New Business- equipment choices/advice

[gmwilkes]

Hi all, I found this forum looking for information on starting a tree service. I have already looked into this and want to start as a side business to my full time job. Right now I work 12 hour shifts that allow me plenty of time to earn extra income. I also have a few friends that own landscape companies and don’t do tree work as part of that and have already stated they have customers that are in need of services and he’d recommend me to them. Here is my thought and why I’m posting now.

I plan to start out trimming and pruning trees using primarily hand tools and then working towards a pole saw (maybe). I plan to study up on the ANSI A300 prior to offering services.

Once I have the money return on my initial investment of hand tools and gas expenses, I plan to put money aside to buy climbing gear and have 2 friends that have been climbers for other tree companies willing to teach me the ropes (pun intended). I will then work on getting comfortable with climbing and invest in saws. I may invest early on in some saws for work on the ground (such as felling or removing large fallen limbs). I’ll also be investing in safety equipment as needed as I buy other equipment.

I know equipment can be a testy topic. Right now I’m looking for recommendations on non powered pole saw/pruner, as well as hand saw, and hand pruners. I’m hoping to keep my expense low starting out and upgrade as I get cash flow.

Any recommendations would be appreciated as well as thoughts on must have safety equipment for using hand tools for pruning. I’m thinking gloves, glasses, and head protection of some sort.

Thanks again. Looking forward to your replies.




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[Ted Jenkins]

I have an assortment of equipment and tools which has been a huge asset. That being said not all equipment is always needed. Here in California we have gone through several cycles with trees dying then not dying changing the climate to what work is needed. At the moment I really need my skid steer loader, but it has some much needed TLC. I do not want at my age to buy brand new so I will make do with what I have. You will do the same and be successful. Many years ago I started using and making rope saws. I have found that for most part there is little that can not be done with a rope saw safely. Pole saws when available can be a little more effective in that they take very little set up time. You have a reasonable plan which will work if you do not get too distracted Thanks

 

[CacaoBoy]

You want muscle powered equipment.

• Silky saws are probably the best hand saws and pole saws. They cost more than others, but I regret not finding the brand sooner.
• Don't forget your hardhat. With a pole saw, you need the hard hat.
  
• For hand pruners, I rely on Felco.
• Get a lopper. I have a Fiskars ratchet lopper that get a lot of use and a bypass lopper that rarely comes out.
  
• A bow saw at least 21" for branches too big for a Silky saw.

When you are ready to buy something motorized, I'd suggest your first purchase be a telescoping pole pruner such as the Stihl HT103. It sounds as if you are going to be doing pruning rather than tree removals and keeping your feet (mostly) on the ground for the foreseeable future. My HT103 has made me much more productive than relying on the hand powered pole saw. It sounds as if you are likely to be working alone initially. I feel my pole pruner is safe enough to work alone with it, whereas chainsaws present so much greater danger that it is best to have a backup ready to dial 911 and try to stop the bleeding.

 

[gmwilkes]

You want muscle powered equipment.

• Silky saws are probably the best hand saws and pole saws. They cost more than others, but I regret not finding the brand sooner.
• Don't forget your hardhat. With a pole saw, you need the hard hat.
  
• For hand pruners, I rely on Felco.
• Get a lopper. I have a Fiskars ratchet lopper that get a lot of use and a bypass lopper that rarely comes out.
  
• A bow saw at least 21" for branches too big for a Silky saw.

When you are ready to buy something motorized, I'd suggest your first purchase be a telescoping pole pruner such as the Stihl HT103. It sounds as if you are going to be doing pruning rather than tree removals and keeping your feet (mostly) on the ground for the foreseeable future. My HT103 has made me much more productive than relying on the hand powered pole saw. It sounds as if you are likely to be working alone initially. I feel my pole pruner is safe enough to work alone with it, whereas chainsaws present so much greater danger that it is best to have a backup ready to dial 911 and try to stop the bleeding.

Thanks. I’ve looked at silky, not sure Which model to go with yet from them. I’ll take a look at your other recommendations. Didn’t think about a hard hat. Should probably be common sense. Also didn’t think about a bow saw which I’ll invest in as well. Thank you.

As for the power pole pruner, would investing in Stihl Kombi system be recommended or a dedicated pole saw? Was thinking with their Kombi system I could use the hedge trimmer attachment as well when needed.


