For Honey Locust you may want to try some Stihl carbide chain. It maintains its edge beautifully in “sparky” wood!
MS462 Bar Size... is bigger better???
- Thread starter nch209
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For Honey Locust you may want to try some Stihl carbide chain. It maintains its edge beautifully in “sparky” wood!
nch209
ArboristSite Member
So I just grabbed a cheap 20 E stihl bar since I have some left over chain--- figure use it for beatings in stumps and roots. 25es light for regular all around duties. Thanks for opinions.
These sites will have you running an 880 for a 28”+ bar if you let them. It’s been proven many times larger bars can be run on smaller saws as long as the Oiler is turned up and you let the saw do the work.
Many also complain or mention the balance of the bar/saw as it sits on the ground. Well a Light saw is going to lean forward with a large bar, luckily I have 2 hands. One goes on the front and one goes on the back so the balance issue is a bit overrated.
I’d Take a 4lb saw that could run a 36 if they made one vs saying it doesn’t balance right, lol. Of course it doesn’t.
Wait get a 40lb saw to run a 25”+ bar.
Many also complain or mention the balance of the bar/saw as it sits on the ground. Well a Light saw is going to lean forward with a large bar, luckily I have 2 hands. One goes on the front and one goes on the back so the balance issue is a bit overrated.
I’d Take a 4lb saw that could run a 36 if they made one vs saying it doesn’t balance right, lol. Of course it doesn’t.
Wait get a 40lb saw to run a 25”+ bar.
I've got a loop of the high chrome Oregon Duracut semi chisel that I plan to test out soon. Semi chisel definitely lasts longer in Locust, but it cuts painfully slow.
Waiting on my brand new ported MS462C to test out the duracut.
I'd love to have a loop of the carbide just to give the middle finger to the locust.
Ultimately, joke would be on me though.
I have no way to sharpen it.
I know how you feel! My BIL went through 3 regular chains in 20 minutes on very hard, dry bluegum. Once he made the switch to carbide, he went through 3 full-day sessions on the same wood before he needed a touch-up (chain was not properly dull). Fortunately, I have a diamond disc, so I could help him with it.If you speak to the dealers in your area, I'm certain one will be able to help you touch up the carbide cutters for a reasonable rate. That way you can show the locust the middle finger!!!
Buy 2 bars. When I bought my new 660 I got a 25, 36, and 42. At the register the dealer told me that the 42 would void my warranty, so I put it back. He said just come back later, I won't know what it's for. I've got bigger bars on other saws so I never really needed it. I have multiple bars for my mid CC saws, it's easier to take a couple saws with extra bars, to cover all encounters, than taking 6-7 saws to do the same thing.
nch209
ArboristSite Member
Just as a follow up, been using a 25 light, and slamming down the wood. Been very happy with it, and think I would have been good with either the 25 or 28. The 25 covers my needs nicely, and is a heck of a step up from a 20 on a 362. I am also enjoying the 462, it is a nice saw for sure, but not sure how I ran smaller saws like a 390 and 362 for so long. I had intentions of grabbing a 261, and might if the deal is right, but the fact is the 462 on a 25 bar is a dang good one saw wonder. I do not have the star struck awe factor so many preach about the 462, rather I feel it is just a nice light saw with proper power to get you out of jam. I only have about 5 tanks through it, and hope is gains some power (Though I often think this is an old wives tale to some degree...)
For everything there is a purpose. When I was in my teens and early 20's, working for my Dad, we had 3 basic size saws. Super EZ's for climbing, XL12's for ground work, and Super 1050's for big wood. I got tired of the other guys grabbing my XL12, running it in the ground, then putting it back on the truck dull. So, I started using the Super 1050 for everything. It's a big, heavy, 100CC saw. I used it as my go to saw for about 30 years. Yesterday I was helping a friend noodle up a big Tulip Poplar log, so he could load it on my dump trailer, and take it to relatives. I was using the 660 with a 25" bar. I was cutting and he was loading. It only took about an hour and a half to fill the trailer. I could hardly move the rest of the day. Nowadays, I don't pass up the chance to grab one of the old Super 2's, EZ's or my little MS170. If I run across a Mini Mac 6 at an auction I plan on grabbing it, especially if it has an 8-10" bar. Funny how perspectives change as you get older.
