How to make SuperSplit engage for full stroke after releasing the lever?

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sevensandeights

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I picked up a used SS this past weekend and can't wait to starting using it! I've played around a little and everything appears to work well. It's the HD model with the Honda engine. Built in 2017 and used for one season with roughly 35 cords put through it.

Some of the YouTube videos I have watched show the carriage continuing to come forward for a full stroke even after the engagement lever is released (allowed to fall down). Mine does not do this - as soon as I let go of the lever, the carriage retracts no matter how far out it is. In addition, if I hold the lever up the carriage will go forward all the way to the wedge. I put a 1/2" piece of OSB in front of the wedge and the carriage hits it if I keep the lever up. Should't the carriage stop about an 1" short of the wedge no matter what?

Any thoughts?
 
I would say it is working properly, but call SuperSplit to be sure.
One thing you can check is the lock nut on the handle.
There should be some play in the handle, and 1/8" maybe at most, but some play.
The lock nut should not be tightened down to the handle.
At 35 cord you will have to put some more hours on it to rub the paint off the wedge and table.
There are grease zerks on each side for the flywheel bearings.
 
Thanks for the tips. I'll check that nut for sure.

I don't care too much about having to hold the lever up during the entire forward stroke but I would like to make sure the ram doesn't hit the wedge.
 
Called the SuperSplit folks and they were happy to help me even though I bought the unit used.

He made 2 suggestions:
1.) Make sure there is a little play between the engagement lever and the top nut. I think Crane said the same thing above.

2.) The hole in the engagement handle that the threaded rod goes through is slotted. Not sure if this is on purpose or a wear related issue. Regardless, the threaded rod needs to be at the rear of this hole (closer to the engine). There is a small piece of metal that helps guide the engagement rod - this was wallowed out a little (see pic) so I bent it towards the engine per SS's suggestion. This fixed the problem immediately.
 

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Sevensandeights, greatly appreciate your sharing.
My guide is worn in a heart shape. This is because I use the machine equally on both sides, and when lifting the handle I must be exerting side force on the handle and rod. I ordered new engagement parts and put them on the shelf for when I need them.
So far I have not needed them, but here are photos.

IMG_3431.jpg IMG_3434.jpg IMG_4068.jpg IMG_4073.jpg IMG_4071.jpg IMG_1884.jpg IMG_1882.jpgIMG_1883.jpg
 
I wanted to go back and embed my photo into my post (since the photo is now hosted by this site) but I don't see an edit button. Any suggestions?

NOTE: I posted this response and there is an edit button for it but still no edit button for my other posts in the same thread?!?!
 
used one for over 10 years. don't think twice about the small ware at the lift rod hole its nothing. You definitely want the cams to disengage when you let go of the handle. Its not safe to have it set up to complete a stroke when you let go. think about getting bit -- if it ever happens you will be glad you did not have to push the handle down to stop the stroke
 
I wanted to go back and embed my photo into my post (since the photo is now hosted by this site) but I don't see an edit button. Any suggestions?

NOTE: I posted this response and there is an edit button for it but still no edit button for my other posts in the same thread?!?!


The edit feature is removed after a period of time. I don't know why.
 
Called the SuperSplit folks and they were happy to help me even though I bought the unit used.

He made 2 suggestions:
1.) Make sure there is a little play between the engagement lever and the top nut. I think Crane said the same thing above.

2.) The hole in the engagement handle that the threaded rod goes through is slotted. Not sure if this is on purpose or a wear related issue. Regardless, the threaded rod needs to be at the rear of this hole (closer to the engine). There is a small piece of metal that helps guide the engagement rod - this was wallowed out a little (see pic) so I bent it towards the engine per SS's suggestion. This fixed the problem immediately.
 
The ram should not make contact with the wedge. As you noted, there should be an inch or so between them at the furthest out point. Did the person before you modify the wedge?

As for the lever, as soon as you let it go it should return, if it doesn't that's a real safety issue. If you noticed something at the last second like someones hand, a piece of metal in the wood, a gnarly knot, etc. and it didn't stop, it could be disastrous.
 
As for the lever, as soon as you let it go it should return, if it doesn't that's a real safety issue. If you noticed something at the last second like someones hand, a piece of metal in the wood, a gnarly knot, etc. and it didn't stop, it could be disastrous.
The SS is not designed to function with the lever held on to. You pull up & let go. When the ram gets close to the wedge it automatically stops and retracks. This all happens in less than 2 seconds. Pulling up on the lever when the ram cycles can cause problems.
 
When mine does this it’s either the belts are too tight or the old engagement lever.

I modified mine so I wack it to engage as the original way to engage the ram hurt my shoulder after a day of running it.
 
The SS is not designed to function with the lever held on to. You pull up & let go. When the ram gets close to the wedge it automatically stops and retracks. This all happens in less than 2 seconds. Pulling up on the lever when the ram cycles can cause problems.
Sunfish, Thank you for confirming that the handle is to be pulled up and let go. There seems to be quite the controversy about this. Once I loosened the lever nut on my SS it works as advertised. I just put my unit together a couple of days ago so I am still learning about this SS. This site has been extremely helpful and appreciate all of the feedback.
 

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