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[Ryan'smilling]

Silky Hayate or Hayauchi for the pole saw. Hayate is a little heavier, but more durable. Both are great tools.

 

[CacaoBoy]

As for the power pole pruner, would investing in Stihl Kombi system be recommended or a dedicated pole saw? Was thinking with their Kombi system I could use the hedge trimmer attachment as well when needed.

I have not used the Kombi system. Take a look at other discussions by people who have actual knowledge gained through experience. I like the ability of the HT103 to adjust to exactly the length that works best rather than having fixed length extentions to increase the reach.

 

[sundance]

I have no experience with the Kombi system. My general experience is that multi purpose tools are never the best at any given task. They may suffice for a bit of multiple tasks but fall way behind a task specific tool for a single function. Your thoughts and plans for your business would dictate which direction makes the most sense.

 

[ATH]

Agreed on Silky. I've tried a couple of others. They are cheaper to buy, but make less money so that savings is quickly lost.

I have a Hayate and really like it. However, the lighter weight of the Hayauchi feels really good...

Handsaws: If I had only one it would be a straight blade, medium tooth Tsurugi because it is so versatile. However, I use my Sugoi more...much more aggressive, but the wider blade limits its use on smaller trees.

You also talked about the ANSI A300. Make sure you also well versed in the Z133.

In addition to the ANSI books, look at ISA's Best Management Practices. They sell them together.

Also for pruning, it is important to understand the biology. Read up on some Shigo stuff. Ed Gilman's Illustrated Guide to Pruning is also really good. Gilman is more detailed than Chris Luly's book, but Luly's is simpler. While written for young trees, many of the same principles apply to bigger trees too. Here is a primer for his (article contains a link to the book): https://arbordayblog.org/askanarborist/ask-arborist-abcs-pruning/

Frankly, if you can become the local expert at small tree pruning, there is PLENTY of work out there and you can do it with VERY low overhead. I do a lot of trees under $250 each...sometimes in and out in less than an hour and a half. No chainsaw. No chipper needed. Sometimes it takes 2 days to fill up a dump trailer doing those...

 

[gmwilkes]

Agreed on Silky. I've tried a couple of others. They are cheaper to buy, but make less money so that savings is quickly lost.

I have a Hayate and really like it. However, the lighter weight of the Hayauchi feels really good...

Handsaws: If I had only one it would be a straight blade, medium tooth Tsurugi because it is so versatile. However, I use my Sugoi more...much more aggressive, but the wider blade limits its use on smaller trees.

You also talked about the ANSI A300. Make sure you also well versed in the Z133.

In addition to the ANSI books, look at ISA's Best Management Practices. They sell them together.

Also for pruning, it is important to understand the biology. Read up on some Shigo stuff. Ed Gilman's Illustrated Guide to Pruning is also really good. Gilman is more detailed than Chris Luly's book, but Luly's is simpler. While written for young trees, many of the same principles apply to bigger trees too. Here is a primer for his (article contains a link to the book): https://arbordayblog.org/askanarborist/ask-arborist-abcs-pruning/

Frankly, if you can become the local expert at small tree pruning, there is PLENTY of work out there and you can do it with VERY low overhead. I do a lot of trees under $250 each...sometimes in and out in less than an hour and a half. No chainsaw. No chipper needed. Sometimes it takes 2 days to fill up a dump trailer doing those...

Thanks for that information. I’ve thought about what I could do to make myself standout in this area and that may be the ticket. I will look at the books you recommend. I’ve been looking for a few to get started. I also didn’t know about Z133 and will look into that as well. Thanks again.


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[Brushwacker]

I bought a $200 Poulan pro pole CHAINSAW string trimmer combo. 2 small jobs w/ it it paid for itself. Cheaply made in comparison to STIHL but it gives you ability to trim well overhead and is light and easy to use. If u don,t abuse it, they can last quite a while. I GAVE mine to a friend years later after I had a stihl for some time. STIHL is very much tougher but much more effort using it longer periods of time. Wouldn,t mind getting another back in my line up for smaller not so high limbing jobs.

 

[Griff93]

You should see if the Vermeer dealers in your area have a training class. Our local one does a good chainsaw safety and rigging or climbing depending on the year. The classes are led by north American training solutions. Remember this is one of the most dangerous professions. What you don't know as a new guy can kill you. Unfortunately sometimes experienced guys don't make it home either.