Mastermind Meets The Echo CS-355T

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How did you pull the limiters? Was it easy? Reinstall? I know the 330t has a plate that need to be removed too and hears its a PITA
 
Ok i drilled a 3/8 hole at the bottom of the deflector. Its rev limited about 14100ish and it seem pretty happy about 13800 i had enough to adjust it without removing the limiters.

Randy you're good for something. It know its been a while since you did the 355 i just thought maybe you remembered.
 
mmwwaaahahah TOTALLY unimpressed, the backyard boys are sitting here trying to match the echo as equal or better than the real-deal saws, tellin ya, despite the far-removed-from-the-real-world cookie cutter vids and the clueless clueless backyard crowd like hddnis and co praising what they see on screen, no amount of fiddling the engine will make that 360T clone a better day in day out work saw than the proper pro-husky and stihl alternatives, the echo is overweight, unbalanced and bulky, the ergonomics are crap, the echo bars are as soft as cheese with it, run the echo for a whole day then jump on a 200T for comparison, ha! BIG DIFFERENCE! tellin' ya for a serious pro-user the echo is a cow and always will be, don't be suckered by the echo hype-machine, the echos are just a mediocre product at their very best. NOTHING has changed


Interesting......... like a mosqito/fly that keeps flying into the same damn spot on your skin (or into your ear..) , you wave it off and away - and it returns.. if you wanna win this battle you gotta keep it up about 10, 20, 30 times to gain only a couple of peaceful minutes..
 
Hey everyone I'm new to the site, but not to the scene. I've been climbing with a 200t for over 4 years and 1 year with the 020t both amazing saws! Buttttt....I just bought an 355t and I can honestly say I like the 355t better! It feels more balanced than the 200t and 201t as well as the husky 338xpt and the t540. I got the 355t with a 14" bar for $359 brand new from my local dealer! I plan to get her mastermind moded as soon as Randy is caught up! So all said and done with work done she'll be $650 tops. Now that's what is going to sell this saw! The price point and at stock performance it's only a little behind the big boys.
 
l got a good deal on a NIB Makita 231tes (23cc echo top handle). Echo l believe made this model for Makita as its not in there lineup. lts the same saw as the 26cc top handle 260tes echo. Adjustable oiler, side chain tensioner in a package that weighs 2.5kg (l believe its the lightest saw on market). This saw is great! l have a 201/200t and this little makita can do just about everything the Stihls can with 40% less wieght. I would not hesitate to buy another echo product, this saw is the first two cycle l've owned that will cold start on 1 pull. The only things it lacks is a proper air filter, adjustable carb and a little dawg to ptotect the saw. lt retails for about one third of the cost of a 201t/540t. l will buy more echo saws...they are darn good units.
 
There are some a--holes for sure. I'm tearing down a cs-2511t now. The one I got running/stock impressed me. Go thread.
 
Figured bumping this would be better than starting anew..

Just got a new 355t last week and am almost "relieved" to know there's not "MS-201t level" gains to be had from porting the block (or rather, that porting is almost nullified by the fixed compression level inherent to the block's design) because I probably wouldn't be happy til I'd had them done :p

In approaching the basic mods I realized I haven't found a solid answer to an important Q here-- Is all exhaust back-pressure decreasing perfomance? Or is a >0 level of back-pressure desirable? I know most vehicles scavenge exhaust gases and simply removing pipes can make them less powerful but on these lil 2-strokes I'd imagine 0 backpressure is the optimal, wanted to ask before modifying my muffler! (well, before modifying it further-- the muff's intake-port had a slightly tighter circumference than the block's exhaust-outlet, I couldn't believe it but measured like 10X before grinding/deburring like 1mm from the perimeter of the muff's intake-port, was a "lip" the exhaust gases had a pass but not any longer!)
I like the "piped" style like:
355t muff mod muffler plate porting.png
but that ^ would be sub-optimal if all backpressure = bad, as that hole is definitely smaller than the block's outlet port and, if anything, you'd want a larger exit-port on the muffler to reduce the back-pressure induced by turbulence in that box.

Am also verrrry interested in what appears to just be an "air restricting plate":
air plate.jpg

Saw a guy on youtube who, during his 2yr-review on this saw, talked about how he'd removed his and that + MM really woke it up.... Have to wonder at your thoughts on removing that plate @Mastermind Worksaws as I didn't see you removing it on the 355t you began the thread with...honestly it's as-if Echo set it up so you can spend 10min and just pull-off the exhaust's plate (the one over the arrester screen), pull off this air-restricter plate, pull-out the limiters so you can up the fuel to match your new "increased throughput" configuration and you're off!

Thanks a ton for any insight, also for any suggestions on chains (I'm happy with the 6-tooth, 3/8 sprockets all my saws have but every chain I own is some Oregon "green label", or Echo standard chain which is "green label" so far as I can tell...only problem is I can't name anything besides Oregon VXL's that're a good "non safety-chain" for use here, any specific suggestions would be greatly appreciated!)
 

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