What size saw for the job 24", 28", ?

[Ryan'smilling]

I've never done it myself, I let guys like you do it and then buy the saws from them . That's the way I've heard to do it, takes a lot less time than grinding the whole thing out. It is nice to have a stock saw at times, been on plenty of jobs it was what was best, but I usually like the sound of at least a mild muffler mod . They sell the torx security bits at most the big box stores these days or you can order them online. Some guys break the center out of them and use a regular torx, or use a flat screwdriver on them, but I'm not sure if the flat screwdriver technique would work on the transfer covers.

I tried breaking the little nib that's in there, but didn't have any luck. Didn't want to break anything else. Tried a flathead too without success. Actually my regular Torx driver got 3 of the 8 out without a problem. I guess the nibs weren't quite as tall as needed to deter tampering. Luckily my neighbor had a set of them, so I didn't have to drive far. Right tool for the job made it a cinch.

I definitely need to revisit the muffler. I do like a little bark to them. I'd also like to grind the slot on my Stihl mount tsumura 20" bar so I can use it with an @Homelite410 adapter. I think that 2166 with the lightweight tsumura bar will be a nice firewood saw.

 

[NSMaple1]

For the intended OP use - bucking 6 trees - I think I would be happy with say a MS 261 with 20" bar.

I mean, we're only talking 6 trees here. And only bucking. And only pine (softwood).

If you think there could be more than 6 in the future, maybe consider a MS 361. But it would need to be a lot more to truly justify it in my mind.

(I re-read again - that handful of oaks might make me go 360, if it's a decent sized hand).

IMO going with a much longer bar and getting the whole tree diameter in one bite would be harder on a power head than a smaller bar buried it's bull length. All else being equal (same power head). In this case, that is 30" of wood your turning the teeth through, vs. 20". Plus the extra bar length to pull the chain across. Should keep chain speed up better also.

 

[chipper1]

I tried breaking the little nib that's in there, but didn't have any luck. Didn't want to break anything else. Tried a flathead too without success. Actually my regular Torx driver got 3 of the 8 out without a problem. I guess the nibs weren't quite as tall as needed to deter tampering. Luckily my neighbor had a set of them, so I didn't have to drive far. Right tool for the job made it a cinch.

I definitely need to revisit the muffler. I do like a little bark to them. I'd also like to grind the slot on my Stihl mount tsumura 20" bar so I can use it with an @Homelite410 adapter. I think that 2166 with the lightweight tsumura bar will be a nice firewood saw.

Well at least you tried, thank God for neighbors .
The adapter is too long? Yes they are nice set up that way, here she is with a 24 RW Total/tsumara bar.
Here's a nice muffler mod, both the top is larger and way open and thru the mount.

 

[Ryan'smilling]

Well at least you tried, thank God for neighbors .
The adapter is too long? Yes they are nice set up that way, here she is with a 24 RW Total/tsumara bar.
Here's a nice muffler mod, both the top is larger and way open and thru the mount.

Nope, the adapter is perfect, but the studs on huskys are far enough apart that the bar slot be needs to be lengthened about 1/2-3/4 of an inch. Pretty easy with just an angle grinder. Some bars like Cannons don't need it, but some do.

 

[chipper1]

Nope, the adapter is perfect, but the studs on huskys are far enough apart that the bar slot be needs to be lengthened about 1/2-3/4 of an inch. Pretty easy with just an angle grinder. Some bars like Cannons don't need it, but some do.

I've seen that, was just curious what yours needed, I have a 24" Tsumara 3003 ground out like that. I also have an 18" Carlton I need to grind out just so it will work well with a 7 pin, you have to work to get it on, you wouldn't even get an 8 pin on it installing the bar/chain/sprocket at the same time , and I like an 8 pin on that setup so it need to be ground. The 18 is mainly for play, I don't run an 18 on the 70cc saws for work except smaller trees I'm flush cutting that are on uneven ground, on flat ground I'd use a 50cc saw.

