Pioneer chainsaws

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Got the P62 out today for some big red oak and to put a fine tune on it after it heated up. Fired up ok but needed a little help on the idle adjust screw to stay running. Wrote that off to stiff diaphragms. Started with the lo screw about 3/4 out and the hi a little bit less but still 4 stroking at WOT. After four bucks in a 16 inch log it died and refused to idle on restart. Diddled with the lo jet a bit with limited success and needed more idle adjust than seems necessary to keep it running. Took it over to a 36 incher for a big cut and it died and hasn't started since. Tries, but won't run. Great spark. Flat out ran awesome in those first four cuts. Doesn't seem like it overheated like it's done in the past. Tank is venting fine. I did try 1 turn out on both jets like I'd start out with a Mac and got nothing. Just flooded it.

Any tips while I air it out and let it cool down a bit?
 
Its common for the carb adapters to crack on the Pioneer saws, seen many like this. They can be repaired with JB Weld but need to be soaked out well in alcohol or acetone before the repair. For a final clean I boil them in water with a touch of soap, blow dry.


Neat tip you use their , Can you give idea as to how long is the soaking time be.
 
Got the P62 out today for some big red oak and to put a fine tune on it after it heated up. Fired up ok but needed a little help on the idle adjust screw to stay running. Wrote that off to stiff diaphragms. Started with the lo screw about 3/4 out and the hi a little bit less but still 4 stroking at WOT. After four bucks in a 16 inch log it died and refused to idle on restart. Diddled with the lo jet a bit with limited success and needed more idle adjust than seems necessary to keep it running. Took it over to a 36 incher for a big cut and it died and hasn't started since. Tries, but won't run. Great spark. Flat out ran awesome in those first four cuts. Doesn't seem like it overheated like it's done in the past. Tank is venting fine. I did try 1 turn out on both jets like I'd start out with a Mac and got nothing. Just flooded it.

Any tips while I air it out and let it cool down a bit?
1 turn out on the low and 1 1/4 on the high is a good ball park. The carb might have a faulty governor messing with you. Hopefully it's not lean scored.
 
Top end is pristine on this saw. Removing the muffler to check the piston is the only thing I've actually done to it except fix the chain brake and rebuild the fuel cap. I've only run it a few times and never tore it down very far for inspection. That said...

I did just discover an excessive amount of fuel line in the tank which had the fuel filter lodged up above the casting for the bar stud (or whatever that bump is). Figured that was the problem since the fuel level was pretty much right there or a hair below. Outta gas! Nope. Trimmed the line back and installed a new filter that now rests in the bottom of the tank. Pressure tested the fuel line end to end and found a leak at the tank barb from the carb line. Replaced line. Fixed! Nope. Rechecked fuel line pressure from the carb end and again it didn't hold. Checked both tank and carb lines pinched off at the tank barb and both held. Pulled the barb thinking it may have a crack and found 3/16 I.D. Tygon with a sloppy fit on that little barb. Replaced with correct diameter line. Fixed now, dammit!!!

0720191744_resized.jpg
But it gets better,,,

0720191745_resized.jpg
Carb was actually pretty clean and diaphragms not terrible..., but the small welch plug was just floating around on the metering deck and the diaphragm nub was riding on the metering lever fork instead of inserted where it belonged. Amazing that the saw ran as good as it did and certainly explains the weirdness in the carb settings. Not sure where the governor would be on this SDC but I'm pretty sure the welch plugs are supposed to be sealed when installed. Popped it back in and tried to run it as is but it still isn't happy. Hafta wait until Monday for a kit and will pull the reed block to see if there's anything needing attention there as well. That's about all there is left except an ignition problem which would just about need to be a timing issue to cause the behavior I'm experiencing..., and I'm hoping that's a fairly remote possibility.
 
Top end is pristine on this saw. Removing the muffler to check the piston is the only thing I've actually done to it except fix the chain brake and rebuild the fuel cap. I've only run it a few times and never tore it down very far for inspection. That said...

I did just discover an excessive amount of fuel line in the tank which had the fuel filter lodged up above the casting for the bar stud (or whatever that bump is). Figured that was the problem since the fuel level was pretty much right there or a hair below. Outta gas! Nope. Trimmed the line back and installed a new filter that now rests in the bottom of the tank. Pressure tested the fuel line end to end and found a leak at the tank barb from the carb line. Replaced line. Fixed! Nope. Rechecked fuel line pressure from the carb end and again it didn't hold. Checked both tank and carb lines pinched off at the tank barb and both held. Pulled the barb thinking it may have a crack and found 3/16 I.D. Tygon with a sloppy fit on that little barb. Replaced with correct diameter line. Fixed now, dammit!!!

But it gets better,,,

Carb was actually pretty clean and diaphragms not terrible..., but the small welch plug was just floating around on the metering deck and the diaphragm nub was riding on the metering lever fork instead of inserted where it belonged. Amazing that the saw ran as good as it did and certainly explains the weirdness in the carb settings. Not sure where the governor would be on this SDC but I'm pretty sure the welch plugs are supposed to be sealed when installed. Popped it back in and tried to run it as is but it still isn't happy. Hafta wait until Monday for a kit and will pull the reed block to see if there's anything needing attention there as well. That's about all there is left except an ignition problem which would just about need to be a timing issue to cause the behavior I'm experiencing..., and I'm hoping that's a fairly remote possibility.
Glad to hear it's nothing major.
 
Neat tip you use their , Can you give idea as to how long is the soaking time be.
Usually a couple hours or so, I move on to other things and come back after a bit, blow it all off with compressed air then into a pot of water, boil it for 15 - 20 mins and then blow off again. JB Weld is fairly thin and runny so a dam of tape is good insurance the stuff will stay in the cracks.
 
Its common for the carb adapters to crack on the Pioneer saws, seen many like this. They can be repaired with JB Weld but need to be soaked out well in alcohol or acetone before the repair. For a final clean I boil them in water with a touch of soap, blow dry.
While I believe this fixed the problem. The saw runs fantastic but the high is screwed all the way in and bogs down as you back it out. While I wait for the clutch this is something I know is not right but it runs good! Any thoughts?
 
While I believe this fixed the problem. The saw runs fantastic but the high is screwed all the way in and bogs down as you back it out. While I wait for the clutch this is something I know is not right but it runs good! Any thoughts?
Check the metering lever in the carb as well as the welch plugs.
 
I had it to far open at first and the needle wouldn't seal. I now have it level with the bottom of what I'm guessing is called the circuit plate. Basically where the manual says. The H needle has seen a lot of turning you can tell by how worn the slot is.
 
While I believe this fixed the problem. The saw runs fantastic but the high is screwed all the way in and bogs down as you back it out. While I wait for the clutch this is something I know is not right but it runs good! Any thoughts?

The engine is getting fuel some other way than through the H jet, a damaged needle or seat, loose Welch plug or leaking circuit plate gasket, incorrect pump side diaphragm and or damaged check valve if the carb has one. The carb must be in top notch shape to work correctly, only way I ever get one into shape is if its here in my hands.
 

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