038 -- Chain smoking. Bar hot. Oiler seems to work but chain is dry.

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777funk

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I don't know what's happening here. If I run the saw without the bar, I get 1-2 drops a second coming out of the oil port. When I put the bar on it, it runs wet for a bit then eventually dries up and smokes. Where do I look? There's a little rubber bushing that goes around the oiler adjustment screw that is rotted... but it shows no signs of leakage. This is the first time I've had an oil problem so I have no idea where to look and tips would be greatly appreciated!
 
I don't know what's happening here. If I run the saw without the bar, I get 1-2 drops a second coming out of the oil port. When I put the bar on it, it runs wet for a bit then eventually dries up and smokes. Where do I look? There's a little rubber bushing that goes around the oiler adjustment screw that is rotted... but it shows no signs of leakage. This is the first time I've had an oil problem so I have no idea where to look and tips would be greatly appreciated!

Try opening the oil cap and see if it oils again.

There is a vent for the oil tank. If that clogs it will make a vacuum inside oil tank after it pumps a bit. It is located by the bar studs on the case, an aluminum insert.
 
Are the bar oil holes clogged or the bar channel clogged?

You'd not get oil at first if that was the case. OP indicated it oils at first then stops/dries up. Worth checking though.
 

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Sounds to me like you have a pinch point in the bar somewhere. Oils at first, chain gets a little hot anyway which causes a tiny expansion of the links and bar channel sides which causes more heat and so on. All assuming that you are running the correct chain for the bar
 
You'd not get oil at first if that was the case. OP indicated it oils at first then stops/dries up. Worth checking though.

Wasnt sure if he checked with the bar off and it was putting out oil or if he tested with the bar on. Figured it wouldnt hurt to check either way.
 
The chain moves along great by hand. It does get harder to move once it dries up however. There is little to no oil once this happens. Will try the vacuum test and run with a loose cap if the problem acts up again. I do hear a hiss when I open the cap.
 
Wasnt sure if he checked with the bar off and it was putting out oil or if he tested with the bar on. Figured it wouldnt hurt to check either way.


Agreed.

Every few sharpenings of the chain, I clean the bar groove, dress the rails with a draw file, and flip it to even out top/bottom bar wear. Checking the oil hole in the bar is a no brainer.
 
The chain moves along great. It does get harder to move once it dries up however. There is little to no oil once this happens. Will try the vacuum test. I do hear a hiss when I open the cap.

The hiss, might be a vacuum inside the tank relieved, when you spin the cap? You could try running it without too much oil in the tank, and the cap just a bit loose. Not TOO loose, as I've done that with both gas and oil caps, and got a left leg of petroleum on my pants when cap fell out...............forgot to screw caps down when refueling

If it is the tank vent , they can be a PITA to remove. I posted PDFs from the shop manual on this above.

On some saws you can drive them into the oil tank, others have to be pried out.
 
Just cut again for 5 minutes and it was oiling ok this time, but the bar still smoked and even caused the wood to steam.

Maybe it's the oil (used motor oil) or the bar (stihl with a hard nose with no sprocket)?

And I cleaned up the bar when I first noticed the problem. It's clean.
 
I've used it in many of my saws in a pinch and never have had this problem. Not sure about the filter. Need to check it as well as the bar oil tank's air breather. I bought it with unknown issues. The bones seem to be solid.
 
Used engine oil lubricates just as well as tab water IMHO - it will separate from the chain/bar before it has a chance to get to the place where it is needed...
Using canola oil was a trend among pros here a couple of years ago, but saving a buck on oil probably cost the guys 5 bucks for chain/bar/chainsaw expenses.
 
I've used it in many of my saws in a pinch and never have had this problem. Not sure about the filter. Need to check it as well as the bar oil tank's air breather. I bought it with unknown issues. The bones seem to be solid.

Drain oil tank and flush it out with some stale gas/mix. Have a look at the filter and oil feed hose.

If you need to pull those out some VERY long curved hemostats work good at removing/installing.

I'll confess. Many years ago, when cutting cordwood on weekends to pay for college, I used, used motor oil for chain lube. That was in a Homelite Super XL and hardwood cordwood was <$100 delivered. In perspective a quart of 30W was $0.50.
 
You said you had a hard nose bar, you can't run your chain tight otherwise it will smoke your chain. The chain needs about 4 mm sag under the bar.
 
...If it is the tank vent , they can be a PITA to remove. I posted PDFs from the shop manual on this above.

On some saws you can drive them into the oil tank, others have to be pried out.

A hammer and a steel rod - piece of cake, but you have to split the case and do it from the inside...
 
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