 50cc???

I don't know how much experience he has with saws in general, I've been running saws for over 40 years, learned on the Old Mans Mac Super Pro 60, and for about 25 years my 266XP, Was my "Big Saw", until I got the 3120XP, if a guy has some experience with saws, AND some Common Sense(some what Rare, these days) a 3120XP isn't that bad, Very Little Experience and/or Common Sense and ANY saw is Dangerous.

I'm 6'/265# and sneaking up on 54 real soon, the OP at 6'1"/315# age unknown should be able to handle a saw the size of the 3120XP, it doesn't sound like he is packing it far from the truck, not up hill and down dale on a clear cut, doesn't expect to do any falling, at least without an Experienced faller instructing him. Anticipates 48" wood, and wood up to 60". A 25" bar with the dawgs still on the saw probably wont quite cut a 48" log, a 60" ain't going to happen without cutting wedges out to cut deep enough, ME?, No Thanks, get the right tool. The 3120 balances Very nicely with my 36" bar on it, and just a tad Nose heavy with the 44" bar. Dave's price is Dayum hard to beat, on an Awesome saw, that will handle ANYTHING the OP expects to tackle.

As mentioned, I don't have any experience, or knowledge about Stihl's so I wont advise in any way regarding their products, I am much more familiar with Husqvarna's products, but if the OP, will only consider Stihl, then my advice is worthless to him, other than get the Best saw he can afford, and keep the chain SHARP, if he ain't got a SHARP chain, how many CC's his saw has, or what color it is wont matter.

I think it was Duce mentioned that Cuinrearview has a Nice 390XP for sale, that would be an Excellent choice, or a 395XP also, if he would consider an all orange saw. If he is expecting a LOT of 40"+ wood, I personally would be looking at at least 90cc myself. a 390XP with 24" and 32" bars would probably serve him well, less than that, and it sounds to ME, like he will be Abusing his saw.

With the range in size of wood that the OP is expecting, I think that a 2 saw plan, is inadequate, My Opinion.

Just My Thoughts, it is His Money, and he will be doing the work, I Hope that he gets whatever suits HIM Best.


Doug

 

[Deleted member 117362]

I don't understand Stihl's numbering system, other than the Bigger the #, the Bigger the CC's. The 009, I understand is a Small saw, Top Handle?
from what I gather the 029 is around 50cc???

I don't know how much experience he has with saws in general, I've been running saws for over 40 years, learned on the Old Mans Mac Super Pro 60, and for about 25 years my 266XP, Was my "Big Saw", until I got the 3120XP, if a guy has some experience with saws, AND some Common Sense(some what Rare, these days) a 3120XP isn't that bad, Very Little Experience and/or Common Sense and ANY saw is Dangerous.

I'm 6'/265# and sneaking up on 54 real soon, the OP at 6'1"/315# age unknown should be able to handle a saw the size of the 3120XP, it doesn't sound like he is packing it far from the truck, not up hill and down dale on a clear cut, doesn't expect to do any falling, at least without an Experienced faller instructing him. Anticipates 48" wood, and wood up to 60". A 25" bar with the dawgs still on the saw probably wont quite cut a 48" log, a 60" ain't going to happen without cutting wedges out to cut deep enough, ME?, No Thanks, get the right tool. The 3120 balances Very nicely with my 36" bar on it, and just a tad Nose heavy with the 44" bar. Dave's price is Dayum hard to beat, on an Awesome saw, that will handle ANYTHING the OP expects to tackle.

As mentioned, I don't have any experience, or knowledge about Stihl's so I wont advise in any way regarding their products, I am much more familiar with Husqvarna's products, but if the OP, will only consider Stihl, then my advice is worthless to him, other than get the Best saw he can afford, and keep the chain SHARP, if he ain't got a SHARP chain, how many CC's his saw has, or what color it is wont matter.

I think it was Duce mentioned that Cuinrearview has a Nice 390XP for sale, that would be an Excellent choice, or a 395XP also, if he would consider an all orange saw. If he is expecting a LOT of 40"+ wood, I personally would be looking at at least 90cc myself. a 390XP with 24" and 32" bars would probably serve him well, less than that, and it sounds to ME, like he will be Abusing his saw.

With the range in size of wood that the OP is expecting, I think that a 2 saw plan, is inadequate, My Opinion.

Just My Thoughts, it is His Money, and he will be doing the work, I Hope that he gets whatever suits HIM Best.


Doug

Nope, Cuinrearview said I had just finished building this all oem 390xp, except Hyway muffler. It's just a stock saw with muffler opened at stock deflector. Think he is a Stihl guy.

 

[Husky Man]

Sorry had it backwards, it was Stihl the same two culprits involved though


Doug

 

[dustinwilt68]

I just finished a ported 372 XPW, 75cc 51.4 mm cylinder.

 

[Deleted member 117362]

I just finished a ported 372 XPW, 75cc 51.4 mm cylinder. View attachment 746434 View attachment 746435 View attachment 746437 View attachment 746438

Not all oem, which parts are AM?

 

[Hambone]

6’ 1” 315lbs (not chewed up bubblegum)
32 years old

 

[dustinwilt68]

Just the tank, everything else including the throttle cable is OEM. Cases are brand new OEM.

Not all oem, which parts are AM?

 

[Levi of the North]

My old man has a 460 (predecessor to the 461) with a 28" bar that we use for the odd honkin' big walnut that comes down in the woodlot. It's hefty, but not unmanageable, and has always been reliable. I'm planning on buying a 461 with the same bar length in the near future as my "big saw".