Jonsered Chainsaws

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Low hrs saws are the best to find. Even if the paint gets knocked off from moving around, the low hr factor is unbeatable. Enjoy!

Kevin


Yes they are......that 49 is one of the later models with the Teflon (?) coated top handle....these scratch up pretty easily compared to the older plastic coated handles.......and clutch covers always take a beating with a half wrap when fueling/adding bar oil etc. I've always found the most reliable way to quickly judge the amount of use on these old Jonsereds is how much wear on the paint on the trigger handle where a fella's hand fits to operate it. Barring the info from a one owner saw that is. Of course you have to look at the whole saw as the trigger handle could well have been replaced.....and by that I mean it could have been replaced with a new pretty one or perhaps a more worn used one. You get used to using and looking at certain saws and you can come pretty darn close judging how well or bad a saw has been treated and how much use it has one it.
 
Yes they are......that 49 is one of the later models with the Teflon (?) coated top handle....these scratch up pretty easily compared to the older plastic coated handles.......and clutch covers always take a beating with a half wrap when fueling/adding bar oil etc. I've always found the most reliable way to quickly judge the amount of use on these old Jonsereds is how much wear on the paint on the trigger handle where a fella's hand fits to operate it. Barring the info from a one owner saw that is. Of course you have to look at the whole saw as the trigger handle could well have been replaced.....and by that I mean it could have been replaced with a new pretty one or perhaps a more worn used one. You get used to using and looking at certain saws and you can come pretty darn close judging how well or bad a saw has been treated and how much use it has one it.

Agree and then once owning them.......it's sort of a 'feeling' that things are original and/or low hr. It's like a combination of visual wear pluses that just seems to cement the fact that it is indeed, low hr. Like you said, if you have a perfect trigger handle, but the rest of the saw shows more wear...then you know the handle was replaced etc.

Before there were chainsaw 'collectors', these were just saws that represented utility. Whether or not the owner used OE parts was entirely up to him and usually driven by price and availability. It wasn't like everyone had a saw shrine in their garage and they worshiped it every night. Now, I'm not so sure....lol.

Kevin
 
Agree and then once owning them.......it's sort of a 'feeling' that things are original and/or low hr. It's like a combination of visual wear pluses that just seems to cement the fact that it is indeed, low hr. Like you said, if you have a perfect trigger handle, but the rest of the saw shows more wear...then you know the handle was replaced etc.

Before there were chainsaw 'collectors', these were just saws that represented utility. Whether or not the owner used OE parts was entirely up to him and usually driven by price and availability. It wasn't like everyone had a saw shrine in their garage and they worshiped it every night. Now, I'm not so sure....lol.

Kevin

You got that right Kevin.......it was always "Run what Ya Brung and fix it with whatever you had around". Back before there were a lot of metric fasteners readily available folks did what I always hated.......if they lost or stripped out a top cover or recoil cover bolt they'd just screw in whatever std bolt could be forced in the old hole. Man that always pizzed me off......'course I most always had euro junk for wheels so I was used to having to scrounge up fasteners.......seen quite a few 621s and 80s with 1/4'" screws cranked into them. I have a whole container that has 4 and 5MM screw in inserts in it. They not cheap......like $8 bux a pop...but I already had the bits and taps......nice to put the correct bolts back.......then when you take it apart it is like Jonsereds meant it to be......two/three allen wrenches and scrench take the whole saw apart...on a stump or tailgate....
 
You got that right Kevin.......it was always "Run what Ya Brung and fix it with whatever you had around". Back before there were a lot of metric fasteners readily available folks did what I always hated.......if they lost or stripped out a top cover or recoil cover bolt they'd just screw in whatever std bolt could be forced in the old hole. Man that always pizzed me off......'course I most always had euro junk for wheels so I was used to having to scrounge up fasteners.......seen quite a few 621s and 80s with 1/4'" screws cranked into them. I have a whole container that has 4 and 5MM screw in inserts in it. They not cheap......like $8 bux a pop...but I already had the bits and taps......nice to put the correct bolts back.......then when you take it apart it is like Jonsereds meant it to be......two/three allen wrenches and scrench take the whole saw apart...on a stump or tailgate....

Oh man, that’s a great point! I always went to great lengths (and distances) to find metric fasteners. And it was hell back in the day to find metric anything, including tools. Americans took the entitlement stance that metric would go away and the world would adopt SAE.

Even the great NAPA stores of yore would yield nothing. Boy, that takes me back; the hunt for metric. Gawd, you were unAmerican to ask for metric...lol.

