The unofficial Mac 10-10 thread

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

I'm right down below you and if your gonna buy a non running saw might as well make friends with your scrap guys and junk men , I'll pay for a nice saw or the 700, ( I have 2).
Honestly though I'm constantly stopping buy scrap yards and asking about old saws , half a dozen 10- 10s later and have not paid more than 20$ for them , all ran but most need the usual carb kits ,seals and a good scub.
Old saw shops aren't too bad but they usually run higher 50- 100$ range.
Personally I feel better about rescuing an old saw from the dreaded junk piles of the scrap yards , and even if you pay 10$ for one thats no good it becomes (parts support).View attachment 754885
10$ needs a seal but runs , scrap yard saw.

Great post right there most of my saws have been scrap bin finds or giveaways. Got a really really tidy 1 owner 10-10 off a work mate (the father in law is having a well deserved rest in peace now) his nice Mac is not so lucky . It was heading to the dump also her wouldn't take any money but 4 months later I gave him some firewood.

Don't know yet, I got my 2-10 in a multi saw deal over a year ago and it has just been hanging from the ceiling ever since. Currently dialing in my sp81 and working on my 790. After those plan is to bring it down and dig in.

Fair enough i would be doing exactly the same. Really happy for ya with that sp81 it's a keeper man for sure

Well, the "must haves" in the 10 series saws are a PM850, SP81, and the 7-10. They aren't cheap when you find them unless they're pretty well clapped out. Otherwise, most any version of 10-10 is worthwhile depending on cost and condition. And most will run even if they've been sitting for years (as will most Macs). As mentioned, there are a few variants that are 57cc's with the 10-10S being the only 57cc "10-10" while the others are essentially just re-badged 10-10's for marketing purposes.

You pretty much can't go wrong with any 10 series Mac, but should be able to rustle up a 10-10 quite a bit cheaper than the prices you mentioned. Paid $25 for my last one with a bar and chain and it runs with no tank leaks. They're out there.

Dam it poge lol I forgot about those must haves since yesterday lol. 81 or 850 id be happy with eather 1. Don't neeeed them the 800 certainly does the trick but it's just not an 81. 81 muffler though hehe

 

[mogulmasher]

One thing that's interesting to me is the difference in weight between these saws that basically look the same. Somewhat recently I got rid of a 10-10s and I just sold my newer (Black and Decker labeled) pm700 2 days ago. These 2 saws felt substantially heavier than my older 10 series saws. My sp81 feels a lot lighter than the pm700 I just sold. I'm guessing the newer stuff used cheaper materials that were heavier?

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

One thing that's interesting to me is the difference in weight between these saws that basically look the same. Somewhat recently I got rid of a 10-10s and I just sold my newer (Black and Decker labeled) pm700 2 days ago. These 2 saws felt substantially heavier than my older 10 series saws. My sp81 feels a lot lighter than the pm700 I just sold. I'm guessing the newer stuff used cheaper materials that were heavier?

Yeah Mark mentioned they dropped the magnesium tanks for alloy a while back. Go pick up that 2-10 compared to a pm10-10 it's amazing. The 7-10 is a lovely saw it's powerful it's light it sounds amazing so a 81 really must be 1 hell of a saw.

Still like to run my scrap bin 700 too the weight isn't too bad atleast it 70cc vs the pm10-10 54cc.

Have ya noticed all the little details and Mac logos on the older saws? Vs later pm versions

 

[mogulmasher]

Yes I love all the older vintage logos and styling. Makes them just looked classic. Plus I like the older yellow better too, the newer saws are a shade towards orange or something.

And oh yeah, that 81 rips! Just tried it for first time. It's still not taking a tune right, it needs duckbill valve in gas cap replaced and probably should throw a carb kit in it.

 

[jerrycmorrow]

Not taking tune? Check crank seals

 

[mogulmasher]

No change in rpm holding saw side to side. Gonna try the simple stuff first. Black goop is dripping out of the gas cap, so I know that's an issue right off the bat.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Yes I love all the older vintage logos and styling. Makes them just looked classic. Plus I like the older yellow better too, the newer saws are a shade towards orange or something.

And oh yeah, that 81 rips! Just tried it for first time. It's still not taking a tune right, it needs duckbill valve in gas cap replaced and probably should throw a carb kit in it.View attachment 754959

Good Sh!t man awesome saw yeah a lot of times crank seals get blamed for carb issues

 

[mogulmasher]

Can somebody confirm correct order of installation for new duckbill valve? With the brass vent in my hand, duckbill valve in with bill bill facing up, then spring with smaller diameter down over valve?

 

[heimannm]

Big end of the spring goes in first, small end against the duckbill valve. Some also had a brass fitting between the spring and the duckbill valve.

Mark

 

[mogulmasher]

Big end of the spring goes in first, small end against the duckbill valve. Some also had a brass fitting between the spring and the duckbill valve.

Mark

No brass fitting between them here, just a spring fell out and a bunch of black goo. Thanks for confirming the order Mark!

 

[iwannachopwood]

Hello all again, I’m putting my 10-10 together,
Thanks to Mark again for the awsome new parts, I changed the piston rings (in tolerance to the manual compared to the old ones)
Got the jug glued to the crankcase with 515 with new seals.
My problem comes with the oiler, I believe I have a automatic Oiler but my crankcase does not have the 2 bolt holes to secure all four corners of the pump. There is no bolt holes where I put black marker on the case. and my pump (that came with this unit) has threaded holes
Wrong pump for this case?

