Yeah, that’s what I’m talking about! You can see by the grip of your left hand you don’t need to lean on a sharp saw with power. When they do the work you are just along for the ride.
Homelite Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
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Yeah, that’s what I’m talking about! You can see by the grip of your left hand you don’t need to lean on a sharp saw with power. When they do the work you are just along for the ride.
ML12
ArboristSite Guru
My new to me SXL cuts awesome but the auto oiler doesn’t appear to be working. What’s the SOP for figuring out if it’s shot or just plugged?
I've never come across one that's shot.
The first thing I would check is the oil line which you will find (if it's still) there under the big slot head screw just behind the oil filler cap. Numbers 5 - 8 on the diagram.
If the rubber oil line is broken or has a crack or hole in it, the replacement line should be 2-1/4" long.
If that's all there and clean, Check the oil discharge port at the bar pad with the saw running (watch the clutch doesn't fly off) to see if there is any oil pulsing at the port which means you have an air leak in the system.
The first thing I would check is the oil line which you will find (if it's still) there under the big slot head screw just behind the oil filler cap. Numbers 5 - 8 on the diagram.
If the rubber oil line is broken or has a crack or hole in it, the replacement line should be 2-1/4" long.
If that's all there and clean, Check the oil discharge port at the bar pad with the saw running (watch the clutch doesn't fly off) to see if there is any oil pulsing at the port which means you have an air leak in the system.
Thanks, I’ll check it out!
Is there an actual part number somewhere for the sintered brass plug that secures the duckbill in the red XL fuel caps? I know the duckbill number but have yet to run across a number for the plug (if they're even available). Any creative alternatives to the OEM plug? I was sorta thinking a small piece of roll pin would work given a close enough diameter match to not crack the cap.
Yes, it’s shown in most IPL’s Homelite part#69454. The only problem using a roll pin, is sawdust can then get to duckbill and one little piece with hold the lips open and it will leak.
Thanks for the input. Debris obstruction or ingestion would indeed be a possible concern with the roll pin idea. Guess I'll try to rustle up a couple 69454's for a handful of otherwise perfectly usable caps.
I you can't, you might be able to find a piece of Tygon that will work. If you're concerned about crap getting in there, cut a plug of filter foam with a leather punch and insert that in the fuel line.
Was thinking maybe a small wad of fine grade steel wool as a debris filter, but I like your foam idea too. At the prices I've just seen for the 69454 plus the duckbill you can buy a whole freekin' cap..., or in some cases, a whole damned saw! Sheesh.
But on to another issue I'm having with the same XL98 that needs the cap vent repair...
This thing bites back real hard..., as in almost impossible to pull over. Seems like a serious timing advance issue since it acts more like a fairly stout Super XL925 I also have here when I pull it over with the ignition switch off. So in the absence of a service manual and not having pulled the flywheel yet, is there a rule of thumb timing adjustment method for these engines?
This thing bites back real hard..., as in almost impossible to pull over. Seems like a serious timing advance issue since it acts more like a fairly stout Super XL925 I also have here when I pull it over with the ignition switch off. So in the absence of a service manual and not having pulled the flywheel yet, is there a rule of thumb timing adjustment method for these engines?
So your saying it’s still biting back with switch off? If so remove wire from spark plug, still bite back?
Need to determine type of ignition, one piece or 3 piece before any adjustments.
Switch off, no bite. Hence my leaning toward ignition timing as a contributing factor. But after cleaning all the funk out of the way I found an electronic ignition. Time to pull the flywheel for a look-see at the key alignment I guess. Looks like someone may have already had it off (or tried) by the two broken fins.
One piece ignition. The only adjustment is the air gap. Check flywheel key.
I can see that the key is in the flywheel slot. Flywheel isn't budging to see if the key may have sheared, though. Not sure I want the fight of trying to get it off just to check, either.
Wonder if it's the correct flywheel?
Wonder if it's the correct flywheel?
Does that have a chip in it? I have a couple of chipped Homelites. Two are theirs and another is a Nova. All three bite back hard.
If you still have that 925 you posted up with the other two Homelites, put the 925 and the 98 at TDC and see if the flywheel magnet position is the same or close.
The key would likely be in there if it's sheared. They aren't tough flywheels to pull. A light impact gun on the puller often does the trick
If you still have that 925 you posted up with the other two Homelites, put the 925 and the 98 at TDC and see if the flywheel magnet position is the same or close.
The key would likely be in there if it's sheared. They aren't tough flywheels to pull. A light impact gun on the puller often does the trick
No chip. Just a coil, kill wire/switch, and a plug wire/plug.
Good suggestion on comparing the magnet positions of the two flywheels. I do still have the XL925 here and it's also the one piece ignition like the XL98.
I tried smacking the crank (with the nut threaded on it flush) while suspending the saw by the flywheel with no luck. I gather the puller method involves pulling the pawl studs and using those threads with a conventional puller?
Good suggestion on comparing the magnet positions of the two flywheels. I do still have the XL925 here and it's also the one piece ignition like the XL98.
I tried smacking the crank (with the nut threaded on it flush) while suspending the saw by the flywheel with no luck. I gather the puller method involves pulling the pawl studs and using those threads with a conventional puller?
I suppose if the key did shear it'd put up a tougher fight, too.
Poge,
If you end up needing to, I've re-timed using a wheel, gun and drill when swapping out the blue Prestolites on the 76/130 series. That is, when using coils other than the husky ones. 28 degrees seemed to be the upper limit. Beyond that and things got aggressive. On a further note, I tested when mounting up the 2xx series husky coils and found at around 28 degrees the flywheel and crank keyway are virtually aligned. Makes using that coil essentially plug and play after a little mounting modification.
If you end up needing to, I've re-timed using a wheel, gun and drill when swapping out the blue Prestolites on the 76/130 series. That is, when using coils other than the husky ones. 28 degrees seemed to be the upper limit. Beyond that and things got aggressive. On a further note, I tested when mounting up the 2xx series husky coils and found at around 28 degrees the flywheel and crank keyway are virtually aligned. Makes using that coil essentially plug and play after a little mounting modification.
Is that only on the 76/130 saws or on SXL as well?
