Husky 357 XP bearings install

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redunshee

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Ready to reassemble my 357 bearings and crank. Is it better to install the bearings in the case or onto the crank as a first step? If putting them on the c rank, how far do I install them? Installing them in the case half s you can only go so far. Just wondering which procedure would make putting the case halves together easier.
 
Tree monkey (Scott Kunz) has a good video on YouTube of him assembling a Husky case. He has the bearings in a crockpot filled with heated oil, and they literally dropped right onto the crank first. Then he heated the case bearing pocket and dropped the crank and bearing assembly right in.

If there is a stop on each side of the case for the bearing, I don't see why you couldn't drop them in the case first. On many Stihls, one needs to install the oil pump as a bearing stop for the PTO side bearing.
 
Tree monkey (Scott Kunz) has a good video on YouTube of him assembling a Husky case. He has the bearings in a crockpot filled with heated oil, and they literally dropped right onto the crank first. Then he heated the case bearing pocket and dropped the crank and bearing assembly right in.

If there is a stop on each side of the case for the bearing, I don't see why you couldn't drop them in the case first. On many Stihls, one needs to install the oil pump as a bearing stop for the PTO side bearing.
Yep. That vid shows how to do it right if the oiler isn't used as a stop. I use the technique for clamshells. Cut up a tin can, fill w clean oil, heat... easy. I use a toaster oven and heat gun... haven't stolen the crock pot (yet).
 
What does the service manual say?
I have a hard time believing there's anyone more knowledgeable about this, than the people who designed the saw.
 
Ehh, maybe. But still plenty of ways to do it right.
Stihl manuals indicate to put bearings in the case first. Then, they want you to use their tool to pull the crank through the bearings and then snug the case bolts. Reason why? Proper depth of pto bearings, reduced load (no hammer? Sad) straight run for the crank, etc. probably more--/
As for your point, the people that designed the saw probably haven't disassembled and built tons of them like a few members have.
 
Yea, a few people have done tons of them but the OP hasn't, and neither had I when I did my 288 so I bought all the factory tools.
Some of the methods on U Tube, make me cringe.
There was no uneven or excessive heating of the cases, the bearings and seals are exactly where they're supposed to be and I did no hammering on the crankshaft. My crank turns as freely as it possibly could, and I think my saw is put together as well as it was originally from the factory.
Just my opinion and we all know what they say about those.
 
Yea, a few people have done tons of them but the OP hasn't, and neither had I when I did my 288 so I bought all the factory tools.
Some of the methods on U Tube, make me cringe.
There was no uneven or excessive heating of the cases, the bearings and seals are exactly where they're supposed to be and I did no hammering on the crankshaft. My crank turns as freely as it possibly could, and I think my saw is put together as well as it was originally from the factory.
Just my opinion and we all know what they say about those.
Nice.
Good to hear that your rebuild went well. What was the price on the husky tool kit?
 
Nice.
Good to hear that your rebuild went well. What was the price on the husky tool kit?
Best I remember, the bearing tool was around $45, it also seats the seals to the proper depth, the case splitter was about $80 plus I bought the flywheel tool set. Don't remember, but it may have been 40 something. No where I know of keeps these in stock and if you order any of this, prepare for a two to three week wait. I figured most any time I want to sell these it wouldn't be too hard, because I have them in hand ready to ship, and in the meantime, I have a good feeling about the way my saw is put together.
 
Here's a 372 going together with case tools. These tools use pressure on the inner races only to pull the crank through. The least risk to the bearings imho....all at room temp.

You can put the bearings in hot or cold...up to you. If the bearing is aligned right. ..I don't see the issue with cold.

Lots of other info on my channel

 
Make sure you put oil on the crankshaft bearing surface and in the Id of the bearing. Before pulling them together.
 
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