Echo CS-510-clutch troubleshooting

[dlutter]

Hi guys. I'm new to the site and fairly naive about working on chainsaws, although I have/am learning a lot from reading old posts. Please bear with me. I don't see a lot of info online about this saw, so I'm hoping this thread can start something to help someone like me.

I have a pawn shop Echo CS-510 that I picked up and am now stuck with. I'm just trying to do enough to it so it will run decently for small ranch/large homeowner property type use. I'd like it to replace my Poulan Pro PP5020AV as my main saw.

The saw would fire but then die when I bought it so I started adjusting the carb (which helped but not enough) and discovered the L and H screws were bent. I promptly broke them off trying to get them out and had to replace with an aftermarket carb. I installed and adjusted the new carb pretty well, if I do say so myself. Now for my current problem.......

I can't get the chain to stop spinning no matter how low I adjust the throttle screw. I have read MANY clutch threads and have it narrowed down to either clutch or air leak on the carb. I plan to remove the clutch assembly and check for wear, broken parts, etc this weekend.

Here's my question: How do I go about troubleshooting the clutch? Do I just replace the entire assembly or should I start by just replacing the spring? Are there any other parts that should be replaced simultaneously (such as the clutch drum)?

Thanks!

 

[Marine-piper]

I had a similar experience with a Poulan, check to see if the spring holding the shoes in isn't worn or damaged. The spring I had was no good and made the chain spin no matter what I did.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[HarleyT]

First, take off the bar/chain/cover, and take a few pics.

See how freely the sprocket drum spins.

 

[dlutter]

I'll post some pics in the morning. Anything specific or that I should take a close up of? I do have the cover off but bar and chain still on. I am able to freely spin the drum with the sprocket and chain still attached

 

[HarleyT]

A pic of the clutch,

mainly.

 

[s sidewall]

If the saw idles down when you adjusted the idle speed, I'd look at the clutch spring for looseness. Spring should be tight holding the clutches and they shouldn't be easy to move in or out by hand. They should be tight against the center hub.

Steve Sidwell

 

[dlutter]

Here are a picture of the clutch. I have a video of checking the spring for tension but upload is not allowed, so here is a link to it. I'm thinking it is too loose. The clutch is dented on one shoe, like it has been removed a time or two, maybe to replace the rim sprocket? I'm thinking it is probably worth just trying a new spring before spending $50 or 60 on a new clutch assembly. Or is that dented shoe going to be a problem?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/5N94uzcEC8z7yU1p8

 

[Natster]

Does the chain move freely, with the motor off? There's a bearing in there, that is supposed to allow the motor to idle, with the chain not spinning. A bound up or bad bearing can cause it to keep moving the chain. Or, a. Bad clutch...

 

[HarleyT]

Does the drum turn easily with the chain off?

 

[HarleyT]

Saw the movie.
That spring is quite loose/weak.

 

[dlutter]

Natster, I can turn the chain by hand easily with the bar & chain installed and tensioned correctly.

Harley, the drum will spin freely, almost like a top but not quite with the bar and chain off.

I pulled the clutch this afternoon. I have pics if anyone want to see. The bearing looks in good condition. I don't see any odd wear patterns. The clutch shoes and inside of the drum are smooth and don't appear to be worn.

Do you need to do anything to lube the bearing?

Thanks for everyone's input. At this point I'm going to try a new spring. If that doesn't work then I'll try a new clutch assembly.

 

[HarleyT]

Yeah, the shoes should be real hard to pull away from the center. That spring looks pretty weak.

 

[Echojohnny]

Hi guys. I'm new to the site and fairly naive about working on chainsaws, although I have/am learning a lot from reading old posts. Please bear with me. I don't see a lot of info online about this saw, so I'm hoping this thread can start something to help someone like me.

I have a pawn shop Echo CS-510 that I picked up and am now stuck with. I'm just trying to do enough to it so it will run decently for small ranch/large homeowner property type use. I'd like it to replace my Poulan Pro PP5020AV as my main saw.

