038 -- Chain smoking. Bar hot. Oiler seems to work but chain is dry.

[Mad Professor]

A hammer and a steel rod - piece of cake, but you have to split the case and do it from the inside...

Some stihls you can drive into, the case, and take out through fill hole, others as You say drive from inside.

But, spliting the case is a bit of work........

Other method is to pry out. Or drill a hole, then thread in a screw, and use a slide hammer.

 

[buttercup]

Some stihls you can drive into, the case, and take out through fill hole, others as You say drive from inside.

But, spliting the case is a bit of work........

Other method is to pry out. Or drill a hole, then thread in a screw, and use a slide hammer.

That sound reasonable to try before taking it all apart, still learning...

 

[777funk]

I believe I found the problem (but not the cause).

For some reason, the bar and cover are getting plugged with chips/dust. If I run the saw in a cut it will smoke. If I pull the bar out of the cut and fling for oil at a dry log top, I get nothing for a minute, next I get big chunks of sawdust, lastly, I get oil slinging like I'd hope for. But it takes long enough for this to happen that I can tell there's a plugging problem.

Where do I look?

 

[Mad Professor]

Two more things to check.

Is there any signs that the pump itself is leaking? You need to take off the cover around the clutch off. The pump has a seal underneath the drive gear and two o-rings inside, pump mounts on a gasket to the case. Worn pump body and/or piston can cause leaks. You'd see oil seeping out bottom if this is the case, even with cover on.

Is the inner sideplate for the bar/bar cover there? Fits over the studs and held on with a screw

 

[Justsaws]

Used motor oil and a hard tip bar is going to smoke unless that chain is sharp and the sprocket and bar are in great shape. That is an unforgiving setup on a saw with decent chain speed.

0-20 synthetic, instant smoke bomb in the flea market saw finds.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Is it even the correct bar mount to suit the saw? Does the hole in the bar even line up with the oil outlet?
Sounds like a combination of worn parts, suspect oil, possible incorrect parts and possible misalignment as much as failing to deliver oil.
Although in saying that- hissing when opening the filler cap is never a good thing to hear.

 

[SteveSr]

Some stihls you can drive into, the case, and take out through fill hole, others as You say drive from inside.

But, spliting the case is a bit of work........

Other method is to pry out. Or drill a hole, then thread in a screw, and use a slide hammer.

You're all working too hard! These don't really go bad... but occasionally get stopped up. With the tank empty and the cap off or loose just shoot some carb cleaner through the valve from the outside in. You should see/hear it come into the tank. Problem solved. I do this with all of the saws that I rebuild.

 

[Mad Professor]

You're all working too hard! These don't really go bad... but occasionally get stopped up. With the tank empty and the cap off or loose just shoot some carb cleaner through the valve from the outside in. You should see/hear it come into the tank. Problem solved. I do this with all of the saws that I rebuild.

Done that but it don't work every time. Certainly try that first.

 

[SteveSr]

Done that but it don't work every time. Certainly try that first.

You can also take the end of a paperclip and push on the valve, again from the outside. It is a spring loaded aluminum disc so you shouldn't be able to hurt it with a paperclip end. This may displace enough crud out of the way on the inside to allow the carb cleaner to flush the remaining crud out. A working valve should depress with the paperclip and then spring back closed when released.

 

[777funk]

Is it even the correct bar mount to suit the saw? Does the hole in the bar even line up with the oil outlet?
Sounds like a combination of worn parts, suspect oil, possible incorrect parts and possible misalignment as much as failing to deliver oil.
Although in saying that- hissing when opening the filler cap is never a good thing to hear.

It matches up.. However... The oil holes go through both sides of the bar. It looks factory, but shouldn't the oil hole be only on the side facing the oiler (not all the way through to the other side of the bar? My other two good saws have only a hole by the oiler side (not through).

 

[MartDalb]

We need pictures!

air valve, chain, bar, inside of oil chamber, the more pics the better.

Did some work on my own Stihl 260, with oiling issues.
LONG story short. It was oiling, but badly.
Cleaned everything!
Replaced oiler with new, used one, in this case from non pro to pro model.
Replaced air valve, at the oiling output, easy work takes a few min.
Cleaned again, oil filter, hose, hose from pump to oil output, bar etc.

It now oils, and oils alot.
My best bet is that the oiler was giving oil, but poorly.
They get worn, dirty, clogged up.
Replace if needed, its easy and cheap.

 

[Ginger15]

It matches up.. However... The oil holes go through both sides of the bar. It looks factory, but shouldn't the oil hole be only on the side facing the oiler (not all the way through to the other side of the bar? My other two good saws have only a hole by the oiler side (not through).

There should be a thin metal bar plate that goes against the bar which keeps the oil from passing all the way through.

 

[Teemore]

As far as I am aware only early 038s had a second bar plate that was secured to the clutch cover. LAter saws only had a single bar plate secured to the saw casing and partially covering the oiler hole. I wonder if one of the nylon "gears" that take drive from the crank to the oiler are worn and slipping. This would be very unusual. I've pulled apart and rebuilt a few 038 Supers and the oil pumps and gears have been fine even where parts of the bottom of the saw case were worn through from use. Try another bar on the saw before you replace anything.

 

[777funk]

Thanks. There is the bar plate (on the chain cover plate if I recall) but I don't know how well mine seals the other side. It looks a little wavy. I will check over the whole oiling system now that I have a better idea of what's in there. Thanks for all the tips and diagrams! Helps a ton! Never have had to deal with the oil system on a saw before.

The gears look good. Pulled the clutch a few weeks ago.

 

[777funk]

Ok... Here's what I have. It looks like lots of oil slung in the chain cover. I took one picture after cleaning. I don't know the 038, but it looks complete to me...

 

[Mad Professor]

That is one dirty dawg!

Have you cleaned the rest of the saw up yet? Good chance oil tank vent is plugged.

Is inside of tank filthy too?

 

[777funk]

That is one dirty dawg!

Have you cleaned the rest of the saw up yet? Good chance oil tank vent is plugged.

Is inside of tank filthy too?

Inside, strainer, and vent are good. It has a LOT of oil in the chain cover plate. Looks like the chain slings it mixed with dust in there. Going to try a different bar.

 

[Mad Professor]

Is the chain in the condition of the one you posted of your other saw?

Chain should be throwing chips, not "dust". If chain is that dull it won't cut and you will smoke/overheat the bar.

Lets see the chain and bar.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Is the chain in the condition of the one you posted of your other saw?

Chain should be throwing chips, not "dust". If chain is that dull it won't cut and you will smoke/overheat the bar.

Lets see the chain and bar.

True, but it sounds like he may have been trying to rip (noodle I think you guys call it) down through the face cut of a log section, not kicking it over and ripping from the bark edge with the spurs in the face cut?

 

[buttercup]

Ok... Here's what I have. It looks like lots of oil slung in the chain cover. I took one picture after cleaning. I don't know the 038, but it looks complete to me...

The service routine is way underestimated...