That’s all I ever had in the woods for the Huskies; four metric Allen’s and a scrench, courtesy Bailey’s.

Kevin
 
Hey there Jonsered fans!

I’ve got an ‘84 630 with stripped out threads in the head for the muffler studs and am trying to decide on the best course of action...

The saw runs great, you’d never know it was 35 years old- and had a career in the woods before I got it.

I guess my options are:
  1. Helicoil and repair the threads
  2. Replace the jug and piston
If I replace the top end I’m tempted to go with a big bore kit but will the stock 630 carburetor keep up?

Let me know if any pics might help. Thanks for the input!


When I was working for the engineering group I set up the metric fasteners. I had ordered 7mm hex head and Allen socket screws. There very hard to find here in the states back then (three decades ago)but maybe easier to find now, my point is the 7 mm screw size fits in the 6 mm clearance hole. Just drill and tap it. Check the clearance hole size first.

https://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_tap_bolts_Zinc_plated_class_8.8_steel_7mm_x_1.0mm.aspx
 
A 630 I took out ran pretty well today. I tried getting my 49 going, but it has been a long while. No luck and it will need some probing. There is a lot of Doug fir (compared to the norm) on the way out around these parts. Beetle, stress, drought are all catching up to some of them. Seems every time I am out there are more and more ideal sized firewood trees just waiting to come down.


DSC02753.JPG DSC02757.JPG
 
Yeah can't believe the beetle damage and drought effects.....I don't know if there is a solution anytime in the near future.

I was working on a job a number of yrs ago and noticed a small hole in a tree. On closer examination, it was the complete shed exoskeleton of one of those beetles. Had one-way barbs so you couldn't pull it from the tree (sorry birds) and was armed like a tank against would-be predators. I can see why this thing is thriving, nothing in the woods can get it out of the trees.

Love Dougs for firewood....makes a superb fire. Nice looking wood.

Kevin
 
Those Doug fir beetles are seriously concerning for certain. I know the government is trying to monitor them and respond accordingly, but there is really nothing to be done when they move in. It is a death sentence. They burrow in for the winter and move in the spring. As soon as I spot a tree with fresh frass tubes at the bottom, it is dead by this time next year. When you peel the bark back they fall out by the 1000's. Best solution is to cut and burn before they can find another host the following spring. It is interesting that they leave a chemical signature when they move on to the next victim. New beetles recognize this and instead find a more "suitable" host. One and done. Apparently you can mark healthy trees with the same pheromone and trick them into thinking they are no longer virgin territory. Highly energy efficient creatures.

I was surprised to see we had a really good summer in terms of fires in the province. It has been at least a decade since I recall smoke free skies like we had. Maybe they can get into some of the higher risk areas and begin to clear and/or control burn this fall.
 
Yeah it was a good yr here for lack of fires....the first in about eight summers. We did have some smoke via some fires over around Yakima, but nothing like in previous yrs. The rainy spring and cool early summer helped us a lot.

If scientists can't figure out how to fool or slow down those beetles, they will change the future of NA forests....maybe forever.

Kevin
 
Hi guys,I have several J'red 361's.The first one I bought back in 1982 & it's still in running order.It was my main limbing saw for many,many yrs.& it was in "mothballs" for a few yrs.,then 2 yrs.ago I had to bring it back out for a job my son took on for one of our neighbors,a big old maple tree.I've acquired a few more of the 361's over the last few yrs.& some of the other saws that were clones like the Frontier Mark I,Partner 330,Frontier F35,& Danarm 1-36.
I was supposed to get two 451's last yr.,but they were "stolen" out of the person's garage who was holding them for me.I now have a chance to get a 451E for $60,but if it needs an ignition module I might be SOL.Does anyone here know of anywhere to get a module at a reasonable cost,or if there might be any aftermarket ones out there?Thanks!
Ed
 
I finally got around to tearing down my 49SP that has a case gasket failure. It burns bar oil. Anyway when I took the oil pump apart a small white plastic part dropped out and I am not sure where it goes. I didn't see it in in the IPL and it doesn't fit the bore in the case. I took a couple of pictures:

20190929_052716-1-jpg.762499


20190929_052733-1-jpg.762500


Does anyone know what size the o-ring is that is on the adjuster screw? It is part # 740 43 03 00?

49sp-oil-pump-jpg.762498


My o-ring has turned to goo and is unmeasureable.

Any help is appreciated.

Bob
 
Husky has a piece like that, that has to do with the oiler....it's in the piece that comes off and has the oiler seal/crankshaft seal.

Robin has the most 49sp's and working knowledge of this saw....I'm sure he'll know.

Kevin
 
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