Partner Chainsaw Thread
- Thread starter Arrowhead
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
powerstroke73
ArboristSite Member
I can't say I've ever heard of it in this part of the country before. I expected it to have Electrolux on it.
She's a keeper for sure.
I have a 400 as well. Runs like a scalded cat. Think it has a clutch problem though.
I hate the choke design on it, it pops back way to easy. The 500/5000 is superior in my mind.
Of the ones I have so far, the R16 choke and on switch feels the best. Saying that, the kill switch on these 500/5000s feels cheap and junky.
From what I understand, Norlett was/is a maker of mowers, cultivators & garden tools, acquired by Elecrolux in 1981.
So fussy! The person who designed the kill switch on the 5000 probably won a design award.
Seriously, at the time, the old slide switches on the Huskys were less reliable than that rivet and blue plastic lever with a spade connector in it.
I posted this somewhere else but all Swedish-made saws were pro saws until somebody made one that wasn't. It wasn't considered necessary to make a cheaper model.
R11, R12, R16 - all pro. P55 is Pro, S55 is Semi-pro. They also had a model named 'Farmsaw' at one point.
P100 was Pro. Then it changed.
Pro saws had 4 digits - 5000 & 7000.
Semi-pro had 3 - 400, 500, 550 & 650.
That said, in terms of ruggedness, I would say the 550 & 650 were "real" Semi-pro material and the 400 & 500 were closer to farm saws, but very good farm saws.
powerstroke73
ArboristSite Member
From what I understand, Norlett was/is a maker of mowers, cultivators & garden tools, acquired by Elecrolux in 1981.
So fussy! The person who designed the kill switch on the 5000 probably won a design award.
Seriously, at the time, the old slide switches on the Huskys were less reliable than that rivet and blue plastic lever with a spade connector in it.
Fussy for sure, maybe brand new they felt good. How dare a 20 or 30 year old switch not work as good.... Lol
Had the new 500 out, works like a charm. Starts and runs mint. Started first pull, leaks bar oil like every other one of these saws.
Also figured out the problem I was having with the R16. It was the starter pawls, maybe the springs are getting weak. After fooling around with it for a bit, there was a bit of a lip on the metal part of the recoil housing. Filed that down, and brought the Idle of the saw up a it bit and it has gone away completely. I guess at certain low rpms the pawls are bouncing in and catching the starter. Runs like a dream now.
Huskybill
Addicted to ArboristSite
One of my excellent condition husky 268 has a bad ign switch. It has three detents the first two are off the third one all the way left is on. The po didn’t tell me this maybe he couldn’t figure it out the saw is like new.
Vibration kills them over time. The early ones that were only grounded by the copper tangs on either side, used to wear the mounting hole and/or the tangs to the point where they no longer made good contact.
The later black & red plastic ones with a screw earth tab were generally an improvement in this regard.
powerstroke73
ArboristSite Member
Question maybe someone can answer. I have two 5000s. The 1983 i replaced the coil on, and the unknown "Frakensaw" Ive put together.
Both have different fuel tank vent setups. Frankensaw has a line that comes out of tank, and has a small canister plugged into the end of the line that must function as a vent. This saw works fine. The 83 has a line that comes from the fuel tank, through the plastic "heatshield" and looks to go down into the crankcase. It has some sort of contraption in the fuel line itself. Which style is correct? Or what difference do they make?
The one that vents into the crankcase is giving me a hell of a time to run. When I opened the fuel cap to check fuel, fuel went everywhere like the tank was pressurized. So I'm wondering if it is plugged.
Both have different fuel tank vent setups. Frankensaw has a line that comes out of tank, and has a small canister plugged into the end of the line that must function as a vent. This saw works fine. The 83 has a line that comes from the fuel tank, through the plastic "heatshield" and looks to go down into the crankcase. It has some sort of contraption in the fuel line itself. Which style is correct? Or what difference do they make?
The one that vents into the crankcase is giving me a hell of a time to run. When I opened the fuel cap to check fuel, fuel went everywhere like the tank was pressurized. So I'm wondering if it is plugged.
I'd have to check the latest IPL to be sure but the setup that vents into the cavity between the crankcase and the fuel tank is the way it is originally.