I cut Black and Honey Locust all day with one chain, just keep it out of the dirt. Black Locust has deep bark and will hold dirt, and dull saws quickly. I've also known guys that live in areas where plowed fields get wind blown dirt trapped in the bark too. As far as it being so hard it dulls saws is nonsense. It's like people always saying "Ironwood" dulls a saw in the first couple cuts. Ironwood is a name given to 8-10 varieties of Hophorn/Hophornbeam, which are members of the birch family. No one complains about varieties of Birch dulling saws. Next time any one needs advice on cutting Locust, ask Turnkey4099 how he does it. He has 50-60 cord of it CSS stored up for his old age. Next time I get into some Locust I'll shoot a vid, and post it on this thread, if I can find it.
So the sparks are coming from dirt in the bark?
I know several woodworkers who mill Teakwood and they all recommend carbide blades due to its silica content.
Apparently Teak picks up in the wood sand as it grows.
I assumed that was why my chains dull so quickly in honey locust.
I just did a search, " is there silica in Teak wood", and it said that Teak naturally has Silica in it, and can cause blunting in cutting tools. But, as I said, I cut Locust all the time and it dulls a saw no faster than any other wood. But, some types of Locust have very deep bark and if it was skidded out of the woods, the bark is going to be packed with dirt. If I have to cut up a log I cut most of the way through, then roll it over and stick the bar in the cut and under cut it the rest of the way through. That way it's cutting the wood first and the dirty bark last, hopefully breaking through the bark before it spins 12,000 RPM in the packed in dirt. If you roll it over and see chunks of dirt you will have to cut through to finish the cut, take an ax and chop the dirt out. If I have a long log and have made cuts all the way from end to end, and can't roll it over, I take a small saw with say a 16" bar, and slowly cut through every fourth or fifth block, to make short logs I can roll. I cut slowly so it barely touches the ground, and hopefully won't dull before I'm done, But, I use it as a sacrificial chain. I'd rather dull a small 3/8's chain than 114 link big 404 chain. My wife's aunt and uncle live about 5 minutes from Raleigh/Durham Airport and I've cut lots of trees for them and see no difference from trees I cut in MD. I grew up in a 4th generation tree care family. One of the first things you learn is a saw will cut wood for days and not dull much, unless you hit dirt, then it dulls fast. I'm talking cutting firewood, not milling. Milling is a whole different story. Please understand, I'm not trying to talk down to you. I just don't know you or your skill level. The best way I can put what a little dirt does to a chain is, take a brand new razor, rub the blade on your concrete side walk 3 times, then go shave with it. If you are cutting up a log and break through into the dirt for 1/2 a second, and then do that ten times, it's like running your chain on the sidewalk for 5 seconds, at 10-12,000 RPM. As for sparks flying from the bar, I've seen them in daylight, cutting up brush with a loose chain. Figured it was from the chain flopping back and forth and rubbing on the inside edges of the bar. Tightened up the chain and no more problem. But, don't over tighten the chain, that will burn it up and definitely cause sparks. I've hit metal and seen sparks fly, instant dull. Do a self check and cut up a log on the ground like you usually do, then walk down the other side and see if there are any lines in the grass or dirt where you nicked the ground. That's the biggest cause of a fast dulling saw for a new guy. Not trying to lecture, I just saw you were new here, and hoped I could help.
redbull660
Addicted to ArboristSite
24" tsumura lite weight. lighter than stihl lite and better quality and cheaper. and yeah I sell them. 85 shipped. beat that.
redbull660
Addicted to ArboristSite
Better quality?
yeah I'd say so...
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Spectre468
ArboristSiteNoob
I stuck with the 25" bar on mine.
Spectre468
ArboristSiteNoob
I think it actually feels better in the hands cutting with the standard ES bar.
So you’re saying that pseudo scientifically tested temperature is directly correlated to rail hardness and sprocket tip life?
I don’t think so.
As to a 25 standard vs a light, I’d imagine the standard bar would balance better on that saw than a lightweight one.
redbull660
Addicted to ArboristSite
yeah don't think I said any of that.
you imagine?
I've owned and tested a few bars see pic (which is just the tip of the iceberg of my craziness). My personal experience was the lite bar (regardless of flavor) balanced the saw much much better than a regular weight bar. That also goes for a 261 362 440 461 460 461 064 066 660 661 084 088 880 572xp 562 390 394 395 385 3120 346 7910...well just every saw I've helped tree monkey work on so that list could get long.
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Nathan Graff
ArboristSite Operative
Who is the greek powerseller?
