Tree identification

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BJD85

ArboristSite Operative
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Can any one help me identify this tree? New to milling and just want to cut em all up! But definetly want it to be worth wile. I'm a rookie so I havent got a clue on tree species. Tried the tree identifier app and its way off. Thanks in advance
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I go to the local library and take out what books they have. Since we can see acorns look in that section. clearly those are not leaves shaped like the more common oak varieties. I believe white oaks have acorns every year and red ones every other year. I have read for lumber purposes an oak species falls into one class or the other. Since it is stated in post 1 want it to be worth while, that tree is curved and has more limbs on one side than the other. Pretty sure that is not a good candidate for getting straight boards out of especially for a beginner.
 
I was worried about that. But wouldent a sticker stack with tight ratchet straps keep it straight? I guess at the least I'll get some good pratice. I just ruined some pi,e becausebof stacked it in my garage. It got moldy real quick. (Lesson learned) I scrubbed the heck out of it with borax but the stain still remains. And I have some beautifull red oak in my garage that is still ok. Not shire what kind of oak and definetly not the same as the tree in the pic. I'll be moving it outside tomarrow to slow the dry process and insure it as well does not get mold.
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The guys on here seem mostly chainsaw milling and stacking with the bark on. I do band saw milling and stack with all of the bark trimmed off. I sticker my stacks but do not generally band or chain or weight the stacks. When I un stack the pile often the boards have quite a crown, in the same plane as the stickers. I generally attribute this to the stresses in the tree as one side is in more compression and the other could be basically in tension. It moves on milling but like I say a year later un stacking often it seems quite a bit of wasted effort.

As for the mold, Maple will really mold in just a few days in the warmer months if not sticker stacked. The oak will develop micro cracks if not got out of the sun pretty soon but mold does not seem to be an issue for me. Have got some mold on pine but not sure exactly why, I know doug fir and hem fir lumber can come to a building site totally wet.
 
It's always better to cut the lumber down in late fall/winter, when dormant and sap is out of wood. Then get it milled ASAP. Low humidity in winter, but it will also dry slowly.

And then it's cold. Can always work harder or put on more clothes. Milling in warm weather is no fun.

Old boss at a mill said "If you're cold, You are not working hard enough!"
 
The guys on here seem mostly chainsaw milling and stacking with the bark on. I do band saw milling and stack with all of the bark trimmed off. I sticker my stacks but do not generally band or chain or weight the stacks. When I un stack the pile often the boards have quite a crown, in the same plane as the stickers. I generally attribute this to the stresses in the tree as one side is in more compression and the other could be basically in tension. It moves on milling but like I say a year later un stacking often it seems quite a bit of wasted effort.

As for the mold, Maple will really mold in just a few days in the warmer months if not sticker stacked. The oak will develop micro cracks if not got out of the sun pretty soon but mold does not seem to be an issue for me. Have got some mold on pine but not sure exactly why, I know doug fir and hem fir lumber can come to a building site totally wet.
My pine got the mold but not the oak. Would you recomend keeping the oak in garage? Of I put it outside in going to put a tent over it. A workers tent or beach tent the kind with no sides just a top. I have no plywood or anything like that
 
I go to the local library and take out what books they have. Since we can see acorns look in that section. clearly those are not leaves shaped like the more common oak varieties. I believe white oaks have acorns every year and red ones every other year. I have read for lumber purposes an oak species falls into one class or the other. Since it is stated in post 1 want it to be worth while, that tree is curved and has more limbs on one side than the other. Pretty sure that is not a good candidate for getting straight boards out of especially for a beginner.
Library?
Just Google your local Oak species and match 'er up.
 
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