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I just popped a new Echo out of the box, looked it over and fired it up. I was not thrilled with the build quality at first, but got over it quickly when I dropped it in the wood. Suspect it may have been a demo, but these were built for 2000hrs of service life, I suspect it would be fine.
Wow, 2000 hrs of service, what model is that.
 
This thread is ridiculous. I see nothing of concern. That cylinder has NEVER had a piston seize in it.

Your saw would have been run at the factory, but not with fuel in its own tank, and for sure no oil in the tank. However, most dealers are required to fuel and start them. I'm sure that was the case with yours.

Why do you continue to argue with people FAR more experienced than yourself? It's obvious that you have a lack of experience. That's fine. Just quit acting like you don't and quit refusing the facts. You only make yourself look foolish.
 
Guess I'm still alive, never heard that number before, so I learned something.
I remember seeing something to do with 200 or 300 hrs on a saw before at a dealer iirc.

Great question. That figure matches the number manufacturers give to estimate engine hours at which their pro saws have been tested and certified to remain operational at EPA compliance levels. Not the service life.


Some dealers start the saw, run it & tune it "in the wood". They probably are far & few between. There is a saw shop in So. Indiana
that does this

All the dealers I've contacted just ship the saw, no start

Thank you! This is one of the things I've been trying to figure out an answer to, beyond anecdotal experiences.
Like do they have a rule? My Stihl dealer likes to set up all saws at purchase with a tach. That being said they will do whatever I like, as they know me. Also they don't ship.

My cheapest chicom saw doesn't have a cylinder that looks that marked up, even my torched gz400 cylinder doesn't have a ring mark near as bad as his saw has.

I'm shocked if a torched cylinder looks worse, pre honing. Though I as well, of all my working saws have yet to find one that looks worse than this. And I like to get after it.
It looks like many a damaged cylinder that was rehoned, in some ways it looks worse.
Non-production, I have some with light scoring. then again, even those are above the hone. Not below it.

Lmao is this post for real???

"Seam rough on the bottom"

*Not trimmed/smoothed. When told it was not a concern from QA standpoint I accepted (initially, though now have serious reason to question their opinion) I had moved on long ago. Problem is the cylinder, paly.

"a bolt that protrudes further than the nut by 1/4”
?? :wtf: literally, every part of that is made up by you. Never said that. Was never written by me and calls in to question your grasp on literacy as that was never something I wrote.

"and a case cover that, well I can’t see anything wrong."

*there was Oil all over it. I've never purchased a new pro saw like this.

They look like that after bench time or field service or from china. Which had me check out for signs it was a demo/used

"So for 1300$ you want a brand new saw that looks cosmetically like a brand new car???

*You *do* realize a car costs more than $1300, right?
That the sheer mass, complexity, sheer number of systems and ... oh why bother with you. You don't even read and make **** up instead

But you're God damn right I do. And to this date, I've always received it. My Echo saws came fully acceptable, and glorious compared to this.

I buy expensive tools. I own Festool and Mirka and Stihl and Husqvarna and Dolmar, Echo, FLir, and FLUKE, etc and even some cheap Chinese tools I own ALL came better than this.



"Lmao
This is a work horse saw, I have had one and used it extensively over a year and it will not let you down. I could give two sh*ts about how well the plastic is molded to the top cover. "

*...on? The top cover is, itself, plastic. And again, not something I critiqued, rather another scarecrow argument from someone who can't argue on the merits but wants to high five the other invalids in a pile on.

"I care everything about the forged crank, the attention to detail to the porting, the high quality bearings and piston. The excellent attention to detail on the carb internally,"

Well now that's sort of the point, isn't it, mate?

"not the casting marks on the diaphragm cover!!!

*Again. Nobody mentioned this. Why don't you read?


"Lol the robust and strong muffler"
*Not something I mentioned, but since you did, the pictures show that saw's are already rusting out internally. My other saws don't have that problem.

and the mounting points to the saw to prevent it from vibrating off (You mention this point, not me, but are you serious?? All of my Husqvarnas have had problems with bolts vibrating out. Thread lock. Constant checking. Etc. Not the end of the world, but bro: do you even cut? Do you own a husky? Are they all shelf queens?

"or bending!!!

You need to sit down and ask yourself why you bought this saw, and do a little more cutting before you start staring and nitpicking details that are of no relevance to a saw."

Husqvarna and stihl put attention to detail into the function and reliability of a high end saw, and the looks are always second place. That’s the way people that use saws want it and I’m glad these company’s don’t have it any other.

"Seam rough on the bottom"

*Not trimmed/smoothed, accepted and moved on long ago. Problem is the cylinder, paly.



"a bolt that protrudes further than the nut by 1/4”

?? :wtf: literally, every part of that is made up by you. Was never written by me and calls in to question your grasp on literacy as that was never something I wrote.


"and a case cover that, well I can’t see anything wrong."

*there was Oil all over it. I've never purchased a new pro saw like this.

The tools that looked like that, were ONLY after bench time or field service or from china. Which had me check out for signs it was a demo/used

"So for 1300$ you want a brand new saw that looks cosmetically like a brand new car???"


