Pioneer chainsaws

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Very nice paint job. What kind of paint did you use? Are those custom colors you mixed or something off the shelf? I have a very faded 3071 that I want to restore and paint and want it to be close to the original color.

A little work done on the 600 restoration. My daughter did the lettering for me. Will add a couple layers of clear coat.
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Very nice paint job. What kind of paint did you use? Are those custom colors you mixed or something off the shelf? I have a very faded 3071 that I want to restore and paint and want it to be close to the original color.
It is off the shelf paint. The yellow is Krylon "gloss bright idea". The green is XOrust gloss medium green.
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Got my hot rod p51 out to do some milling on some smaller oak. Put a fresh square file on the 28.View attachment 748546
For a good part of my life, i was married to a P51, 28", with chisel-filed semi-skip. I cut more timber with that saw than any of my 15 or so other saws. It's still running, better than ever, in the form of a P52 Hillbilly Hotrod.

My son swears it's faster than my 655BP. I think he's right, if the wood is 24" and under. I'm still in love.
 
For a good part of my life, i was married to a P51, 28", with chisel-filed semi-skip. I cut more timber with that saw than any of my 15 or so other saws. It's still running, better than ever, in the form of a P52 Hillbilly Hotrod.

My son swears it's faster than my 655BP. I think he's right, if the wood is 24" and under. I'm still in love.
Thanks to your advice mine is quite the runner as well. There's something about them that's just right. I wouldn't doubt it's faster either. When my 655 top end on my p62 is broke in I will do some tests like you did. Hope all is well with you.
 
Need a little help sorting out intake parts for the P62..., specifically the reed block assembly. IPL's are showing (507)476213 as a collective part number for the reed, screws, and reed restrictor(?), but don't seem to include the block? I have seen references to that number called 'reed block assembly' so was wondering if the block is indeed included. I spoke to a very helpful woman at Rottman Sales yesterday who wasn't quite sure. She also said that her book showed the 476213 number being superseded by 476664 in a P65 IPL though the P65 IPL I have still shows the 476213 assembly number (as also listed in the P62 IPL). Any clarification there would be extremely helpful.

Was also wondering what's included in 475492 gasket kit. Only need the carb and reed block gaskets. Carb gasket 432843 is available individually but the reed block gasket 430859 isn't. Chainsawr has em for 3.99 but wants 6.99 shipping when they could just put it in an 50 cent envelope. Ridiculous.

The 433023 reed is also not available as an individual part from Rottman but if 476664 is a good number for the block assembly they have them for $19.

Thanks for any help. I really want to make this saw right for its new owner who is understandably excited about getting has hands on it. Gonna be difficult to let it go after getting it running right but its going to a good home and a great guy..., (and I still have a couple Pioneers stashed away for a rainy day). LOL
 
FWIW, 476213 is NLA from Rottman's and has been superseded/replaced by 476664. Probably could have still used the one I have after flipping the reed and getting a much better seal but this new one was only $26 shipped.

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And the SDC is all nice and shiny now. A 5/16 drift was perfect for setting the small welch plug. Tried to remove the governor plug for a look-see but it wasn't budging. Looks like someone may already have blocked it as there seems to be remnants of something under the plug that was threaded in. The plug looks to be out way too far as well unless that's normal. The different colored threads would indicate it was originally threaded in quite a bit more.
It's more visible in the earlier pic I posted and I thought it was just oil and sawdust funk until I pulled the carb out of the USC and found it still there.
Fingers crossed on this, but I'm inclined to somehow trying to remove that plug without damaging the carb body. Just not quite sure how.

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FWIW, 476213 is NLA from Rottman's and has been superseded/replaced by 476664. Probably could have still used the one I have after flipping the reed and getting a much better seal but this new one was only $26 shipped.

And the SDC is all nice and shiny now. A 5/16 drift was perfect for setting the small welch plug. Tried to remove the governor plug for a look-see but it wasn't budging. Looks like someone may already have blocked it as there seems to be remnants of something under the plug that was threaded in. The plug looks to be out way too far as well unless that's normal. The different colored threads would indicate it was originally threaded in quite a bit more.
It's more visible in the earlier pic I posted and I thought it was just oil and sawdust funk until I pulled the carb out of the USC and found it still there.
Fingers crossed on this, but I'm inclined to somehow trying to remove that plug without damaging the carb body. Just not quite sure how.

View attachment 749271

That's how the governor looks stock. They can be a pita to get out. I find that a impact drill with a just right bit usually gets them loose.
 
Gotcha. May give it a try with my smaller impact. Is there supposed to be something threaded in around the plug, too?
The plug usually has a red colored sealer applied from the factory to the threads, yours may have been removed and sealed back in with a retaining compound that needs heat to break the bond. I have always found them to back out when sealed from the factory with just a good fitting screwdriver but I do have a Snap On driver impact bit that would remove them in a jiffy.
 
To aide in getting those plugs out its best to place them in a bench vise and have a screwdriver that fits the slot very tightly, then one can use two hands on the screwdriver for torque and stability. An impact driver with the proper bit would be an asset if it can`t be removed with a regular hand turned screwdriver. So far I have always gotten them out with the regular hand turned driver, they need to fit tightly though or the slot will easily get buggered up as the brass is rather soft.
 

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