Best inexpensive 80 to 100cc saw? Can be old. Can be modded.

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+1 on the, getting the most out of your 038 when it is not to worn out.
Those 5 HP a sharp chain and a good sprocketed bar, on a bit modded 038 are enough to make you the weakest link when making chips.

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I now see you also started a topic to fix a 038. Then I better understand you looking for an alternative.

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Did you take into account the premium you pay for parts ( which you are bound to need in that price range) an gas?
Old big saws are gasguzlers.
For that type of work on the cheap, I would search for 60 or 70 cc class newer type. Like a Dolkita 6100 7900/7300/6400 or
Husky 555, 365 those just not quite XP saws most people forget.
In the end, kW/HP in the cut makes the chips, not the cc's.

The Stihl range I'm not that familiar with. Only found they tend to not be for the price-conscious buyer, no matter the range or power output or era.

I would leave the clones alone unless you want to studdy which gem still need which OEM parts to be relatively dependable.
I don't want to gamble with a device that has sharp pointy bits going 50km/h.



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I'm found of my stihls. Only have bought one new, my 066 that came as a deal with my sawmill.

All the others have been free or VERY cheap. Some needed few parts/cleaning to run perfect, others needed rebuilds but well worth the $$$/effort. I have a pile of free ones I use for parts.

I bought a 064 that just needs a cleanup and a coil, it came with complete 028S (excellent P/C and bottom end) and 024S parts saws. I have $200 into the lot.

The 064 is all OEM w/HD airfilter. P/C looks nearly new, piston still has machine marks on the ex side. Some cleaning and a coil and I'll have a nice 064. Will probably inve$t some in new rubber and seals.

Those are the kind of deals to look for.
 
I work for the state park service and teach chainsaw certification classes for the state, I've used and worked with most of the saws people have listed in there profiles , I often hand employees my 1970s saw and watch the look of utter surprise when they cut with it , every one who suggests a new saw probably owns one and I get it , but I use both new and old and the cost of running and old saw is cheaper THE END.
 
I work for the state park service and teach chainsaw certification classes for the state, I've used and worked with most of the saws people have listed in there profiles , I often hand employees my 1970s saw and watch the look of utter surprise when they cut with it , every one who suggests a new saw probably owns one and I get it , but I use both new and old and the cost of running and old saw is cheaper THE END.

Yep I use old and new as well and it's tough to beat cheap cost if vintage. And the big smile I get running vintage iron.
 
I'm found of my stihls. Only have bought one new, my 066 that came as a deal with my sawmill.

All the others have been free or VERY cheap. Some needed few parts/cleaning to run perfect, others needed rebuilds but well worth the $$$/effort. I have a pile of free ones I use for parts.

I bought a 064 that just needs a cleanup and a coil, it came with complete 028S (excellent P/C and bottom end) and 024S parts saws. I have $200 into the lot.

The 064 is all OEM w/HD airfilter. P/C looks nearly new, piston still has machine marks on the ex side. Some cleaning and a coil and I'll have a nice 064. Will probably inve$t some in new rubber and seals.

Those are the kind of deals to look for.
I agree but be prepared to pay what I did for my Stihl 064 AV four years ago -- $500 delivered and sold as a strong runner. It was and still is in immaculate condition. I would not sell it for less than that today. You might be able to get an MS660 in the same condition, but even these are getting rare. Most have been used hard by loggers or tree removal companies and are in need of much work.
 
It’s a solid saw, same as 281 and a little less than the 288. Usually seen as an old saw and you can usually get into a good running one for $150-$200 without looking too hard.


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I got mine for free. Guy dropped it off for some work. Figured him the price for parts and he said keep it. I had no problem spending 150 on that saw. Its about the strongest runner i got so far. (Next project is a 066.)

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I got mine for free. Guy dropped it off for some work. Figured him the price for parts and he said keep it. I had no problem spending 150 on that saw. Its about the strongest runner i got so far. (Next project is a 066.)

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Thats why I work on my own saws.
 
I got mine for free. Guy dropped it off for some work. Figured him the price for parts and he said keep it. I had no problem spending 150 on that saw. Its about the strongest runner i got so far. (Next project is a 066.)

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I just think if this guy is wanting to spend $200 or less for a saw with more than 80ccs that’s going to be about the only one he can get consistently. Sure he could get lucky on a 046 or something similar but not as often.


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I'm found of my stihls. Only have bought one new, my 066 that came as a deal with my sawmill.

All the others have been free or VERY cheap. Some needed few parts/cleaning to run perfect, others needed rebuilds but well worth the $$$/effort. I have a pile of free ones I use for parts.

I bought a 064 that just needs a cleanup and a coil, it came with complete 028S (excellent P/C and bottom end) and 024S parts saws. I have $200 into the lot.

The 064 is all OEM w/HD airfilter. P/C looks nearly new, piston still has machine marks on the ex side. Some cleaning and a coil and I'll have a nice 064. Will probably inve$t some in new rubber and seals.

Those are the kind of deals to look for.
Sorry, my bad. I tend to forget the used market in the US is still worthwhile.
In Germany and the Netherlands atleast the used market is insane the last decade. I see so much second hand stuff being sold at new price or over.
Stihl products tend to hold their value best.

You've found some nice deals BTW.


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I just found an 80cc saw in my budget. It's an 80s Husqvarna 281xp. Bought it backfiring and would not do anything but idle. I cleaned the carb, checked the fuel line and filter, and still no go.

I pulled the flywheel thinking sheared key. Key was fine, but there were a couple degrees of play. I set it as far advanced as the play would allow, reset the coil gap and while in there also moving the coil as advanced as possible, and tightened it down. I also found some worn wiring from the coil to the secondary coil and the kill switch. I replaced this and heat shrunk it for a little extra protection. I put it back together and it tuned right up and ran great. A few hours well spent! Now I just need a good chain for the 20" husky bar it came with.

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You want BIG, you want CHEAP and you want FAST........ to cut 12-20"wood?
Sounds like a whole heap of hard work and cash draining to make something simple happen that can be covered well by saws you already own- if they are set up correctly.

I chunked a dead 24" hickory recently and decided my 026 and poulan 33cc were underpowered. And I was fortunate to buy the saw mentioned two posts back (81cc Husqvarna) and in budget. Nice saw.
 
I chunked a dead 24" hickory recently and decided my 026 and poulan 33cc were underpowered. And I was fortune to buy the saw mentioned two posts back (81cc Husqvarna) and in budget. Nice saw.

Thought there was an 038 in the mixture somewhere?
Yep, the 281 is a nice saw- when it is set up well.
 
Thought there was an 038 in the mixture somewhere?
Yep, the 281 is a nice saw- when it is set up well.
Just got that one running (new to the mix). It's not quite up and running yet. Need a different bar (oil is acting weird). But it's getting there. I can tell it will be a useful saw.
 
A Husqvarna 266SE, 266xp, 268xp, 181 would serve you well. The 266/268 with a 20” bar will handle most jobs. The 181 is another step up in power. A tad bigger over the 266/268.
 
I have one of the homelite xl 900 series saws, it's a little rough on the outside but has seen little use judging by the compression and lack of wear. I think I paid 80$. Very smooth running saw, lots of power for those occasional big hardwood trees. Only disadvantage of my version is the lack of a decompression valve, it's a b*tch to start.
 

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