Stihl Yellow chains keep failing

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I had this happen with a poulan pro 5020, did the exact same thing but in this case it wouldn’t even last two tanks.
In the end it was the spur as it was so out of spec it was peening the link causing the tie strap to bind. When the chain was really bad it would be very hard to turn and when the saw was running it was literally skipping violently.

If oil was the OP’s issue it would have been smoking after one or two cuts so I’m gonna confidently day spur
 
it looks like tips on mine are pretty far warn down. is there any way to correct for this, or is there something causing it? i dont know how many hours are on them, but there not THAT old.
 
ive been running the yellow chains for 2 or 3 years now, and ive got at least 4 of them that have failed, just had another one go today.

just wondering if im missing some maintenance or if im doing something wrong?

ive got both a husqy 455 rancher and 357xp running 20" Forester bar.

the problem is, the links keep binding up on these blades and either the 455 will just throw the blade, or the XP will either get super loose and start slipping, or get super tight and just stop.

ive had tons of blades over the years and never had the links keep binding up like this. at this point id ditch the yellow blades in an instant, but i havnt found anything that comes close to the cutting performance.
Welcome to the forum "Another".
I'll send you a PM and we can get you all fixed up :cheers:.
I'm just east of you in Lowell.
But my money is on the sprocket.
Yep. Busted right in half :eek:.
While you are at it... Put up photos of the bar showing the part number, pitch and gauge. Should be stamped on the bar on one side near the powerhead end. Also the part number of the Stihl chains that are problematic.

Stihl uses .050" .063" gauge while a lot of Husky's use .058" gauge. Trying to stuff a .063 " chain into a .058" bar isn't going to work very well...
Yes, pictures :thisthreadisworthlesswithoutpictures:.
Pretty sure stihl sells .058, plenty of loggers run 063 in their loose 058 bars ;).
If you’re in Grand Rapids there are a few members out that way that can maybe see whats going on. @chipper1
I'm here, sorry I'm late :p.
If I am seeing this correctly....

View attachment 759977
You are :eek:
I know Brett sure helped my sharpening skills my day over there. He's a great guy!
Thanks buddy :cheers:.
 
it looks like tips on mine are pretty far warn down. is there any way to correct for this, or is there something causing it? i dont know how many hours are on them, but there not THAT old.
What is causing this is a totally worn out sprocket on the 357 which is likely caused by a REALLY dull/incorrectly sharpened chain.

On the 455 the sprocket looks usable but the couple of links shown in one of the photos shows some SERIOUS sharpening issues.

Trying to force a cut with a dull chain will severely hammer on the sprocket and drive links on the chain causing the damage that you have experienced.

BTW, if your shop couldn't see this you need to find a new shop!
 
BTW, if your shop couldn't see this you need to find a new shop!

its funny you should mention that, as i had the same thoughts. but this is also the guy that all the forestry/county guys have their work done at. when you go in there, theres 150+ saws lined up and waiting in the pickup area, and just as many in the waiting area.

i have been curious about the sharpening bit as well. ive had the harbor freight sharpener for 10+ years now, theres basically no adjustments on it. its served me well enough for all the other blades ive run through it, but these stihls are starting to show problems.
 
Ive had the harbor freight sharpener for 10+ years now, theres basically no adjustments on it. its served me well enough for all the other blades ive run through it, but these stihls are starting to show problems.

Sorry, it is NOT the fault of the chains. It is the lack of correct timely sharpening. It would appear from the chain photos that you are either cutting dirty wood and/or have an issue keeping the chain out of the dirt. There are LOTS of threads on this forum about proper sharpening methods and likely the HF grinder.

When you replace these sprockets, bars, and chains you might consider switching to RM instead of RS chain which stays sharper longer in dirty conditions. Standard RM is "green" low kickback but you can order the "yellow" as RMC (I believe). You won't notice the cutting difference between the two as long as they are properly sharpened.
 

Attachments

  • Oregon - Saw Chain Maintenace Manual.pdf
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i can believe the sharpening part. all i cut is stuff thats come down in a storm. ill sharpen them and then run them until it starts cutting slow or pulling to the side. ill take a look into the RMC blades though. ive had the greens and hate them. ive ran the yellows and the greens through my sharpener, and the greens cut half the speed as the yellows. im just standing there making sawdust with them, where the yellows are throwing out huge chunks.
 
Welcome to the forum "Another".
I'll send you a PM and we can get you all fixed up :cheers:.
I'm just east of you in Lowell.

Yep. Busted right in half :eek:.

Yes, pictures :thisthreadisworthlesswithoutpictures:.
Pretty sure stihl sells .058, plenty of loggers run 063 in their loose 058 bars ;).

I'm here, sorry I'm late :p.

You are :eek:

Thanks buddy :cheers:.
Bout time. :buttkick:Hope you can help out. Looks like sprocket trouble ruined some decent chain.
 
Back to sharpening, looks like the wrong file was used - no gullet. You should be using a 7/32" file on a 3/8 chain. Also, rather than wait until it starts cutting slower, touch the cutters up every 1 - 2 tanks of fuel. Unless you have hit something, it should only take 2 - 4 strokes to get the edge back.
 
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