Jonsered Chainsaws

Treestuff
Rugged made
Wesspur
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Cantdog said:
Hey Lee!! How goes it?? I figgered when I saw the location on ebay it was your set!!! Geeeze I haven't even started my 111S since I was down to your GTG!
Click to expand...

Going well Robin, I haven't run any of mine either since then. been unloading some parts here. Just to many
I finally realized I may never use them all. Getting ride of some parts saws or project saws as well.
 
Hey there Jonsered fans!

I’ve got an ‘84 630 with stripped out threads in the head for the muffler studs and am trying to decide on the best course of action...

The saw runs great, you’d never know it was 35 years old- and had a career in the woods before I got it.

I guess my options are:
  1. Helicoil and repair the threads
  2. Replace the jug and piston
If I replace the top end I’m tempted to go with a big bore kit but will the stock 630 carburetor keep up?

Let me know if any pics might help. Thanks for the input!
 
J-Red said:
Hey there Jonsered fans!

I’ve got an ‘84 630 with stripped out threads in the head for the muffler studs and am trying to decide on the best course of action...

The saw runs great, you’d never know it was 35 years old- and had a career in the woods before I got it.

I guess my options are:
  1. Helicoil and repair the threads
  2. Replace the jug and piston
If I replace the top end I’m tempted to go with a big bore kit but will the stock 630 carburetor keep up?

Let me know if any pics might help. Thanks for the input!
Click to expand...

If you have enough meat, use a steel insert like EZ-Loc or if it’s narrow, use one of their thin wall inserts.

I’ve never had a failure on one of their inserts. There is a red LocTite product that is made for high heat application. I have a tube of it and the stuff is great.

The more expensive way is with Timeserts or having it welded and then tapped.

And don’t fall into the trap argument that you can’t use steel inserts in aluminum because of the expansion and contraction of dissimilar metals. It’s absolutely false in this case. After all, you’re screwing steel bolts into aluminum to hold the muffler from the factory. The steel inserts become a better 'anchor' for the muffler bolts.

Kevin
 
Helicoils will work for awhile but not the best place for them due to heating, cooling and vibration. Replacement is the best long term option. If you go with a 50 or 52 MM P&C it will depend on what carb yours has......likely as early as that probably be a 118 which is the smallest carb for those....if it's a 225 that will be better as it has a larger venturi. A 118 will runs the saw ok but you'll not be getting as much performance. There are many directions you can go in this family of saws.
 
Real1shepherd said:
If you have enough meat, use a steel insert like EZ-Loc or if it’s narrow, use one of their thin wall inserts.

I’ve never had a failure on one of their inserts. There is a red LocTite product that is made for high heat application. I have a tube of it and the stuff is great.

The more expensive way is with Timeserts or having it welded and then tapped.

And don’t fall into the trap argument that you can’t use steel inserts in aluminum because of the expansion and contraction of dissimilar metals. It’s absolutely false in this case. After all, you’re screwing steel bolts into aluminum to hold the muffler from the factory.

Kevin
Click to expand...

Yep it would all depend on how wallered out the holes were......not much room on those flanges to oversize much.....maybe a thin wall insert would work. I don't have much confidence in small helicoils in aluminum....vibration is very harsh right there. Inserts are way better. Removing the cyl and welding the holes in then flattening with a file and retapping would likely be the best option for repair as there is just not any extra meat around those holes. I had a 630V that someone had tried to weld in but the welder wasn't terribly clever and it just trashed the cyl......I had a good cyl kicking around so after a very short time fussing with it I gave up and just bolted the extra cyl on it and went and cut wood......I even used the original piston that was the notorious thin ring type but the rings not carboned up were in great shape with good close end gap....it ran great. The old V models came with the 225 carb.......I imagine to help run the extra load of the alternator.....
 
Cantdog said:
Yep it would all depend on how wallered out the holes were......not much room on those flanges to oversize much.....maybe a thin wall insert would work. I don't have much confidence in small helicoils in aluminum....vibration is very harsh right there. Inserts are way better. Removing the cyl and welding the holes in then flattening with a file and retapping would likely be the best option for repair as there is just not any extra meat around those holes. I had a 630V that someone had tried to weld in but the welder wasn't terribly clever and it just trashed the cyl......I had a good cyl kicking around so after a very short time fussing with it I gave up and just bolted the extra cyl on it and went and cut wood......I even used the original piston that was the notorious thin ring type but the rings not carboned up were in great shape with good close end gap....it ran great. The old V models came with the 225 carb.......I imagine to help run the extra load of the alternator.....
Click to expand...

I generally hate heilcoils. To me, they are a temp fix for something that won't have a fastener screwed in & out very much. Anyway, my experience with them has not been good.....hence the recommendation to use steel inserts.

Definitely welding the holes shut and re-tapping is the way to go.....but usually not for the amateur welder. If going this route, just get a pro to fill in the holes and then you file down and retap.

The holes are ruined anyway, try the thin-wall insert first.

Got some fond memories of Widbey Island.:cheers:

Kevin
 
Thanks for the suggestions and clarification... I had the same question about dissimilar metals.

"And don’t fall into the trap argument that you can’t use steel inserts in aluminum because of the expansion and contraction of dissimilar metals. It’s absolutely false in this case. After all, you’re screwing steel bolts into aluminum to hold the muffler from the factory. The steel inserts become a better 'anchor' for the muffler bolts."

I think I like the weld and tap method if I keep the stock head, I'll check on the carb size next.

Thanks for the input!
 
J-Red said:
I think I'll give those thin walled inserts a try, brother-in-law is a welder if that doesn't work.

I've lived on Whidbey most of my life... love it here! What brought you to the island?
Click to expand...

I’ve just been a visitor there. If I could take the rain, I’d live there.

Because of the heat in the exhaust portion of the jug, use that high temp LocTite product.

E-Z Lok is the correct insert name I believe. I don’t have the company’s website bookmarked. Probably be better off anyway with a supplier. Our hardware store here stocks them.....not the thin wall though.

Kevin
 

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