*You *do* realize a car costs more than $1300, right?
That the sheer mass, complexity, sheer number of systems and ... oh why bother with you. You don't even read and make **** up instead


But you're God damn right I do. And to this date, I've always received it. My Echo saws came fully acceptable, and glorious compared to this.

I buy expensive tools. I own Festool and Mirka and Stihl and Husqvarna and Dolmar, Echo, FLir, and FLUKE, etc and even some cheap Chinese tools I own ALL came better than this.




"Lmao
This is a work horse saw, I have had one and used it extensively over a year and it will not let you down. I could give two sh*ts about how well the plastic is molded to the top cover. "



*...on? The top cover is, itself, plastic. And again, not something I critiqued, rather another scarecrow argument from someone who can't argue on the merits but wants to high five the other invalids in a pile on.


"I care everything about the forged crank, the attention to detail to the porting, the high quality bearings and piston. The excellent attention to detail on the carb internally,"

:lol:

Well now that's sort of the point, isn't it, mate?


"not the casting marks on the diaphragm cover!!!"


*Again. Nobody mentioned this. Why don't you read?



"Lol the robust and strong muffler"

*Not something I mentioned, but since you did, the pictures show that saw's are already rusting out internally. My other saws don't have that problem. And they've been RUN.



"and the mounting points to the saw to prevent it from vibrating off "(You mention this point, not me, but are you serious?? All of my Husqvarnas have had problems with bolts vibrating out. Thread lock. Constant checking. Etc. Not the end of the world, but bro: do you even cut? Do you own a husky? Are they all shelf queens?



"or bending!!!

You need to sit down and ask yourself why you bought this saw, and do a little more cutting before you start staring and nitpicking details that are of no relevance to a saw."


You have never seen a cylinder after it's been honed. Or you don't even look at pictures, much less, read. I have new and old and well-worn cylinders and have rehoned damaged ones. And this looks like that later, none of the former.

"Husqvarna and stihl put attention to detail into the function and reliability of a high end saw, and the looks are always second place. That’s the way people that use saws want it and I’m glad these company’s don’t have it any other."


I don't think you understand the functional ramifications of a saw that was overheated or what to look for, but it's easy to just write some made up **** and pile on without knowing what you speak of. And again, for those actually reading and following along, I was accepting of the answers, and ready to go, until I saw the cylinder condition.




Despite the fact that most of what you said was in argument with yourself, to scarecrow arguments which you yourself wrote. Not me. This did not stop

@svk @Duce @Husky Man @Andyshine77 from liking it. Which shows that more than reading and intellectual honesty, it's being a troll and misquoting people so you can actually dunk on the argument. Pretty sad that you need to replace my points with your own fiction before dunking on them and high fiving your buddies. :happybanana:
 
You didn't know how to operate a chain break, I kindle explained how, and now you're some type of expert. People that know, can explain something with few words, people that are clueless talk forever and in circles. You don't like the saw, deal with it like an adult, move on. But I take it that's not why you're here.

Take care I will not be wasting my time with this idiotic thread any longer.[emoji111]
 
Whole lotta carbon in that 2 minute ran saw

Exactly. Finally some sense. That was in regards to a 60's McCulloch, which I do not have all parts on hand so I don't feel like tearing it down if I could avoid it, so checking back in as I do for great solutions people come up with.


Some other people (trolls) think it's funny. Well, they must think it awfully funny that the USPTO is still keeping the lights on...

I must admit for a guy who has such a profound knowledge in saws, I not only admire your ability to remove a 3-friggin9-5 clutch cover with bare hands while the brake chain brake is locked on. How did you do it...crowbar, 24" chrome vanadium pry bar? When you mentioned your going to have this dealer loose his licence and all that tough talk stuff, I think you need to have better facts than you have. You realise most people are either laughing when reading this mess, or have their hand in the face-palm position. Seriously though, send it off too Blackcat Performance or Wicked Work Saws and they'll take care of you.

Another troll incapable of reading. Demonstrating their illiteracy and predilection to fantasy with rewriting reality. I actually answered your question before you answered it, explained precisely how I removed it. And I'm not a little guy so it's not that astounding, regardless of method. It *IS* however astounding that you bother to try to give someone crap when you yourself cannot read. As your shitpost totally misses the fact that in that well before your shitpost I explained exactly how. Hint: It's the same way your remove a clutch cover that's jammed on the drum when you're in the field doing production.

Oh wait!! there's typicaly none of the tools you listed there!

Do you not know what you speak of while giving other people ****? Color me surprised.



I will elucidate the lurkers that may become future destroyers of goods if they give in to this ******** narrative fed by the trolls:

Though it is pretty simple why I didn't put all my strength into it without asking myself how sure I was and how I could possibly know there isn't a shipping bolt put in there somewhere to isolate movement etc, I know for a fact that if that lever was between a rock and a hard place, my hands would snap it clean off if I went full bore. I went to 150% of the force I thought it should take, the vertical arm was flexing above that.

An easy example is the retention bolt in washer drums during shipping. Do go ahead and try to force that because "dur dur, I know how it turns so it should turn with enough force"


You're aces.

