not sharpened correctly, outta the box?

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Patrick62

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I hate to pick on Stihl, but I going to..

It seems to be that the new loops of chain, and stuff I pull off a roll these days isn't exactly sharp they way I remember it used to be, like 5 or 10 or... 20 years ago. Oh, it will cut. And probably better than most ordinary guys can file a chain, but darn it, the angle isn't right, and the crescent isn't right. It almost looks like the machine that made the stuff is "cutting corners" if that is even possible.

The last few loops of Oregon I have seen were if anything better! The Stihl chain will have better steel in them, and a slightly thicker chrome edge. The oregon stuff seems to always need to have the rakers dropped to .025 and then it cuts correctly with lots of chain stretch...

Ok, I will quit bellyaching now.
 
I just watched an episode of Buckin' Billy Ray and he compared Oregon to Stihl new out if the box and said the Oregon seemed better.
Then he filed them himself and still liked the Oregon chain.
Something to think about I guess, I use a Oregon grinder myself don't have enough experience to hand file.

Homelite collector in training [emoji879]
 
This one?
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Homelite collector in training [emoji879]
 
I see that no orginal chain, no matter is sharpened to my standards. I sharpen a new chain before it goes cutting. I can’t cut with a new chain without opening up the gullet.

 
Like it matters? It takes a couple of minutes to put an edge back on a lightly used chain. Maybe 2 to get it the way you want it, if you aren't liking it from the factory.

I was filing to much, keeping an optimal edge on my cutters, then I thought, it is cutting just fine, and why so picky? The sharper it is, the faster it dulls. And if I keep it super sharp, I am regularly removing metal, hence shortening the life of the chain.
 
Next I use the file n guide system so the very top edge gets filed straight and sharp.

We’re removing excess metal from the lower part of the tooth. So the chip can curl and exhaust much faster from the cut.

Once the chain is sharpened my way you won’t accept it done anyway else. I learned this around thirty five years ago speed cutting at the fairs. Between fairs I’d change the saws back to cut firewood in the forest. I had cutting permits on a schedule to meet. Onetime I got lazy and left the 2100/266 with there race chains. I tore standing timber up.

I had people who wanted me to sharpen there saw chain.
 
I have been having the same complaint with my Carlton chains, so poor out of the box in the last year or two that I now have to sharpen my chains before I make any cuts, very poor quality control. It's very aggravating cause I like my chains razor sharp like they used to come. The worst is I tried out a new brand of chain "Laser", just to find they are selling the same not so sharp Carlton branded chains in a laser packaging. 3/8 A2LM .058 full chisel.
 
Since I have to resharpen new chain anyways I figure we would try huztl chain. The jury is still out yet. There files do nothing, a waste of money. Good for throwing in cement, rebar.
 
+1
I just bought a MS362c a few weeks ago, and noticed that the chain it came with was all jacked up. Had severe triangular grinder grooves. A few minutes of touch up was all it needed.
But still... WtHeck!?!
 
Next I use the file n guide system so the very top edge gets filed straight and sharp.

We’re removing excess metal from the lower part of the tooth. So the chip can curl and exhaust much faster from the cut.

Once the chain is sharpened my way you won’t accept it done anyway else. I learned this around thirty five years ago speed cutting at the fairs. Between fairs I’d change the saws back to cut firewood in the forest. I had cutting permits on a schedule to meet. Onetime I got lazy and left the 2100/266 with there race chains. I tore standing timber up.

I had people who wanted me to sharpen there saw chain.
pics!!!
 

I have a question on a saw (same one I bought parts from you for, actually) and I'm waiting until I get enough time to take good pictures, because I know that this response (very understandably) will be one of the first few posts, most likely from you! :)
 
Years back, there was a guy on Ebay, that had Stihl RS loops in 0.325 and 3/8, $15 delivered. I spent ~$300 and still have a bunch left (16" 0.325, 20" 3/8, 25" 3/8).

Have not bought new stihl chains in a while, except. A 3/8 picco RM for top handles, and 3/8 picco PMX for milling. Both of those were fine out of the box.

I suspect Stihl is cutting corners rather than chains correctly. I do like Stihl chain as IMHO, it stays sharp longer and does not stretch as much. I use mine until a tooth or two break off because the cutters are filed to nil, then they go into the "stumper/root" cutter storage bin.

I also liked Carlton chain, pre-Blount days.
 
The saw chain manufacturers only go so deep when there automatic sharpeners grind the teeth.
 
As soon as I’m done building my 2100 with 404” chain which is better for pics I’ll post it.

I was teaching my oldest son how to sharpen saw chain on my 575xp He had the hands on while I explained what I do. Two weeks later the misses and him were cleaning up the yard with fallen branches. He took out the 575 to cut stuff up. He said wow that saw cuts, I said you sharpened it. He was surprised how a little filing can make a big difference in cutting.
 
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