What's wrong with me? My chain? My saw? See this dust flying fine as flour?

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You are kind....... I was going to suggest they had been hit with a 4.5"grinding disc!

I always use my die grinder on my rakers and a file and file guide on the teeth. I use the raker gauge to check the height but I do use a die grinder to lower them when needed. I've never had a flat file last very long so I chose the die grinder for the rakers.
 
I always use my die grinder on my rakers and a file and file guide on the teeth. I use the raker gauge to check the height but I do use a die grinder to lower them when needed. I've never had a flat file last very long so I chose the die grinder for the rakers.
That's why I said that suggestion was too kind- I would near put money on the fact those rakers have been hit with an angle grinder!
 
Please tell me you didn't grind that chain to death trying to make all the teeth the same legnth...
That's not the issue here

This was sharpened on an HF grinder . . .
That could be part of the issue . . .

Look at the reflected light off of the top plate edge, side plate edge, and rounded corner (semi-chisel cutter). These indicate that they are not sharp.
Screen shot 2019-09-28 at 8.36.26 PM.png
Compare the depth gauge profiles to the illustration of a new cutter. The high point touches the wood, but if too sharp, or too rough, it can dig in. When cutters get worn, filed, ground back as far as yours are, they might also need additional offset (say 0.030" instead of 0.025"). Some guys will use an angular depth gauge too (e.g 'File-O-Plate' or Husqvarna tool); others will just take a few more swipes with the file. But the profile is important too.

Harbor Freight grinder can be OK for just touching up cutters, but is not a good tool for reshaping them.

Philbert
 
That's not the issue here


That could be part of the issue . . .

Look at the reflected light off of the top plate edge, side plate edge, and rounded corner (semi-chisel cutter). These indicate that they are not sharp.
View attachment 762435
Compare the depth gauge profiles to the illustration of a new cutter. The high point touches the wood, but if too sharp, or too rough, it can dig in. When cutters get worn, filed, ground back as far as yours are, they might also need additional offset (say 0.030" instead of 0.025"). Some guys will use an angular depth gauge too (e.g 'File-O-Plate' or Husqvarna tool); others will just take a few more swipes with the file. But the profile is important too.

Harbor Freight grinder can be OK for just touching up cutters, but is not a good tool for reshaping them.

Philbert

This is after the saw cut a bit in that dead hard maple crotch. So it's duller than when it first came off the grinder. But either that wood didn't want to be cut or that chain wasn't sharp (or both). I don't have a sharp 7/32 file to finish after the grinder so off the grinder is my only choice. I do have an old dull one. Probably would be good enough to touch up the edges after the HF chainsaw sharpener.

I like the HF sharpener on rocked chains (esp full chisel) since it takes forever to get the tooth back 1/32" to a square edge. I usually have results that throw chips though. Maybe the wheel in that sharpener doesn't like 3/8"? Maybe I need to dress or get a new wheel? My tooth length is consistent so I think I apply pressure evenly per tooth.
 
This is after the saw cut a bit in that dead hard maple crotch. So it's duller than when it first came off the grinder. But either that wood didn't want to be cut or that chain wasn't sharp (or both). I don't have a sharp 7/32 file to finish after the grinder so off the grinder is my only choice. I do have an old dull one. Probably would be good enough to touch up the edges after the HF chainsaw sharpener.

I like the HF sharpener on rocked chains (esp full chisel) since it takes forever to get the tooth back 1/32" to a square edge. I usually have results that throw chips though. Maybe the wheel in that sharpener doesn't like 3/8"? Maybe I need to dress or get a new wheel? My tooth length is consistent so I think I apply pressure evenly per tooth.

Yep, because nothing cuts quite like an old dull file.
 
I like the HF sharpener on rocked chains (esp full chisel) since it takes forever to get the tooth back 1/32" to a square edge.

The grinding wheels are of different widths for 3/8 lp, .325, 3/8 and .404. The wrong wheel won’t give correct specs on the cutter.

Th HF grinder only comes with a thin wheel. Most full sized grinders come with different thickness wheels, just like you use different diameter files on different pitch chains. The HF grinder can work, but it has it's limitations. I found that I had to make multiple passes to sharpen each cutter, shape the gullet, etc. Filing after sharpening is another way to grind past damaged areas, then shape and sharpen the cutters.

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/hf-chain-grinder-thread.268303/

Oregon Chain Grinding Angles.png

How were the depth gauges done?

Philbert
 
Yep, because nothing cuts quite like an old dull file.
I hate dull files. Like dull sandpaper - need to get tossed.

I also hate dull grinder wheels, which is why they need to get dressed frequently, to expose fresh abrasive.

Simple, basic things that really help when sharpening!

Philbert
 
Or give it to someone that knows how to file.........

Yep, because nothing cuts quite like an old dull file.

This was done on an HF sharpener. Also it had been run 10 minutes in that dead sugar maple before pic. And no I wasn't saying the dull old 7/32 file was preferable. I said since 3/8" chain is new to me and it's the only 7/32 file I own, maybe it would be enough to pickup where the HF wheel left off. If you have anything constructive or should I say "to add" to the thread please do. I already know there's a problem. Criticism and pointers are welcomed; sarcasm not needed.
 
Someone did a real hack job on the rakers, and the cutters are not much better.

If it was SHTF, a Zombie apocalypse, and the last chain I had, I could spend an hour or more to make it cut, maybe cut decent.

Otherwise, I'd spend $15-25 on a new chain.

P.S. invest in some quality 7/32" , and flat files, and then learn how to use them
 
This was done on an HF sharpener. Also it had been run 10 minutes in that dead sugar maple before pic. And no I wasn't saying the dull old 7/32 file was preferable. I said since 3/8" chain is new to me and it's the only 7/32 file I own, maybe it would be enough to pickup where the HF wheel left off. If you have anything constructive or should I say "to add" to the thread please do. I already know there's a problem. Criticism and pointers are welcomed; sarcasm not needed.

You’ve been given sound advice: take it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
This was done on an HF sharpener. Also it had been run 10 minutes in that dead sugar maple before pic. And no I wasn't saying the dull old 7/32 file was preferable. I said since 3/8" chain is new to me and it's the only 7/32 file I own, maybe it would be enough to pickup where the HF wheel left off. If you have anything constructive or should I say "to add" to the thread please do. I already know there's a problem. Criticism and pointers are welcomed; sarcasm not needed.

You need to get a dressing brick, and dress up the grinder's
wheel too. The face of the chisel should be bright and shiny, and the edge sharp.
 
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