Buying a straight gassed saw?

[regulate34]

i came across a 2016 ms362 non m-tronic for sale for a good price.

Saw looks mint. The seller put in a cheap piston and jug and now selling it.

Wonder what the longevity of the bottom end would be on a saw that got straight gassed.

If I do buy it I would probably put a OEM piston and jug back on it.
Maybe try some porting on the cheap jug.

Guy is asking 600$ CAD. They retail new for 1000$ + tax up here.

What do you saw gurus think.

 

[Natster]

750+tax = 825 down here

 

[regulate34]

750+tax = 825 down here

Yeah it’s relative.

After exchange rate it’s the same.

 

[TheTone]

Remember that the bearings also ran without oil and are probably toast. That means figuring in the cost of new bearings and the labor of splitting the case. I would try to get a lower price.

 

[regulate34]

Remember that the bearings also ran without oil and are probably toast. That means figuring in the cost of new bearings and the labor of splitting the case. I would try to get a lower price.

Yeah I was thinking of That. But wasn’t sure how much they could take.

I mean the bottom crank doesn’t get the the fuel burnt out of it. So I dunno.

 

[holeycow]

why would you spend that much money on an abused saw with a cheap top end on it?

Wait for an oem saw. Control yourself. Thats a 3 dressed up as a 9.

Imo.

 

[ken morgan]

why would you spend that much money on an abused saw with a cheap top end on it?

Wait for an oem saw. Control yourself. Thats a 3 dressed up as a 9.

Imo.

Agreed, at least at that price it is

 

[Gord404]

Might look pretty but it's whats inside that counts.

 

[SteveSr]

You also have NO idea the quality of the parts used and the workmanship. Be especially fearful of cheap, poor, or incorrectly installed wrist pin circlips.

 

[SteveH]

Too much $$ for me. Great saws, but I would pass on this one at that price.

 

[Deleted member 117362]

Price of saw you are purchasing, cost of new p/c, case bearings, gaskets, seals and crank if it's bad. Will taking a chance and going upside down be a concern to you? If it was rebuilt with oem parts, different story.

 

[Short timer]

I rebuilt a 660 last year that was straight gassed. There was nothing wrong with the crank or bearings, I was always under the impression that the top end will seize way before any damage occurs to the bearings. Having said that, I did completely tear the saw down and replaced the bearings anyway because I was putting a new OEM cylinder on it that termite buffet (Randy) ported for me and didn’t want to take any chances.

 

[Westboastfaller]

I would throw the engine away.
So basically
I am not going to chance a ported OEM top end on a hot gased bottom end after just losing one. There is an old Wiseman's saying and that is: "Don't chase good money after bad". Another one comes to mind..."don't buy somebody else's headache"

It finally happened to me about 4 yrs back when the helper took the fuel out of my Yamaha Rhino jug. The piston never ceased on that job but after Christmas break, the mains were binding up and stalling the saw out on idle. Maybe it was the piston dragging but the bearing were crunchy.
$600 CND for a saw w/o an OEM engine.
That's the only way I could look at it.

Meaning I would have to cover the cost of an OEM engine.

If it's your saw and you put a cheap top on it then that's different. You are thinking backwards.

 

[stihl86]

I wouldn't be too concerned about the bottom ends of their pro saws from straight gas. Now, a constant supply of sawdust being fed into it for who knows how long is a different story. I would be concerned with what the top end quality is. Along with the work that was done.
Saw is mighty expensive for what it is.

 

[regulate34]

Thanks for all the input guys

I am going to pass on the saw now.

I’m looking for a saw for work. A little smaller then my 460. Last thing I want is a down saw out on the block.

 

[Short timer]

Thanks for all the input guys

I am going to pass on the saw now.

I’m looking for a saw for work. A little smaller then my 460. Last thing I want is a down saw out on the block.

261c-m would compliment that 460 very nicely.

 

[holeycow]

If you are looking for a saw for work, then just bite the bullet and buy a new one.

Or wait patiently for the right used one. Patiently..

And don't pay any attention to color (brand). That will allow a GOOD used saw to come along sooner..

562xp, ms362, CS620 and maybe even some others would all serve you well.

 

[nch209]

Just a tip, and the tip only.................keep searching for used deals. They are out here. Local dude (washington DC CL) last week sold a NEW ms362 w/ es bar for 525, and has now a 362m old style with wrap for 525 buckerrooos. I watch his listings and he moves a ton of stihl stuff, so no red flags or worries I see.... but doubt he ships either. Point is, the deals are out there, if you wish to put on the hunt!

 

[regulate34]

261c-m would compliment that 460 very nicely.

I was looking at a 261.
But I need a 28” bar for work.
When I am slashing I need the reach.
The 261 was so nose heavy and the Oiler won’t keep up.

I only cut 10” and smaller stuff. Might buck the odd thing over that.

 

[regulate34]

If you are looking for a saw for work, then just bite the bullet and buy a new one.

Or wait patiently for the right used one. Patiently..

And don't pay any attention to color (brand). That will allow a GOOD used saw to come along sooner..

562xp, ms362, CS620 and maybe even some others would all serve you well.

The 562 was another one I was looking at. They are over 1lb more then the 362.

So I dunno. With I could buy them all.