New Echo cs-590 won't start

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I understand that, and I think that's just a generational thing. Spark plugs are $2-3, but they're also usually not so worn out that they can't just be cleaned and re-gapped to work. Then again the time it takes to do that - from a labor standpoint, pretty much negates the cost of doing it. That said, I understand: I usually just torch people's spark arresting screens rather than replace. Unless it's broken or something like that. Shop's gotta make money somewhere!
Also if you're diagnosing a running issue, using a known good plug is The Word for conducting that test in the field or when you don't have an inline tester. Grounding it against the cylinder is NOT an acceptable pass/fail in my book, since a spark there does not mean a good spark under compression too.
 
It’s not a generational thing. It’s a thing about spark plugs in two strokes that sometimes they need a little maintenance to go on to live their intended life. Usually they last a long, long, long, long time. Why replace a plug that just needs to be burned off? It takes 10 or 15 seconds. Gapping would take another 10. A new plug’s gap should be checked anyway, so this time lost thing is kinda BS. You gotta sell spark plugs tho, right?

It could be a generational thing that has created an expectation and acceptance of premature failure/replacement of many things that simply should not fail, or at least have a reasonable service life.

In fact, it is.
 
Made a little progress today. Checked for spark and regapped plug. Was able to get it to start with zip tie around throttle no choke. Dies right after it revs up. Adjusted T screw some and able to get it to start like instructions say with choke out then choke in. Won't stay running more than 2 seconds though. Where do I go from here. I'm assuming it's the carb adjustments. Are they that finnicky? Where should the T screw be?
 
Did you set the high and low to base settings?

Like 1 1/4 turn out low and 1 turn out high? That should be close enough.

It should start and run with something like that.
 
It’s not a generational thing. It’s a thing about spark plugs in two strokes that sometimes they need a little maintenance to go on to live their intended life. Usually they last a long, long, long, long time. Why replace a plug that just needs to be burned off? It takes 10 or 15 seconds. Gapping would take another 10. A new plug’s gap should be checked anyway, so this time lost thing is kinda BS. You gotta sell spark plugs tho, right?

It could be a generational thing that has created an expectation and acceptance of premature failure/replacement of many things that simply should not fail, or at least have a reasonable service life.

In fact, it is.

You make a good point, if I'm honest I don't think even the fouled out plugs usually fail - just get a little persnickety maybe. Probably nothing fire couldn't cure. But when they get like that, I'll just change them - as part of the quote the customer approves. I think it's .50c one way and half dollar the other since we're talking about spark plugs and yes, like you said, a business has to make money.
 
Where should the T screw be?

You need to turn the the T screw in (CW) so that it idles fast (chain spinning) until you adjust the L. Otherwise, it will die when you fatten the L mixture to get good trigger response. Then adjust the T per your owner manual so the chain doesn't move at idle.
 
Just looking for a starting point for T. Just got it to run for a about 5 seconds with low 1.5 out. T is all the way in. Tried to back it out a little and now it won't start at all.
 
Got it going for about 10 seconds then it dies. Same thing with throttle lightly pressed. Got maybe 10 seconds out of it. What do I adjust first? It is very quick to wet the plug if I pull the cord too many times without starting it.
 
You should not have to have that idle screw turned all the way in??!. You should have it just barely contacting the linkage.

Are you sure you got everything put back together properly?

I forget how my echo is in that respect (carb linkage, choke, etc).
 
Yes. I checked everything multiple times. The design is super simple. I'll try adjusting the idle screw tommorow.
 
Hat tip to Ray Benson >>>This is from the echo CS 600 set up manual . Start with the low side at>2 turns out , high side at 3/4 , idle screw at 2 3/8 in . Fire up the saw . The high rpm should be about 11500 . Adjust the L screw in to just before lean drop off .
Adjust the idle screw to 3600 . Now adjust the L out until rpm hits about 2800 . Adjust the high side to 12,00 to 12,500 . Make very small adjustments as you are only 3/4 open to start .
Note : you can run the H all the way in ,and the saw will still run . The carb hda268 can feed the high speed nozzle directly from the metering circuit . So ,that is why the initial H setting is different than most carbs .
 
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