Hi there. I just acquired this Poulan Pro chainsaw and it is a bit rough. It appears to have been left outside for some time. I cleaned it up quickly and it does run off the gas when poured in the plug hole or in the carburetor. I was happy. So I went to fill the tank up with fuel and when about to do so, I noticed the fuel line was a bit rotten. So would anybody here happen to know the size and diameter of fule line needed for this saw. I am away on holidays buy would like to try and pick some up from town in a day or two when I go there. Also, inside the tank, there is a fuel line joiner(double ended barbed). Can I omit this and just run a straight piece of fuel line? I will be replacing all the fuel lines while apart anyways. Thank you.
Poulan Pro PP4218AVX Fuel Line
- Thread starter lil171
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I just tore mine down an hour ago (cheapy off craigslist that "wouldn't start"), and there was no joiner on the fuel line, which was also crumbly; it was direct line.
Dunno how far you've gotten, if at all. EVERYTHING has to come out to access the fuel line(s.) Thankfully, the muff/cylinder/carb are all attached and not individually bolted down.
I'd be very interested to know how your cylinder gasket looks. The piston on mine was in great shape, however the cylinder gasket was toast, with only a few strands of rubber here and there. Kind of disappointed with that and the fact that there is no seal on the fly-wheel side. There was all kinds of gunk just a millimeter or two away from the crank/rod. Can't believe Husqy makes them like this.
I'm ditching the original fuel filter and putting a small in-line filter on, probably eliminating the purge-bulb. I'm debating between using this for my dirt-saw (often times I get hired to remove sprouts by the roots, which ends up involving digging around them and cutting into them, inevitably cutting through lots of dirt and tiny rock/grit.)
If i end up keeping the saw instead of selling it, I'll swap the tool-less tensioner. I've even given thought to opening up the muffler some, porting it, and seeing how it worked as competition to my 543xp; however, I'm probably just getting carried away
. It's bulkier, but the plastic case makes it comparable in weight.
Dunno how far you've gotten, if at all. EVERYTHING has to come out to access the fuel line(s.) Thankfully, the muff/cylinder/carb are all attached and not individually bolted down.
I'd be very interested to know how your cylinder gasket looks. The piston on mine was in great shape, however the cylinder gasket was toast, with only a few strands of rubber here and there. Kind of disappointed with that and the fact that there is no seal on the fly-wheel side. There was all kinds of gunk just a millimeter or two away from the crank/rod. Can't believe Husqy makes them like this.
I'm ditching the original fuel filter and putting a small in-line filter on, probably eliminating the purge-bulb. I'm debating between using this for my dirt-saw (often times I get hired to remove sprouts by the roots, which ends up involving digging around them and cutting into them, inevitably cutting through lots of dirt and tiny rock/grit.)
If i end up keeping the saw instead of selling it, I'll swap the tool-less tensioner. I've even given thought to opening up the muffler some, porting it, and seeing how it worked as competition to my 543xp; however, I'm probably just getting carried away
. It's bulkier, but the plastic case makes it comparable in weight.EngineNoO9
ArboristSite Guru
You should only have to take the carb off. The large line is a pain that's closer to the cylinder but use fishing line to yank the line through. Dunno the size. I bought a bulk kit of several sizes years back and I was able to use 2 sizes to fit it back together.
Seemed easier to undo the handle and remove the cylinder bolts then trying to finagle everything and pull the carb. Could just be how i approach things...? :shrug:
EngineNoO9
ArboristSite Guru
Really shouldn't be necessary. The carb bolts are still in the way but I see no reason to pull the cylinder. Long needle nose will help too.
Yes. Got mine done last week. Easp peasey when you know where the lines all go.... As for installing. I used all single piece lines with no joiners, and replaced the primer bulb with a new one. The best way I find to install lines is to cut then a a very shallow angle and that piece slips through the holes very easily, then follow up with a pull from long needle nose pliers or hemostats. I pulled the main line through the fuel opening, trimmed it square, installed the filter, then pulled back to where I wanted it. Same as the return line. Trim to a sliver, pull through, cut square, then pull back so approximately 1/2" is in the tank.
Brent Nowell
Addicted to ArboristSite
When I get home I will be able to tell you, I have all sizes at home. I am pretty sure it is 1/8th, whether that was ID or OD I cannot remember and will find out later today.
The 4218 uses 3/32"id by 3/16"od and .080" id by .140"od fuel lines .
Sam R
8mm Socket
Heck if I know, but I've replaced the lines on about a million of them. The inlet line is a lot smaller than the return line, basically just use what will seal it up tight, cut an angle in the hose and use forceps to tug it through.
Brent Nowell
Addicted to ArboristSite
Have you guys seen fuel starvation issues depending on where the fuel filter is located in the tank?
I am almost positive that the poulan I’m working on has the fuel filter curled up halfway along the vertical wall of the tank. Causes the saw to run irradically when positioned flat. But I toss it on its side with what I suspect the fuel filter submerged and it’s great.
It’s not a vacuum leak as it’s been tested and the gasket has been rtv’d for the carb. The unit is brand new. I am pretty sure it’s the fuel filter position, I’ll check it out for sure later today.
Has anyone else had fuel filter position issues?
I am almost positive that the poulan I’m working on has the fuel filter curled up halfway along the vertical wall of the tank. Causes the saw to run irradically when positioned flat. But I toss it on its side with what I suspect the fuel filter submerged and it’s great.
It’s not a vacuum leak as it’s been tested and the gasket has been rtv’d for the carb. The unit is brand new. I am pretty sure it’s the fuel filter position, I’ll check it out for sure later today.
Has anyone else had fuel filter position issues?
Sam R
8mm Socket
If your main line is way too long or too short it could conceivably cause this issue. But filters are weighted so it should always be on the bottom of wherever the fuel is resting. There's probably a scant few saws that the filter could get bound up somewhere the fuel ain't such as in a Stihl 011. But in a 4218 the fuel tank is just a big box with nowhere for the filter or the line to bind up.