The saw would fire but then die when I bought it so I started adjusting the carb (which helped but not enough) and discovered the L and H screws were bent. I promptly broke them off trying to get them out and had to replace with an aftermarket carb. I installed and adjusted the new carb pretty well, if I do say so myself. Now for my current problem.......

I can't get the chain to stop spinning no matter how low I adjust the throttle screw. I have read MANY clutch threads and have it narrowed down to either clutch or air leak on the carb. I plan to remove the clutch assembly and check for wear, broken parts, etc this weekend.

Here's my question: How do I go about troubleshooting the clutch? Do I just replace the entire assembly or should I start by just replacing the spring? Are there any other parts that should be replaced simultaneously (such as the clutch drum)?

Thanks!

Sometimes debris gets caught up in the clutch causing your issue. Rule out an air leak. Air leak problems will affect running and mostly idling. You may need a special tool to remove the clutch and it has a reverse thread. Its best to replace a complete clutch rather than fixi g an old one. Pm me if you need more help

 

[dlutter]

Sometimes debris gets caught up in the clutch causing your issue. Rule out an air leak. Air leak problems will affect running and mostly idling. You may need a special tool to remove the clutch and it has a reverse thread. Its best to replace a complete clutch rather than fixi g an old one. Pm me if you need more help

Thanks for the reply.

I almost went with the whole clutch but at a cost of $45 vs 3 for the spring I decided to give the spring a try. I have a clutch spring on order and was able to get the clutch off. The spring should arrive next week. I will post back with my results.

If the spring does not work and I need to get a whole new clutch, do I also need to replace the clutch drum and bearing? Is a used clutch acceptable or not worth the risk?

 

[Echojohnny]

Thanks for the reply.

I almost went with the whole clutch but at a cost of $45 vs 3 for the spring I decided to give the spring a try. I have a clutch spring on order and was able to get the clutch off. The spring should arrive next week. I will post back with my results.

If the spring does not work and I need to get a whole new clutch, do I also need to replace the clutch drum and bearing? Is a used clutch acceptable or not worth the risk?

Here are a couple pics one of which with screwdriver indicates slight drive wear and the other shows a groove cut into the center and if yours has a deep groove replace the clutch drum. The new drum comes with a new cage bearing and you always want to apply lots of high temp grease to the inside and outside of that bearing. As far as the clutch goes the new spring may fix it temporarily but remember if the spring stretched out there has to be other wear on the rest of it. Be safe, do the job 1 time, spend the $45 and fix it right. Half repairs always crap out right in the middle of your job pissing you off and the customer. Every time that you remove the chain for sharpening you should flip your bar upside down and by doing this you don't wear out one side of the bar. This gives you more life on the bar. Pictured is a tool that goes into the chain rail cleaning out packed junk that is in there. Good luck my friend and remember the reverse clutch thread.

 

[rmotoman]

I saw a clutch for your saw for $20 on eBay.

 

[dlutter]

Thank you Johnny! I appreciate the post and all the knowledge passed along. All great points and I'll give my saw a look tomorrow.

rmotoman, thanks for checking. I'll have to search again. Two weeks ago when I checked the cheapest I found was a used one for $30.

 

[Echojohnny]

Thank you Johnny! I appreciate the post and all the knowledge passed along. All great points and I'll give my saw a look tomorrow.

rmotoman, thanks for checking. I'll have to search again. Two weeks ago when I checked the cheapest I found was a used one for $30.

I would reccomend buying an Echo OEM clutch or an Oregon brand. Aftermarket parts can be very cheap and wimpy these days but something like a clutch and drum i would by the highest quality. Clutches and drums recieve and send power and get real hot doing their job thats why you should buy new parts and quality parts. A lot of aftermarket parts work perfectly so think of that parts function then decide on which to buy. Or you can always ask me and ill help you

 

[dlutter]

Update for anyone following this. I installed the old clutch with the new spring today and it looks like it will do the trick. The saw worked perfectly. I also greased the bearing. The clutch drum is not showing signs of wear.

Thanks to everyone who has offered advice!

 

[Echojohnny]

A working chainsaw and an education from good folks! Only in America!