Here's the Sugi that I'm pretty sure is a 3003/universal mount over the Tsumara 3003 that was opened up for the adapter, the Sugi is easier with a longer slot. Not sure how long the slot is on my cannon that I use on the huskys with an adapter, but I also have a 24" stihl liteweight that's been ground. Just as with many of the cars/bikes I've built when you step out of the oem parts many times slight mods are required to use other manufactures parts.

 

[VW Splitter]

+ 1 on the 372 .

 

[Husky Man]

I guess the forums and real life are different. A 60cc saw with a 20” would work just fine.....if you do it right.

An Echo 620 will pull a 24” chain for under $600

YEP, You COULD do it with a 60cc/20", but the OP asked about options, and was looking at 24-28" saws.

He said that he already HAS a 50cc saw, so WHY would you recommend a 60cc saw? A 50cc/60cc combo doesn't make any sense, a 50/70cc makes much more sense, especially with what he expects to cut.

If you're just going to "Do it Right", then he Could do that with the 50cc he already has, and not even buy a new saw.


Doug

 

[foeke]

Agree about the 50cc and a sharp chain can surely handle a 30" tree.
But to be clear, that's not my advice.
That would be a slippery slope. Before you know I'm advocating, you could do with a less powerfull daily drive.
A 50/70cc combo works fine in most cases.
50/79cc even better.



Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G955F met Tapatalk

 

[Husky Man]

Here Ya go, it will cut anything will ever need to cut, even prune from the ground.

Doug

 

[svk]

A few years back when I thought I needed larger and more saws that I actually did, I wanted a 70 something CC saw in the worst way. Every saw that came up on the trading post came and went quickly.

I finally found a Jonsered 2186 (85 cc, identical to Husky 385) for about 200 bucks less than what the 70 cc saws were going for. Ran it for a couple years then had Carl Miller spruce it up with new rings, muffler mod, and timing advance. Was an absolute monster after the light mods.

 

[chipper1]

I finally found a Jonsered 2186 (85 cc, identical to Husky 385) for about 200 bucks less than what the 70 cc saws were going for. Ran it for a couple years then had Carl Miller spruce it up with new rings, muffler mod, and timing advance. Was an absolute monster after the light mods, then I sold it because I didnt need it.

Fixed it .

 

[svk]

Fixed it .

In the last year and a half since I sold it, I’ve only processed two 20” plus trees at my cabin. Short of that and the cottonwood job I did for my aunt last summer I wouldn’t have ran it at all.

Oh and I did have to cut one big pine off a hunting trail but that was only a couple of cuts.

 

[chipper1]

In the last year and a half since I sold it, I’ve only processed two 20” plus trees at my cabin. Short of that and the cottonwood job I did for my aunt last summer I wouldn’t have ran it at all.

Oh and I did have to cut one big pine off a hunting trail but that was only a couple of cuts.

I knew that, did you forget, lol. Pretty sure its in Ohio now, I was trying to get it myself.
I here you. I dont do many over 24 and a ported 70cc saw will take car of what I do just fine. I cut a large hard maple this spring with a 28 on a stock low hr 7910 and it did a great job.

 

[muddstopper]

In the last year and a half since I sold it, I’ve only processed two 20” plus trees at my cabin. Short of that and the cottonwood job I did for my aunt last summer I wouldn’t have ran it at all.

Oh and I did have to cut one big pine off a hunting trail but that was only a couple of cuts.

Like most fire wood'ers on here, or maybe I am assuming to much, I don't think anyone scrounging for firewood goes out looking for those extra large size trees to convert into firewood. Sure we get a few every now and then, but unless its really easy to get to and their is equipment on site to load it on my trailer, I usually pass on the really big stuff. Just like cutting off stumps as they built my road, the 390 was great, but I wasn't having any problem keeping up using my 55's. a lot of those stumps where over 24in dia and I had 20in bars, but it still wasn't a problem. As a side note, I don't even know how many stumps I cut off using the 55's, but I never pinched the bar a single time. When I switched to the 390, I pinched the bar on the first two stumps I cut off. I suspect the faster cutting speed of the 390 might of been the cause. I wasn't used to it. Just a nonsensical observation, a slower cutting speed might have an advantage in certain situations, but once I adjusted to the faster cutting speed of the 390, I never pinched the bar on it again either, sooooo???