ms250 carb question

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It's definitely worth buying an oem carburetor because you know for certain that it's right. Some aftermarket carbs are good and some are not. it's a Gamble. When I rebuilt my 025, I put an aftermarket carburetor on it, and it had starting issues. Ran good and idled good, but on a hot start, it took five pulls on half choke. I'm not going to use that carb on my work. My 025 is still down until I get another chance to work on it

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The aftermarket carb was 12 bucks versus 48 for the OEM. I think I'm just going to try a carb kit on the original carb. It looks pretty crusty though. This rebuild was a woods find.

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1123 120 0603 CARBURETOR (MS250) $22.67
That's a good price it's been awhile since I checked. Now is a good time to buy one. It's always a good thing to find a flaw in a clone. Every failure is a success if you learn from it.

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So, I forgot to post again. I pressure and vac tested the fuel line. Seems to be ok. Held both pressure and vac well. It also was letting fuel through alright, as when I disconnected the line, I forgot to vent the pressure from the tank, and the fuel was running like crazy out of the hose.

I'm wondering if the crank seals are bad now. When I have time, I'll get a set of plates made up and pressure and vac test the crankcase.
 
So, I forgot to post again. I pressure and vac tested the fuel line. Seems to be ok. Held both pressure and vac well. It also was letting fuel through alright, as when I disconnected the line, I forgot to vent the pressure from the tank, and the fuel was running like crazy out of the hose.

I'm wondering if the crank seals are bad now. When I have time, I'll get a set of plates made up and pressure and vac test the crankcase.
Before you go into all that, a quick and dirty way is to get the saw running and turn it on it’s side both directions. If there’s an observable change in idle speed....or it dies you likely have a seal leak or possibly head gasket leak. If it doesn’t, the leak may be on the boot since you said your fuel and vac lines are okay.
 
So, I forgot to post again. I pressure and vac tested the fuel line. Seems to be ok. Held both pressure and vac well. It also was letting fuel through alright, as when I disconnected the line, I forgot to vent the pressure from the tank, and the fuel was running like crazy out of the hose.

I'm wondering if the crank seals are bad now. When I have time, I'll get a set of plates made up and pressure and vac test the crankcase.

These saws are also known to leak at the clam shell pan interface. Just about all of the 6-12 Stihl clam shells (ms170/180, Ms250) that I have worked on leaked at the clam shell interface. Granted that all of these were in the 10-20 year old range.

The easiest way to test is to remove the flywheel and clutch to expose the crank seals, seal everything up and pressurize through a spark plug adapter. Note that the crankcase CANNOT be removed from the main housing without likely breaking the pan seal. The 4 bolts that hold the crankcase in the housing also hold the crankcase together. If you find a leak but don't see it from the seals stick the whole thing in a bucket of water and follow the bubbles.

Also note that there are two different types of seals. One type is intended for complete disassembly and the other is for replacement without breaking the pan seal or removing the engine from the housing. Be sure to get the correct ones.
 
These saws are also known to leak at the clam shell pan interface. Just about all of the 6-12 Stihl clam shells (ms170/180, Ms250) that I have worked on leaked at the clam shell interface. Granted that all of these were in the 10-20 year old range.

The easiest way to test is to remove the flywheel and clutch to expose the crank seals, seal everything up and pressurize through a spark plug adapter. Note that the crankcase CANNOT be removed from the main housing without likely breaking the pan seal. The 4 bolts that hold the crankcase in the housing also hold the crankcase together. If you find a leak but don't see it from the seals stick the whole thing in a bucket of water and follow the bubbles.

Also note that there are two different types of seals. One type is intended for complete disassembly and the other is for replacement without breaking the pan seal or removing the engine from the housing. Be sure to get the correct ones.
Thanks for the advise. I'm getting ready for harvest, so it will be an as I have time type of project along with the MS201T-C.
 
Is it worth buying a real walbro for this saw, or is a clone good enough? I know there are some saws that I've read to not bother with the clones. Is there a good place to buy a clone?

Short story on the saw. I had a friend get it. She said the saw was hard starting, but it idled well and ran well for 10 minutes that were counted by a timer.

I got it yesterday. The saw wouldn't start no way, no how. Today, I fooled around with it by taking the carb out, and cleaning the outside, and popping off the limiter cap. Retuned the saw a bit. Saw will now start, but will not idle. If one lets off the throttle, the saw just dies. Adjusting the low speed jet does nothing. Saw runs on fast idle, and full throttle, but smokes like crazy.

Took the muffler off. Piston is not scored that I could see. Can see the machining marks the whole way across. Compression is 135 psi. Fuel is slobbering out the muffler. Spark arrestor isn't dirty that I could see. Just a very small bit of carbon build up in one area. If it hasn't ever been cleaned, the saw has hardly been used in it's life. The spark arrestor actually looks fairly new. It doesn't have a burned look to it like it's been torched off.

Just get a carb kit... rebuild it for 10-15$. Where in Canada are you located? I’m in ON. I’ll find out what an OEM carb is here this week when I pickup some parts.... p.s. I don’t get charged shipping. That makes no sense when they group ship items. If try and find another dealer partner
 
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