Vermeer SC252 problem

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inter_e

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Hello guys and girls, This is my first post in this section and hopefully someone on here will be able to help me out. I got a non running Vermeer SC252 from a guy that owed me some money and have been working on it. It sat out on his farm for years and I have been going through it and trying to get it functioning properly. I got it running nicely and all of the functions work except I can't get the teeth to spin when I flip the switch. It is a new switch but I have never worked on these before and I am kind of stuck without a manual on where I am supposed to be sending power for it to engage? Anyone who has worked on these have any ideas???

When I jump power to the Clutch it engages and spins so I believe that my buddy replaced the switch wrong and it is not sending power to the clutch. Can anyone take a picture of the back of the switch wiring, so I can see how it is supposed to be wired? This or a wiring diagram of the switch??
 
Hey I’m no expert with these but I own a 2012 252. Mine has operator presence system on it and will not operate the wheel unless I am physically in contact with the hydraulic levers.

One way I suppose one could tell if there’s was new enough to have it is the two lights near the levers, the top one is on for operator presence, and the other comes on when you are touching a lever(top light on)and switch the wheel on.

Maybe that’s all it is. I can snap a pic if you need it.
 
Also can likely tell by the levers. Mine have a rubber coating the drive wheel one pretty worn off. The older ones I think are hard plastic.
 
Here is a picture of the way my switch is wired and the type of switch. I asked my buddy if he was sure he wired it exactly as the old one was and he siad no he wasn't cause he had a friend helping him who was supposedly a mechanic. I think it is not wired properly. Any help please???IMG_4513 2 jpeg.jpg IMG_1633 2 jpeg.jpg
 
Here is a picture of the way my switch is wired and the type of switch. I asked my buddy if he was sure he wired it exactly as the old one was and he siad no he wasn't cause he had a friend helping him who was supposedly a mechanic. I think it is not wired properly. Any help please???View attachment 764683 View attachment 764684
I do not think a picture of mine would help as I have operator presence. Mine is a momentary on or off then it goes back to the middle and stays there even when the wheel is on. I can take a picture in the morning if you like when I get off from my full time. Not sure how helpful it would be.
 
Thank you and maybe I can figure out the right wiring from yours. Your awesome for trying!
 
Thank you and maybe I can figure out the right wiring from yours. Your awesome for trying!
So this is what I have. It does look different. I almost forgot, it got so late. I had to re tension my belts and stuff when I got home too. Now it’s a short nap then get up and get ready for tomorrow’s job. 18 stumps. Think it’ll be two days. Sorry I’m not more help.

I shoudlve take ln a picture of the outside too but I’m in bed now. It’s a three position momentary switch. Or maybe it’s two positions. Up is on but it falls back to the middle and wheel stays on as long as your hands are on the lever. Down shuts the wheel off. In my photo white wire is down side and the lighter red/pink is the top sdue(wheel on).
 

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what color wires go to your clutch, black and ??? Wow 18 stumps, how much do you charge per stump or size? I am just getting started here in Mid-Missouri and want to be fair?
 
what color wires go to your clutch, black and ??? Wow 18 stumps, how much do you charge per stump or size? I am just getting started here in Mid-Missouri and want to be fair?

Black & White. Both solid.

Here in Western MA(not the stupid expensive area near Boston but not low side ether) I go with 3-5 dollars per inch of the grind circle. Generally. And I tell people that. It keeps us on the same page and paints a clear picture for the customer. The biggest variance is level of cleanup. Leave it, move it, haul it off. What do I have to do with debris. Unless it’s tiny tiny stump or an “in town” job I don’t show up for less than $100, generally.

Get a $90 POS Poulan somewhere and cut anything you can low low to the ground, you don’t have to care about the saw much, it’s a Poulan. Saves grind time and lots of cleanup time. Get a bigger saw when you can, you will find big tree companies that don’t get the grind job sometimes leave them really high in the hopes they get called back. You’ll be able to cut them low instead of turn them away cause of our small machine. I’d switch to green teeth when I can or this winter and do the hydro pump upgrade if your going to stump with a 252. I like mine. The 252s are clearly outdated but the few things others and I have done puts us not to far behind these very very expensive machibe they have now. Theres an excellent thread on the upgrades here. You should go read it 3 times when you can.

I gotta go load up for that job. Let me know if and when you get it working. You can call me sometime if you want and I’ll tell you what I’ve learned in the last two years on mine. A guy who owned 6 of those machines did that for me, I’d be happy to pay it forward.
 
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