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Hello all again, I’m putting my 10-10 together,
Thanks to Mark again for the awsome new parts, I changed the piston rings (in tolerance to the manual compared to the old ones)
Got the jug glued to the crankcase with 515 with new seals.
My problem comes with the oiler, I believe I have a automatic Oiler but my crankcase does not have the 2 bolt holes to secure all four corners of the pump. There is no bolt holes where I put black marker on the case. and my pump (that came with this unit) has threaded holes
Wrong pump for this case?

Ok yup fair questions so originally the auto pumps used all the holes then they got dropped in favour of a spring clip to hole the back of the pump up. You should have a small bit of flat with two ears on it that fit into the rear holes.

Do some searching I'm at work and can't show you the parts right now but it is simple enough

 

[iwannachopwood]

Ok appears I’m missing this “flat” I require!
I posted a picture of what may be them? I don’t think so..


I also require the rectangular wiper felt in the breaker box.
I require the felt washer x2 between the Teflon washers behind the key way behind the flywheel.

Some of the pictures uploaded in previous posts are unavailable but I’m searching.

Setting timing is tough without a depth gauge,I cannot find a Scribe line like a scratch. I’m lucky to have another saw right beside me I think I’m close. I got 16 tho on the points when the crankshaft cams it over. I really need them electronic ignition modules x4 cuz I’m not sure I understand this whole points system.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Ok appears I’m missing this “flat” I require!
I posted a picture of what may be them? I don’t think so..


I also require the rectangular wiper felt in the breaker box.
I require the felt washer x2 between the Teflon washers behind the key way behind the flywheel.

Some of the pictures uploaded in previous posts are unavailable but I’m searching.

Setting timing is tough without a depth gauge,I cannot find a Scribe line like a scratch. I’m lucky to have another saw right beside me I think I’m close. I got 16 tho on the points when the crankshaft cams it over. I really need them electronic ignition modules x4 cuz I’m not sure I understand this whole points system.

Yeah I'm in the same boat as you with points lucky my points saws have spark lol.

Um I would probably pm Mark as he may be your man for those we bits

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

I'm struggling to find a picture for you.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Ok appears I’m missing this “flat” I require!
I posted a picture of what may be them? I don’t think so..


I also require the rectangular wiper felt in the breaker box.
I require the felt washer x2 between the Teflon washers behind the key way behind the flywheel.

Some of the pictures uploaded in previous posts are unavailable but I’m searching.

Setting timing is tough without a depth gauge,I cannot find a Scribe line like a scratch. I’m lucky to have another saw right beside me I think I’m close. I got 16 tho on the points when the crankshaft cams it over. I really need them electronic ignition modules x4 cuz I’m not sure I understand this whole points system.

I cut my own wick and washer from craft store felt , and wool felt for the wick , just like Martha Stewart !

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Ok appears I’m missing this “flat” I require!
I posted a picture of what may be them? I don’t think so..


I also require the rectangular wiper felt in the breaker box.
I require the felt washer x2 between the Teflon washers behind the key way behind the flywheel.

Some of the pictures uploaded in previous posts are unavailable but I’m searching.

Setting timing is tough without a depth gauge,I cannot find a Scribe line like a scratch. I’m lucky to have another saw right beside me I think I’m close. I got 16 tho on the points when the crankshaft cams it over. I really need them electronic ignition modules x4 cuz I’m not sure I understand this whole points system.

Forgot to say that picture you put up is the locking strap for the muffler

 

[iwannachopwood]

Thanks Jethro! And everyone else for their 2cents. im having trouble finding where all these parts went!

As for intake gasket, fuel tank gasket both sides of the plastic Intake spacer. Pictured below, have you have good luck cutting them out of gasket material or gasket maker? Or doomed for oem, I made the exh out of red heat cone.

 

[heimannm]

The automatic oil pump should be installed with the "tapered" or wedge shaped hard rubber seal (gasket) and the spring clip to hold it in place. The gasket is 92818 and the spring kit is 215246 and included the spring clip and the brass eyelets in the plastic pump body to help prevent the spring clip from digging into the pump body.







For the three screw installation you need the pump with the aluminum body as the plastic body won't hold the screws.

Gap the point between 0.018 and 0.020" and the timing will be spot on. No need to measure the piston height or position of the flywheel.

The two gaskets shown above go on either side of the insulator that goes between the block and the fuel tank.

Mark

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

The automatic oil pump should be installed with the "tapered" or wedge shaped hard rubber seal (gasket) and the spring clip to hold it in place. The gasket is 92818 and the spring kit is 215246 and included the spring clip and the brass eyelets in the plastic pump body to help prevent the spring clip from digging into the pump body.

View attachment 755468

View attachment 755471

View attachment 755472

For the three screw installation you need the pump with the aluminum body as the plastic body won't hold the screws.

Gap the point between 0.018 and 0.020" and the timing will be spot on. No need to measure the piston height or position of the flywheel.

The two gaskets shown above go on either side of the insulator that goes between the block and the fuel tank.

Mark

That's the wee bigger thanks Mark