PM Canadien parts

[Bubba Stump]

Sorry for the delay with the pics guys. I havn't used the Nikon Camera in a while and I tried to charge it last night but it never would take a charge. I guess your not supposed to let them run completely out of juice. I had to order a replacement off of ebay. I did however tinker with the powerhead this evening and got it to fire on a prime in the carb. The fuel line was hard as a rock and broke off the inside nipple in the tank. I will have to go get some new line tomorrow along with a filter. All and all it looks like its in fairly decent shape. The full wrap handlebar is a little tweeked but not bad. I think I can bend it back to it's original shape. The crankcase looks good with no bad pitting or deep scratches ect. There is only one bar stud on it and it is toast. there are no threads left for a bar nut. Looks like somebody used a grinder on it. The spot for the other stud looks ok. The threads in the case don't look messed up. I will have to try and remove the other stud to find out what size and thread pitch it is. If anybody knows what studs might work for it let me know. I doubt there are any NOS studs out there that would be easily obtained. It might end up being a job on a machine Lathe, but I have no way of hardening. I guess I could use Chromemolly steel. Maybe other old saw studs would fit but I need to find out what size it is and the TPI. Anyway, just another little update till I can get my camera going.

 

[cbfarmall]

Bar nuts are 3/8 fine thread, I think the case threads are 3/8 coarse. Try threading a bolt in.

 

[Bubba Stump]

Bar nuts are 3/8 fine thread, I think the case threads are 3/8 coarse. Try threading a bolt in.

I just got home from work about an hour ago so I have not checked the threads yet. I will do it here in a few minutes though with a tap and die set. I will check shortly and get back to you.

 

[Bubba Stump]

Bar nuts are 3/8 fine thread, I think the case threads are 3/8 coarse. Try threading a bolt in.

Just checked the front bar stud threads and it is a 3/8-24TPI coarse. you were right, thank you for that. The boogered up stud is the back one and I think I will have to remove the oil pump cover to get the nut off before I can take it out. That's what the Illustrated parts list shows. Do you know of any other chainsaws that have 3/8-24 studs that might fit?

 

[cbfarmall]

Go to an auto parts dealer, check their replacement exhaust studs. I know I just bought fine thread/coarse thread 3/8 studs a month or 2 ago to repair a tractor. You may have to pull the oil tank cover. If I recall, the rear stud has a jam nut there.

 

[cbfarmall]

If you can't find an exhaust stud, get a grade 5 bolt with the right length coarse threads, cut it to length and run a fine thread die down it.

 

[Bubba Stump]

If you can't find an exhaust stud, get a grade 5 bolt with the right length coarse threads, cut it to length and run a fine thread die down it.

I will go to the local NAPA and see what they have in studs. The only other place in town that might have something is Advanced Auto Parts but they usually don't have as good a selection as NAPA. If I can't find any local I will get it off the net.

 

[Bubba Stump]

I got my new camera battery this morning and charged it up. I took some pics for all to see.

 

[Bubba Stump]

 

[Bubba Stump]

 

[Bubba Stump]

 

[Bubba Stump]

I got the bad bar stud off the powerhead, there was a jam nut in the oil reservoir that I had to take off before I could thread the stud out. I found some 3/8"-16 x 3/8"-24 automotive exhaust studs at the local parts store. The Coarse thread side does not go as deep as the original stud but I think I can use a die to thread it longer. There is plenty of blank material in the middle to lengthen the threads to the right length. I also am going to replace the case oil seals and put all new fuel line on it before I try and do any extended running with it.

 

[cbfarmall]

You will have to pull the flywheel case half to get at that seal. You may find, at that point, the main bearings are rough. This would be because PM used shielded bearings not open type. I generally replace the bearings, no shields. More work because you have to pull the top end and rod. Don't lose any rollers. Have a pair of 6203c3 bearings on hand before you do anything. Thank me later.

Chris B.

 

[Bubba Stump]

You will have to pull the flywheel case half to get at that seal. You may find, at that point, the main bearings are rough. This would be because PM used shielded bearings not open type. I generally replace the bearings, no shields. More work because you have to pull the top end and rod. Don't lose any rollers. Have a pair of 6203c3 bearings on hand before you do anything. Thank me later.

Chris B.

Can I take the cylinder off without removing the head? I don't want to have to replace the head gasket, they are not available anywhere.

 

[cbfarmall]

If you can reach all 4 base nuts, sure. I have just used motoseal to reseal these old gaskets. Don't tear them up is all.

Chris B.

 

[Bubba Stump]

If you can reach all 4 base nuts, sure. I have just used motoseal to reseal these old gaskets. Don't tear them up is all.

Chris B.

Motoseal, I will look for it. Thanks for the tips.

 

[cbfarmall]

I just transplanted a piston into this saw. It's all still pretty fresh in my mind.

Chris B.

 

[Bubba Stump]

I just transplanted a piston into this saw. It's all still pretty fresh in my mind.

Chris B.View attachment 762516 View attachment 762517 View attachment 762518

Wow, that's nice. That's the 390, the equivalent to the Skil 1690 right(139cc)?

 

[cbfarmall]

Yes, and I have a 1690 as well.

 

[Bubba Stump]

Did PM Canadien stop at the 390 or did they make a 390+?