However, if someone has modified it using the kind of venting used on many other saws, it may work better for you.
I'm guessing that the daytime temp in Halifax in summer is about the same as it is here is winter. (Forecast for tomorrow here is 22c.)
The unified c/case and fuel tank means the 5000 was never going to be at it's best when it's hot. The idea of running the tank vent into the cavity so that further evaporation might better insulate the tank from heat transfer is more noble than effective.
The 5000 is a really good cold climate saw. That said, the only time I have ever seen 95 octane alcohol-free fuel actually bubbling like a cauldron was in a 5000Plus fuel tank on a hot summer day in western Sydney.
I had both on the 5000's. One is the early set up and the black tank deal is the newer run of them imo.
Would the inline tank vent do this if it is installed in your line upside down or the brass plug in end maybe plugged up? Some things to check.
newer http://ersatzteillisten.motoruf.de/Partner/Motorsaegen/IPL, Partner, P5000, 1986-01, Chain Saw.pdf
early http://s30387.gridserver.com/partsDiagrams/Partner 5000+.pdf
These during lot of warm weather cutting have always did this on this series around here aka gas bubbling in tank. I mean alot of cutting and use too, not just piddling around.
Would the inline tank vent do this if it is installed in your line upside down or the brass plug in end maybe plugged up? Some things to check.
newer http://ersatzteillisten.motoruf.de/Partner/Motorsaegen/IPL, Partner, P5000, 1986-01, Chain Saw.pdf
early http://s30387.gridserver.com/partsDiagrams/Partner 5000+.pdf
These during lot of warm weather cutting have always did this on this series around here aka gas bubbling in tank. I mean alot of cutting and use too, not just piddling around.
Seems your "newer" is my early.
Potentially confusingly, this is what I found in a 1990 "Formula 500" IPL.
powerstroke73
ArboristSite Member
We have been pushing 30 , and close to 40 with the humidity here the last few weeks. Yesterday was closer to the 30 mark.
Thanks to both of you. Ill play around with it and see what happens. You never know what someone else has done til you take it all aprt. Will I have to plug the hole in the crankcase that the fuel line runs into if I switch it up?
In other news, I got my mystery saw running. Recoil spring, pull cord, spark plug wire and sticky throttle lever fixed. I still have to make sure the carb is setup properly, but as of now it runs and starts pretty well. Whatever it is, it's got balls.
I blame that giant fusion reactor in the sky.
It's just a cavity open at the top and I think it also has a gap in one of the case halves to form a drain at the bottom so I wouldn't think so.
Is this the one with the extended top cylinder fin?
powerstroke73
ArboristSite Member
I blame that giant fusion reactor in the sky.
It's just a cavity open at the top and I think it also has a gap in one of the case halves to form a drain at the bottom so I wouldn't think so.
Is this the one with the extended top cylinder fin?
Edit: So I remeasured the cylinder because I realized I was reading the calipers wrong. Rookie mistake. I got 48mm. Which would put it at 65cc. So it may in fact be an R420 after all.
It is the saw with the extended fin. Now that its working, I'd say it is the best starting saw out of all the Partners I have. I used it a bit yesterday evening to nip up a few 4x4 posts for firewood and while it runs excellent she got real hot. Couldn't touch the top cover and burn the bar oil that sprayed its way on the side of the cylinder hot. I'm guessing one of the big weaknesses in these saws is the mufflers ability to be crushed easily. This and the 3 parts saws that came with it all have the front face on the muffler pushed in. Id reckon a guess it cant exhaust properly.
So I am now on the hunt for a non smushed muffler. If anyone has one around, feel free to shoot me a message.
she cleaned up real nice though.
peter92
Addicted to ArboristSite
very nice , whats the serial number on the saw , that will tell you what model the saw is
powerstroke73
ArboristSite Member
peter92
Addicted to ArboristSite
Hope this helps you out , traced my R40 in here finally ********************************/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=357&t=24453
powerstroke73
ArboristSite Member
Cant get the link to work? It comes up as an error.
Similar threads
Latest posts
-
-
-
Removing a branch from a liquid amber/sweet gum - stability issues?- Latest: singinwoodwackr
-
Anyone with a Harbor Freight Chain sharpener try and do a square grind?
- Latest: singinwoodwackr
-
