What's the smallest Chainsaw you can use to cut a 24/26 inch oak?

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Wow

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I've heard this question many times from a Home owner with a small Chainsaw.
In my opinion there are many variables. Going way back, I have used a small Macllough Eager Beaver once and dropped a pretty big ole pine tree. Skill comes into play. How sharp is the chain. Is the bar oiling well, are you in a hurry? The Eager Beaver may have had a 14 inch bar, can't remember. I just gave away an old Poulan 2150. One time I had a 20 inch Oregon bar on that saw. It's 37cc if I recall. Then I remember the Sthil 024, 18 inch bar I think. Not fast but still cut some trees the bar barely reached past the center of the stump. The Sthil 026 came along and with a 20 inch bar dropped some big trees. Not real fast but got it done. The Poulan Pro 380 a 60cc saw pulled a long bar pretty good. Maybe 28inch bar. Details not sure. But the saw that seemed to be most handy was the Sthil 026 and or the small Poulan. After that the Sthil 440 walks through wood so fast there's no comparison. But the smaller saws can cut trees almost double their bar length in fairly skilled hands and better in professional hands but pros use pro saws and Pros don't ask this question. So, as I've said, there is no one size fits all answer if we consider skill. I'd be interested in hearing about the smallest saw anyone has used for the biggest tree they've dropped. Just curious.
 
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Quality of the saw make a huge difference. I know people who run a 24" bar on a 455 rancher who could manage that size tree or like a Stihl 270 or 290. But a large (modern) poulan in the 50cc range... No way. I wouldn't go less than one of my 60cc saws with a 20" bar.

We did a 3' oak with 2 - 60cc saws both sporting 20" bars.
 
I felled a 24" fir with my ms290 18" bar this year. It fell where I planned, but in hind sight I wish I had used my 461. With a long enough bar you know that the hinge within the core of the tree is going to be straight, whereas with a shorter bar, you can only do your best. The better the hinge in a tight spot, the less risky is the fall.
 
Bucking or felling?

You could use a cutie pie saw with a 14” bar and come from both sides, and probably do the European Stump Dance to get it on the ground. I’d much rather have at least a 20 to put in on the ground.

I only own chainsaws (as an individual, leaving company stuff out) in the 70.7-76.5 cc range though, so I guess I’d put a 28 inch bar on my 441 as my smallest saw and go to work.
 
If you're willing to cut both sides, you can cut pretty big stuff with the smaller saws. It just takes a while.

Growing up, we had an 011av with a 16" bar, and used it for absolutely everything! It got through big, mature oaks... eventually.

Currently, my biggest saw is a 362cm, and it will have that distinction until the 500i is released stateside.
 
Everyone and their dog runs 16 inch bars in these parts on saws ranging from 40-70cc. 24 inch trees aren't a problem.
The bigger saws get the job done faster but the small saws will if your patience.

I used to have a cheap poulan with a 16 inch bar, it didn't oil enough to cut large wood, power wise it would get it done altho a little slowly but it would burn up bars/chains if you used the whole length of the bar.

My Chinese 54 and 62cc saws will cut 24 inch trees all day long with 15 and 18 inch bars on em.
 
Everyone and their dog runs 16 inch bars in these parts on saws ranging from 40-70cc. 24 inch trees aren't a problem.
The bigger saws get the job done faster but the small saws will if your patience.

I used to have a cheap poulan with a 16 inch bar, it didn't oil enough to cut large wood, power wise it would get it done altho a little slowly but it would burn up bars/chains if you used the whole length of the bar.

My Chinese 54 and 62cc saws will cut 24 inch trees all day long with 15 and 18 inch bars on em.

Okay, small bars oil better when you do this as in the photo. That Tool is a home made Bar Groove cleaner and Screwdriver.
 

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When I was a teenager, my best friend and I cut down a 24” blackjack with a Eastwing hatchet. Lots of aggression was taken out on the poor tree! It was before cameras were everywhere so the only proof it happened is me and him laughing about it to this day when someone has a camp hatchet at deer camp.
 
To answer your question - young and clueless 40 years ago l felled a 2’ oak with a 38cc McCulloch with a 16” bar .25” pitch chain. Barber chaired 10’ up. Fortunately I didn’t get hurt. Safe falling requires equipment wise a fast saw and a sharp chain. Small saws aren’t meant for falling large diameter trees.

Ron
 
I was told you fell a tree with a bar that is 1/3 the width of the tree through the use of the bore cutting method. Bucking you’ll need at least 1/2 the length.

Power head size I like to use 70cc for 24” of bar.
 
I was told you fell a tree with a bar that is 1/3 the width of the tree through the use of the bore cutting method. Bucking you’ll need at least 1/2 the length.

Power head size I like to use 70cc for 24” of bar.

Not exactly true you can cut windows in to cut larger timber with a super long bar where it can be done.


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I've cut more small trees with a bar two or three times what was required :p

otoh
This was 38"dbh with a 45cc saw. (posted before)
I don't think it's that unusual in the PNW. We have big trees of soft(ish) wood.
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Not exactly true you can cut windows in to cut larger timber with a super long bar where it can be done.


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I been on the road and you beat me too it. Windows as in big enough for the powerhead to be inserted and pivoted. Otherwise there will be an out of reach post centered behind the hinge. Except for a block face tall enough to fit the powerhead or a window, an 18" bar can't reach far enough to prevent a post on a 54" tree. Without a window or height to insert the powerhead, the steeper the face the thicker the uncut post. Same thing for any other size comparison as the ratio stays the same.

Ron
 
I would much rather use a powerhead over powerd for the short bar vs the other way around. I though that is how the fellers from over the pond do it. Cutting with 70 or 80cc on a 20” bar.
 
I would much rather use a powerhead over powerd for the short bar vs the other way around. I though that is how the fellers from over the pond do it. Cutting with 70 or 80cc on a 20” bar.

Different strokes for different folks. Also different cutting conditions. Just a firewood hack, but my go to combination for eastern hardwood are 60cc 20", 82cc 25" and 123cc 33". My length choice has a lot to do with balance; however if I am falling something I think has the potential to blow up on me I go for a bar at least as long as the cut diameter otherwise the longest bar I have available. I am looking forward to the 500i and assuming I buy I will run it with the best balanced bar but no shorter than 25". If I am cutting small stuff on the ground at my feet a 28" or longer bar is nice to back bar cut. I don't do much of that type cutting anymore and my bars of choice are now shorter.

Ron
 
I would much rather use a powerhead over powerd for the short bar vs the other way around. I though that is how the fellers from over the pond do it. Cutting with 70 or 80cc on a 20” bar.

Eastern Canada is the same way. Big trees are rare so are bars more than 20 inches long.
I have a 18 inch bar on one of my saws and the locals think its huge lol. I know a bunch of guys with 16 inch bars on 365's, they cut up our 10-20 inch fire wood in a hurry.
 

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