Brand new 201

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jzack605

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I have a brand new ms201, first top handle saw. It’s only been used for some clearing of underbrush and yesterday on a large limb removal lost due to phytophothora. I noticed the first pull sometimes it doesn’t want to let you pull it. Not sure if it just needs to be broken in or if it’s a potential problem. It’s always first pull, but not every time. Following pull she starts right up.
 
The engine turns over no problem, engine was hot. First pull the starter cord would not want to pull. Second, no issue and she'd start right up.

Not sure how else to explain it.
 
Sounds like your saw just has lots of compression but “hard to pull” could be a lot of things. Take the pull start off and see if there is anything inhibiting the recoil mechanism or flywheel. Turn the flywheel counterclockwise with your hand. It should get harder and then pop over. If anything feels gritty or chunky, something is probably wrong. If you just have to use some force to get through the pop, you probably just have a nice tight saw.
 
Thanks. I’ll take a closer look later.

It’s my first climbing saw and I found it somewhat surprising that a new one would fight you on start up considering it’s an in tree saw. But seems like I’m just overly concerned about a saw working as it should.
 
I hear ya. Does seem a little odd. Even with the squish at .010” they don’t pull over super hard. There may be a mechanical issue.
 
I'd say vapor lock if it only happens when hot and on first pull. Those little saws have a lot of compression compared to the power of the starter.
 
I have a brand new ms201, first top handle saw. It’s only been used for some clearing of underbrush and yesterday on a large limb removal lost due to phytophothora. I noticed the first pull sometimes it doesn’t want to let you pull it. Not sure if it just needs to be broken in or if it’s a potential problem. It’s always first pull, but not every time. Following pull she starts right up.
My 200T does the same thing. Get in the habit of gently pulling the starter until the piston is at/near TDC, then give it a good tug. Hope that works for you, too.
 
Just googled it, always thought it was when the compression in an engine was so high it wouldn't crank. Like if either was sprayed into a warm diesel and it binds it up and the starter doesn't have the power to turn it over. Supposed to let an engine idle after running it hard to help cool it down, 30 seconds to a minute might also help on the re starts, but I do agree high compression on a tight saw can sometimes get ya
 
I noticed this too. At a couple of hours I have not yet fully broken in my ms201tc though. I figured that since there is no priming bulb, you have to pay the piper on the first pull? For example, it never seems to start on the first pull when cold.

It is an improvement over my old Husqvarna XPT338 which is great but was years old and I did not have time to change the piston. I like how the bar nut does not fall off on my 201 and 500. I do not like the bigger Stihl scrench though.

How is it now jzack605? Still have that first pull issue?

And by the way, has anyone discovered a trick to getting the 201 saw to start with the least amount of total pulls by the end of the day? I use mine on the trail so it gets re-started just about every time I buck a different tree. Any starting tricks noticed, like saw inclination, prior stopping procedure, using fresh gas, etc?


Thanks.
 
All the 201t I have run take several pulls on cold start. I guess some air gets into the line or the strato system requires a few extra rotations to get charge up into the combustion chamber. Most pop on choke in 4-8 pulls.
Once warm most start first or second pull. I usually trigger start (bad habit, not safe) in the tree and if the saw is warm it’s usually growling first pull.
 

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