If a dealer gets a saw back from a customer and “reboxes” it at any time, that is a ****** dealer. Same goes for long term shelf sitters and demonstration examples. New is new. Non of the above are new, and should never have been sold as new at new prices. These are not automobiles with their own little list of special screw the consumer rules.

Will the 395 in the photos work, probably. Does it look good, no. Would I have bought it at list price squatting on a shelf at a dealer, hell no. Probably why it was sold online.

The knock off fuel tanks I own look better than the one in the photo.

Editing this to add only if you are keeping the saw. If you pull the decomp., it’s yours.
Pull the decomp plug, look around.

Was the saw shipped directly from the dealer it was purchased from, or dropped shipped?

You supposedly have 180 days commercial and two years non commercial for Husqvarna to refuse to warranty that saw, so hopefully you purchased it with a credit card. Return it or get to work.

Thank you, Sir. It really is a simple concept, isn't it?

1. Exactly.

2. How would pulling the decomp plug leave me stuck with a used saw? Honestly. it screws in and out. Aside from seal of crush washer, if someone sends you a used saw as new, looking into it shouldn't stick you with it, IMO. Only would a new, as described saw be yours if you looked at it.


3. Directly


"The knock off fuel tanks I own look better than the one in the photo."

:innocent:

To all the trolls that don't read, that's why I mentioned it. See, I read more than I run my mouth and I've read a lot of people saying exactly that and hoe th plastics and their edges; filed and smoothed or not, etc, are the most obvious tells.


So.. (to all the trolls) for 100 points:

WHY DO YOU THINK I SOUGHT OUT, AND BROUGHT FORTH THESE POINTS WHERE THERE WAS EVIDENT POOR ATTENTION TO DETAIL AND AWAITED A QUORUM BEFORE DIGGING INTO THE SAW????

:dumb:

Because it is not inconceivable that people take advantage, that trades, exchanges and purchase agreements are sometimes prone to fraud and misrepresentation.

And I wanted to know what others who had experience with counterfeits knew before I wrenched on it. What others who received saws shipped from the dealer and not set up in-store: What the special considerations, (if any) were to running out of the box of a shipped Husqvarna, with a heavy enough powerhead to engage its own brake during transit, here in 2019.



Wasn’t talking crap about the choice of name, just found it interesting... hope you resolve all your issues. Good evening!


Didn't think you were. I was confirming your observation. And I am impressed that someone caught that. I was responding to the litany of trolls.





Most guys figure a year on a saw in production cutting so 2k is about right maybe 2500.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

agreed. It's the EPA compliance hours he is thinking of. (I *THINK*)

I have some brand new 395 saws on the shelf in the box. I'll be happy to take your money.

Curious. Did you not see how all the trolls determined that I am a moron and with buyers remorse, and difficult?


Yet you want to take my money. Do you Disagree?

Are they made in Sweden?

Where they gassed?

Yeah, I'm interested.
 
You didn't know how to operate a chain break, I kindle explained how, and now you're some type of expert. People that know, can explain something with few words, people that are clueless talk forever and in circles. You don't like the saw, deal with it like an adult, move on. But I take it that's not why you're here.

Take care I will not be wasting my time with this idiotic thread any longer.[emoji111]


You got it all wrong, and you're smarter than that, it's not an accident.

I thanked you kindly for your reassurance to just give it hell (after it survived) and thanked you for seconding the idea in the back of my mind that the saw was in some way a demo or not new, as without that I was eager to hear her run after resolving that I truly wasn't going to destroy the chain brake assembly by torquing on it. (Though for the record, it certainly was close. None of the levers I've used have distorted like that one did before finally disengaging for the first few times. And they never made that sound of a popping spring steel brake band without actually breaking except for those first few times.




No I was here to figure out if I needed to do anything else before just boring down on the handle, and if it was genuine and up to par before I gassed it.

I love my husqvarnas, I don't like damaged and used cylinders. Also, none of the dealers you all have mentioned were the ones who sold this saw as new.

In the event that this is nepotism, they didn't sell it. But anyone who thinks this cylinder is what a cylinder should look like from the factory. Anyone who thinks "...Call the SHADOWS.." that shadows are caused by something imaginary...
I've got a bridge to sell you.

Don't worry. It's 'new'.



In short:

  • I don't have a lot of experience in New 395Xp's out of the box post shipping (Are there immobilization devices/pins/bolts) to protect unit during shipping?
  • I know If I bear down on a frozen bit of plastic or metal I'll likely break it
  • I've used larger saws and, of the ones with brakes, their chain brakes disengaged with far less effort than the first few times actually took
  • I don't have a lot of first hand experience with Brazillian huskies
  • I don't have a lot of first had of experience with counterfeit huskies
  • I do own a good little number of huskies and a use them extensively and I like them and aside for the bolts, the (one some) outboard clutch, and the chain tensioner (on some) being in front, and the lower bearings on some: I like them.
  • I have done a lot of falling
  • I Have torn down and rebuilt saws, likely more than most on here
  • I've learned over the years to ask when in doubt and that has never served me wrong with exception to the wasted time educating some of the morons who are more interested in battling scarecrow arguments than reading and toeing up to me.
 

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